New Vintage Audio Restoration HQ

[Michaels HiFi]

Just uploaded this short vid.

Since this video was made I've since learned new techniques and have refinished the faceplate to be significantly nicer while keeping all the delicate gold silk screening lettering safe.

The material of the faceplate itself is very sensitive and even just using a normal liquid cleaner usually scratches it more than it cleans it. I've since learned the way to over come that which requires no magical unicorn fairy dust.

These old restoration videos usually draw virtually no audience compared to normal topics, but I don't care, I do them for my enjoyment. The advantages to not monetizing the content or getting paid like others do is I get to make the content I want to make - not what I'm paid to say and do.

 

[2FarGone]

Just uploaded this short vid.

Since this video was made I've since learned new techniques and have refinished the faceplate to be significantly nicer while keeping all the delicate gold silk screening lettering safe.

The material of the faceplate itself is very sensitive and even just using a normal liquid cleaner usually scratches it more than it cleans it. I've since learned the way to over come that which requires no magical unicorn fairy dust.

These old restoration videos usually draw virtually no audience compared to normal topics, but I don't care, I do them for my enjoyment. The advantages to not monetizing the content or getting paid like others do is I get to make the content I want to make - not what I'm paid to say and do.

Very nice finger jointing on the case - it wasn’t noticeable until you refinished it. I also notice the care with which you tightened the screws to make sure they were all evenly torqued.

 

[Michaels HiFi]

Very nice finger jointing on the case - it wasn’t noticeable until you refinished it. I also notice the care with which you tightened the screws to make sure they were all evenly torqued.

Thanks - yeah my OCD always kicks in on that stuff.

I just conducted an experiment using an old tube tester case to try 19 different finishes (beyond what I did last week) and better understand how each one looks, when one is more appropriate than another, and to better understand how different classes of finishes GENERALLY react.

There is one big generalization I can say even though there are many different sub-results for each kind of finish: oil, hard wax oil, shellac varieties, one-step, and water based: In all instances water based was FAR behind even the lowest performing of the other kinds.

Unless you live in one of the states that bans most wood finishes such as Kali requiring you to use water based, I don't know why you'd choose it. Actually I take that back: a year ago I would not have noticed a difference like I do now on the finishes, and the low odor and fast dry time of water based is a bonus. But boy, once you know what you are looking at do they finish really low compared to others.

He are some pics of the tests. Although the pictures don't show it, there is a dramatic difference in overall color tone (some gold, some amber, some hard brown etc), grain accentuation, grain depth, sheen and feel. Even the wife was amazed at the differences.

In all instances (I tried them multiple times in a variety of ways) there top 4-5 winners were the same.

Also the last pic is a product from CarPro called Pearl which I am not impressed by. Note all the pro-level stuff comes as concentrates so you can mix custom ratio's to your need. CarPro is a brand that many seem to love, though I've tried numerous of their products and always found them to be merely "good" - but never great. There are so many better options I have in all the categories I've compared them in.

So yet another one (CarPro Pearl) headed for the trash bin.

 

[Michaels HiFi]

I tried something new on this old 90 year old leather handle.

I cleaned it (VERY carefully as it disintegrates with too much pressure), added leather oil to add back some moisture, then (the new step) of rather than simply waxing, I used a black wax to see if I could return some of the color to it.

I didn't want it too look 'too good', but rather simply 'better'.

I'm also changing up some of the leather products I've been using. I use products from the high-end horse saddle industry.

 

[atmasphere]

I tried something new on this old 90 year old leather handle.

I cleaned it (VERY carefully as it disintegrates with too much pressure), added leather oil to add back some moisture, then (the new step) of rather than simply waxing, I used a black wax to see if I could return some of the color to it.

I didn't want it too look 'too good', but rather simply 'better'.

I'm also changing up some of the leather products I've been using. I use products from the high-end horse saddle industry.

View attachment 36145

The tricky bit is they like to let go of their load while you're carrying the equipment. Even though it looks much better, I'd consider it decorative rather than functional!

 

[Michaels HiFi]

The tricky bit is they like to let go of their load while you're carrying the equipment. Even though it looks much better, I'd consider it decorative rather than functional!

I totally agree, Ralph.

I always carry almost like carrying a tray - I never trust the handles.

I also go one step further and I don't let the covers rest in the open position because it puts stress on the screws on the hinges and I'm afraid it will pull them out. I always simply slide off the covers.

 

[Michaels HiFi]

My latest restoration project (of several waiting their turn).

I've got special plans for what I'm going to try with this one - something I haven't tried yet.

It's a CLOUGH BRENGLE MODEL 125 DYNATEST from 1939.

I always start with the outside, then the inside case, then the unit, then I work on the electronics.

This one took several hours to get from dirty to clean.

You can always start with some super strong cleaner but it will likely destroy the finish (in this case textured metal). It can either completely remove the finish or turn it into chaulky-white with a chemical reaction.

I started with gently first then worked my way up until I finally got it clean without needing to go more powerful.

I used several waterless washes to gently remove big dirt particle (Koch Chemie and then Collective), then I moved on to OBERK APS, then Sonax Multi-Star, then Mzr, then OBERK MPX, then Surfex-HD, then some W5, and finally finished with Duragloss APC and Jescar APC's with a soft bristle brush.

Then I wiped it down with panel prep spray to ensure I neutralized any of the alkaline cleaners.

I also used gentle metal polish to clean the metal strip around the case.

Again, it's a matter of starting of gentle and working my way up the chain only as far is needed to get it clean.

I'm going to no let it drive over night and then use a hand polish to clean the metal trim ring and then apply a light spray and wipe coating to protect it all.

Pic 1: As I received it;
Pic 2: After cleaning;
Pic 3: the untouced inside.

 

[JDC]

Cheap cross-section teak side table for my stereo chair. I sanded it down to glass (1000), - thanks @Michaels HiFi for the previous advice. It's really dense and has no problem with water. No wonder they use it on boats. A few thin coats of an oil finish and It's fine with my martini glass condensation. That's nice.

 

[Bones13]

Boats, and outdoor furniture. True teak is harder to find now. Lots of the outdoor furniture is now made of Eucalyptus, which is faster growing, and more common. Of course, faster growing means coarser grain, and less innate stability, and durability.

 

[Michaels HiFi]

Cheap cross-section teak side table for my stereo chair. I sanded it down to glass (1000), - thanks @Michaels HiFi for the previous advice. It's really dense and has no problem with water. No wonder they use it on boats. A few thin coats of an oil finish and It's fine with my martini glass condensation. That's nice.

Looks great! Which oil did you end up using? I love the look on a oiled finish.

 

[JDC]

Boats, and outdoor furniture. True teak is harder to find now. Lots of the outdoor furniture is now made of Eucalyptus, which is faster growing, and more common. Of course, faster growing means coarser grain, and less innate stability, and durability.

I suppose I have no way of knowing if it's real-deal teak. I think so because It looks like stone and there are no pores.

 

[JDC]

Looks great! Which oil did you end up using? I love the look on a oiled finish.

Oh....You'll be disappointed with me my friend... It was just "Forman's Tung oil'.' - I know it's not really tung oil but it happened to be in the cabinet under the kitchen sink.. Hey, It was there.. It was a $100 table..

 

[Michaels HiFi]

Oh....You'll be disappointed with me my friend... It was just "Forman's Tung oil'.' - I know it's not rieally tung oil but it happened to be in the cabinet under the kitchen sink.. Hey, It was there.. It was a $100 table..

I think you may mean 'Fornby's".

If so, You did well.

They were bought over by Minwax a few years back as they were a much better product than Minwax and too much competition. After buying it Minwax torpedoed the brand so they wouldn't have the competition any longer and some really good products are no longer made..

So if it is Fornby's- you did good!

 

[JDC]

I think you may mean 'Fornby's".

If so, You did well.

They were bought over by Minwax a few years back as they were a much better product than Minwax and too much competition. After buying it Minwax torpedoed the brand so they wouldn't have the competition any longer and some really good products are no longer made..

So if it is Fornby's- you did good!

Cool ! Yeah I just checked. it's some old Formby's