Left the Nords playing all day while at work and they already sound better than they did yesterday. Although the stock binding posts were just fine for my cables I couldn't resist switching them out for a set of WBT's I had laying around...
Sweet!
Nord One Up Ncore NC500 amps, Class D ready for prime time .....
- Thread starter joeinid
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Sweet!
Jack
Active member
MikeCh
Those T6s binding posts from Via Blue look like a really good substitute if you can get them for a decent price.
Those T6s binding posts from Via Blue look like a really good substitute if you can get them for a decent price.
Left the Nords playing all day while at work and they already sound better than they did yesterday. Although the stock binding posts were just fine for my cables I couldn't resist switching them out for a set of WBT's I had laying around...
Yeah, great job. Is it a drop in replacement without soldering ? Do you notice any change in sound ?
tomy2
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The post on the WBT is fairly big compared to the stock and though the spade connector was a nice 3/8 wide it didn't fit. So I snipped the spades off and soldered the wire to the posts. The stock posts had room to spare with the spades as you see in the pic. So assuming all the amps Colin puts out have the same size spade connectors you can change the binding posts out if they aren't wider than 3/8, which I think is equivalent to around 9.5mm. The smaller the diameter the better. Probably best to open the top and see what size spade you got.
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tomy2
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As far as sound goes it's hard to say. When I got home today I did notice there was better definition and detail but that could be just from them being on all night and playing music all day today. I got the WBT's from Parts Connexion at a good price. The signature gold 0730.11 are usually $350 for a set of 4 but they had them on sale for $150. They got the Vampire and Cardas for good prices too and those might fit the spade connectors much better.
Thanks tomy. Yes, it difficult to judge when the gear is fresh and still breaking in. One of the reason why I do these tweaks only after the break-in period.
I played the PAD break-in cd couple of times in a loop since yesterday and the sound have opened up quiet a bit. Its getting better....
On the fuse front - I am thinking of getting either the SR black or AH Platinum. I had the SR Red in my DAC but the AH Platinum beat to it. I don't know how much better the SR Black compared to Red is.
On the fuse front - I am thinking of getting either the SR black or AH Platinum. I had the SR Red in my DAC but the AH Platinum beat to it. I don't know how much better the SR Black compared to Red is.
tomy2
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I think the SR Black is much better than the Red. The Red sounds thin and bright compared to the Black, it would interesting if you get both the SR Black and AH Platinum to compare...Depending on which op amp you got in the Nords might determine which fuse sounds best.
a.wayne
Well-known member
could you guys give us an Idea what you are driving load wise with the Nords ...
Mine is 6 Ohms nominal.
Yeah, I think you are right on the fuse and opamp combo. My gut feeling tells me that SI will match better with the AH and Sparkos will do better with the SR. I would like to make this comparison only after the amp settles down, which is going to take some time I guess.
Hey guys,
Because the amps change a little (+\-) sound quality over the first few hundred hours break-in.... you might be better off trying your tweaks after the break-in process. The tweaks may well work out just fine but could give false-positive's (or negatives ) early on in the process.
Because the amps change a little (+\-) sound quality over the first few hundred hours break-in.... you might be better off trying your tweaks after the break-in process. The tweaks may well work out just fine but could give false-positive's (or negatives ) early on in the process.
I agree.
Between, typically how long does it take for the Nords to fully burn in ? Mine has been 3 days running continuously playing music.
boggit
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I try not to specify a burn in period as this could be construed as marketing bull or an excuse! I also probably don't have a unit with a 1000 hours on! As my rig kind of gets used for developments etc. and change things around on it.
This is an extract from a customer email which may help.
"In fact, the 500 hour mark is when the amp really shows its capabilities in soundstage, bass definition and dimensionality. At the 1000 hour mark the bass really comes together in terms of pitch, definition, slam and air. Low-end detail and impact has improved immensely --the difference between dropping a mallet on a spongy surface and a hard solid surface where the impact is not only heard but has a more visceral punch!"
"PS: it may be a help to new owners if you advise them that the amps do continue to "develop" beyond the 500 hour mark of continuous input through about 900 hours or so where patience is rewarded with exceptional sound quality at a price that defies convention. Truth be told, they really are quite good after a week of burn in!"
This is an extract from a customer email which may help.
"In fact, the 500 hour mark is when the amp really shows its capabilities in soundstage, bass definition and dimensionality. At the 1000 hour mark the bass really comes together in terms of pitch, definition, slam and air. Low-end detail and impact has improved immensely --the difference between dropping a mallet on a spongy surface and a hard solid surface where the impact is not only heard but has a more visceral punch!"
"PS: it may be a help to new owners if you advise them that the amps do continue to "develop" beyond the 500 hour mark of continuous input through about 900 hours or so where patience is rewarded with exceptional sound quality at a price that defies convention. Truth be told, they really are quite good after a week of burn in!"