Magico S5 mk 2 in the house !

Adam,

I'm having nightmares about replacing the wheels on my inbound M3's with MPODS or spikes. What process did you use? Were you able to install them one at a time without tipping the speaker or laying it down?

Cincy

Cannot speak about the M3s, but my S5 mk 2 came with the wheels already installed (I was able to roll them out of crates - very convinient).

Replacing the wheels with spikes is a different story altogether - I think I'm gonna borrow the Wilson Audio Flat Jack from a friend of mine:

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Cannot speak about the M3s, but my S5 mk 2 came with the wheels already installed (I was able to roll them out of crates - very convinient).

Replacing the wheels with spikes is a different story altogether - I think I'm gonna borrow the Wilson Audio Flat Jack from a friend of mine.

It's a simple three person job (riskier with 2). You stand to the SIDE of the speaker, NEVER push from the back or front. Ensure all four wheels are LOCKED. You then tilt the speaker to the left (ideally one person on each side of the speaker). Push it just enough to allow removal of the wheels (by the third person) from the front and back of that one side. Should be able to hand remove and unscrew the wheels after a quick loosening. Then repeat for the other side of the speaker.

The biggest thing to remember is that with any Magico speaker, never push from the back or front when removing from the crate or replacing the feet/removing the wheels.
 
Adam - it doesn't look sturdy and couldn't the metal from the Jack ruin the bottom of the speaker?
 
I would get a thick rubber floor mat, cut it to 4" x 4" size and use it as a separator.
 
It's a simple three person job (riskier with 2). You stand to the SIDE of the speaker, NEVER push from the back or front. Ensure all four wheels are LOCKED. You then tilt the speaker to the left (ideally one person on each side of the speaker). Push it just enough to allow removal of the wheels (by the third person) from the front and back of that one side. Should be able to hand remove and unscrew the wheels after a quick loosening. Then repeat for the other side of the speaker.

The biggest thing to remember is that with any Magico speaker, never push from the back or front when removing from the crate or replacing the feet/removing the wheels.

This sounds do-able. Thx Mike.

Eric
 
I replaced the wheels on my S5II and S7 by myself in 10 minutes each speaker. I just tipped the speaker back, with all wheels locked and inserted a 2 X 4 to balance, then same for the back. Better to have someone else with you of course but it's not that big of a deal imho.
 
It's one thing to swap the wheels for the standard footers, and another to install the MPod platform on the M3 that isn't already equipped. In the photo of the S7 with the MPods it *looks* like the MPods just replace the factory footers without the need for a special platform. If that's the case it might be the same for the S5 Mk2.
 
It's one thing to swap the wheels for the standard footers, and another to install the MPod platform on the M3 that isn't already equipped. In the photo of the S7 with the MPods it *looks* like the MPods just replace the factory footers without the need for a special platform. If that's the case it might be the same for the S5 Mk2.

+1

Magico has not sent out a description the S7's/Mpods details yet, but agree with your assessment. Should hear facts shortly from Magico.
 
My burn-in rig:

DIyUFR.jpg


I hate burning stuff in, so I always try to make it as quick as possible. Since playing background music through my main system would be a real waste of electricity and tubes (not to mention the amount of heat generated by my 200W Class A MSB monos in the middle of a summer), I bought this $10 Marantz receiver from ebay. Playing radio 24/7 now.
 
According to Alan Shaw, that's all you need for Harbeth's. [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My burn-in rig:

DIyUFR.jpg


I hate burning stuff in, so I always try to make it as quick as possible. Since playing background music through my main system would be a real waste of electricity and tubes (not to mention the amount of heat generated by my 200W Class A MSB monos in the middle of a summer), I bought this $10 Marantz receiver from ebay. Playing radio 24/7 now.

Nice speaker cable:snicker:
 
It's a simple three person job (riskier with 2). You stand to the SIDE of the speaker, NEVER push from the back or front. Ensure all four wheels are LOCKED. You then tilt the speaker to the left (ideally one person on each side of the speaker). Push it just enough to allow removal of the wheels (by the third person) from the front and back of that one side. Should be able to hand remove and unscrew the wheels after a quick loosening. Then repeat for the other side of the speaker.

The biggest thing to remember is that with any Magico speaker, never push from the back or front when removing from the crate or replacing the feet/removing the wheels.

A simple 3 man job to replace the wheels with spikes - does not sound simple to me. :weird:

I can replace the wheels/spikes on my Maxx3's with only the Wilson jack and one person - me. Now that is easy :D


Still, the flat jack like the one Wilson supplies is not a bad idea. It is made by Tri-C Engineering AFAIK - you can get it much cheaper from them (obviously, without the Wilson logo).

http://www.tri-cengineering.com/FlatJack_by_Tri-CEngineering.html
 
A simple 3 man job to replace the wheels with spikes - does not sound simple to me. :weird:

I can replace the wheels/spikes on my Maxx3's with only the Wilson jack. Now that is easy :D

Really? It takes 2 minutes tops and three people is smart just to insure no accident. And in the end, you're rewarded with great sound. [emoji6]
 
Still, the flat jack like the one Wilson supplies is not a bad idea. It is made by Tri-C Engineering AFAIK - you can get it much cheaper from them (obviously, without the Wilson logo).

http://www.tri-cengineering.com/FlatJack_by_Tri-CEngineering.html

For anyone interested in the Tri-C Engineering flat jacks:

Our flat jacks are $299.95. If you would like to order one or have any
other questions about them feel free to contact Andy at 661-644-3542 or
[email protected]
Thanks,
Tri-C Engineering
661-295-1550
 
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