In thinking more about this, I wonder if your dealer is simply going by the dealer product sheet? If that's the case that's probably the reason he said no because I believe (Mike can probably confirm) that all the different connector options aren't listed, the dealers have to inquire about that and maybe he just doesn't know. In Canada for example the rep for the dealers is Plurison. I looked at Siltech's website and the rep in Australia for the dealers is Absolute High End. I know my dealer had to check with Plurison when I ordered my Golden Ridge II and even the Ruby Hill II and that's what happened with my 330i's.
Siltech Royal Signature Series
- Thread starter Mike
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In thinking more about this, I wonder if your dealer is simply going by the dealer product sheet? If that's the case that's probably the reason he said no because I believe (Mike can probably confirm) that all the different connector options aren't listed, the dealers have to inquire about that and maybe he just doesn't know. In Canada for example the rep for the dealers is Plurison. I looked at Siltech's website and the rep in Australia for the dealers is Absolute High End. I know my dealer had to check with Plurison when I ordered my Golden Ridge II and even the Ruby Hill II and that's what happened with my 330i's.
Oh you lucky bugger, being able to use 1.5m for Princess cables, I envy that
I'll need a bloody 4m minimum when I make the purchase for my Bryston 28's, potentially even 5m 
1.5m should just do it on risers. The WW Platinum is 2m on risers and they overshoot on the bend up to the amps.
Oh...Don't let me sweat on it!
anic: I'm hoping the bend radius isn't going to kill me.
@Mike....What is the bend radius like on the Princess XLRs? I'm thinking I'm going to be ok on the upward bend on the bulk and the ends will loop over ok into the MC2301s and will help the cable drop. Similarly out of the pre-amps.
Oh...Don't let me sweat on it!
anic: I'm hoping the bend radius isn't going to kill me.@Mike....What is the bend radius like on the Princess XLRs? I'm thinking I'm going to be ok on the upward bend on the bulk and the ends will loop over ok into the MC2301s and will help the cable drop. Similarly out of the pre-amps.
That's certainly a valid question Steve. Siltech's heft can make bending tricky in close quarters. My BDP-2 is sitting just 2 shelves above my MC-12 in my rack so I figured 1m was a good length for my Golden Ridge II. Well it just barely works. The thing that was almost an issue was not only does the cable have to bend from one component to the other it also needed to twist a bit so that the XLR's lined up for insertion. If for example the cable was say 0.75m I wouldn't have been able to pull both the bend and twist off.
Rod... I did also order a 0.75m Princess for source which is 2 shelves above the pre-amp I wish to use also. Shelves are 180mm each. I have had the tape measure out and would be shocked if bends and twists take up more than 100mm on each end.
Went with 1.5m on GRII AES/EBU as it is on a different rack. This cable can be hidden as it straddles across and downwards.
My experience with the Ruby Mountain II is that they require quite a bend radius but they do drop easily on their ends. They work great on the MC2301s. Much better than those unshielded Shunyata Anaconda power cables I tried which were very difficult to work with, :shudder: the thought.
Hope I have it right as the non-refundable deposit goes down on Monday.
Every 0.5m costs practically more than its weight in gold for this stuff. :disbelief:
Went with 1.5m on GRII AES/EBU as it is on a different rack. This cable can be hidden as it straddles across and downwards.
My experience with the Ruby Mountain II is that they require quite a bend radius but they do drop easily on their ends. They work great on the MC2301s. Much better than those unshielded Shunyata Anaconda power cables I tried which were very difficult to work with, :shudder: the thought.
Hope I have it right as the non-refundable deposit goes down on Monday.
Every 0.5m costs practically more than its weight in gold for this stuff. :disbelief:
0.75 might be tight. After work I'll measure the vertical distance between the XLR connectors on my BDP-2 and MC-12 so you'll know at least how much space I had to deal with using a 1m cable. That might help get a better sense for your setup. I'll take a pic of the back (side on) as well so you can see how much bend there is in the cable over that distance.
Given the weight alone of these cables I hope all your connectors on your gear are well built.
Yeah it's crazy that the thought of only 0.5m can send chills down a persons spine. Getting the price for my 330i's was nuts because it was ok, lets take the base price which is 2m then take the 0.5m price and now times that by 24. Almost makes you want to puke.
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- #108
measure twice, cut once fellows.
- Thread Author
- #112
Nice Rod! You have a little slack there, but not worth risking it. You also never know, you may want to move some pieces around.
Golucid
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I see that some very costly cable is looping and connecting equipment - from my reading today, Siltech is one of the Rolls Royce of cables, yes? Thinking of point to point and where signal originates and all the hops paths thus it must make though the signal delivery process. Is it possible to populate the wire inside the chassis at the same level of these cables? How about the wiring from speaker posts to the crossover boards/all wire inside the speaker box. Obviously the lines inside the machines are not nearly at perfect as the cable lines outside the chassis. I would wonder if the cable/wiring inside these boxes to be poor, maybe?
Yes a few cables are looping, the larger one on the floor would be my Kimber PK Gold and I've got a couple Kimber HDMI cables looping behind the tv plus all 3 of my subwoofer cables are as well. I've yet to experience any adverse affects of looping cables, particularly power cables as those are the ones you often hear people saying to avoid looping. I think it all comes down to how well the cables are insulated and shielded.
Golucid
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I am interested as to how you address the wiring inside the equipment chassis and speaker boxes themselves. Should not the wiring inside the equipment be in par with the wiring on the outside connecting devices? Inside the equipment: "Cheap parts & wiring, lack of any internal shielding, attenuation or dampening of radio frequency & electromagnetic radiation."
I located a company just moments ago called THE UPGRADE COMPANY They state:
"Stock mass-produced audio or video equipment even at the very highest price levels and magazine hype, never satisfies long term because it is contaminated with radio frequencies and low frequency electro magnetic radiation from within itself and right out of the airwaves that are all around us, unless it has been upgraded By The Upgrade Company."
"In short, here's what's going on with all stock audio or video equipment:
Cheap parts & wiring, lack of any internal shielding, attenuation or dampening of radio frequency & electromagnetic radiation. Naked wiring, naked parts, naked circuit boards. All metal attracts & collects radio frequencies ruining performance in all brands of Hi-Fi & Video. Try a piece of fish string or kite line for an antenna - it won't work at all. Only metal conductors collect radio frequencies. That means that all of the wiring, metal leads on parts, metal circuit traces inside DAC's, video scalers, op-amps etc. all parts inside all brands of HiFi & video are in fact collecting radio frequencies millions of times per second severely compromising both audio & video performance. The Upgrade Company is the only consumer electronics company effectively dealing with this issue.
Every electronic part and wire in the signal path can be thought of as an interconnect, and every electronic part and wire in the power supply can be thought of as a power cord. Our upgrades are in essence replacing a high number of interconnects and power cords within your components AND shielding & dissipating them! The effects are remarkable. Far greater then replacing the interconnects and power cords OUTSIDE the components.
The finest most expensive medical, military, aerospace and commercial telecom equipment and space satellites are extensively shielded inside to preserve and maintain absolute signal fidelity and not waste power supply energy. However consumer electronics have NEVER been RFI Ridded until The Upgrade Company pioneered this technology in consumer electronics back in 1980, more then 33 years ago."
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- #116
David - wiring inside = VERY short = doesn't make a HUGE difference. Plus, what brand they use is confidential. I know that Franco Serblin of Sonus Faber used Yter cable inside his speakers (http://www.laboratorium-yter.com/en/introduzione.html).
I know some manufacturers use Straight Wire. I've heard of others using Nordost and Transparent. Many other too.
With PCB based amps, the curiosity for what cable is inside diminishes. For SET's and specific speakers, some are curious.
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I know some manufacturers use Straight Wire. I've heard of others using Nordost and Transparent. Many other too.
With PCB based amps, the curiosity for what cable is inside diminishes. For SET's and specific speakers, some are curious.
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Golucid
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Mike, if you pop open the top of any of our McIntosh equipment, the wiring looks stock cheap. Example, The MB100 cable inside is utter junk. I opened the MCD1100 and it too has what appears typical homedepot looking wire. The Upgrade Website does have a plethora of blurbs stating that since the upgrade, performance is more music, refined, detailed...and a host of other favorable adjectives. Thought, the wiring that links the board to the connector posts. Seems like that would be a good thing, yes? Would it be even more sensitive to properly wire and shield the wiring with pre-amps, CD players and well as digital file players?
Imagine your component internal wiring that of Siltech. That would excite you!
bzr
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Mike got the Prince speaker cables, Princess i/c & Anniversary phono have been in the system for awhile now.
Steve I have WW Plat 7 & the Princess is not nearly as accommodating to bend but as you mentioned, the ends are more resilient & do give some. For me I always bought .8m i/c but now I'll never buy anything under 1.5m.1.5m should just do it on risers. The WW Platinum is 2m on risers and they overshoot on the bend up to the amps.
Oh...Don't let me sweat on it!
@Mike....What is the bend radius like on the Princess XLRs? I'm thinking I'm going to be ok on the upward bend on the bulk and the ends will loop over ok into the MC2301s and will help the cable drop. Similarly out of the pre-amps.
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- #119
Congrats Kev! That's the same as mine. LOVE them!!
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Easy answer, I don't address it because any meddling with the internals of electronics, speakers, etc. would instantly void the warranty. Audiophiles can certainly be categorized as an odd bunch because so much money is spent on the external cabling and rarely is the internal component aspect addressed which gets to your point. I'm always of the assumption that all internal wiring is inexpensive but nothing can be done about it because of the warranty issue. However the engineers could argue all wiring is sufficient in gauge and shielding to perform the job at hand and any talk or attempt to use heavy duty after market products, with ultra shielding, etc. is just snake oil and will serve no additional purpose other than to help empty ones pocketbook
I just look at it all as a fun hobby and spend money on what I like to and what I can control. Internal wiring I see as something I can't control.