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brodricj said:
....sounds no different. Except for Spotify playback on the PS3, which has improved (the PS3 is now connected to Everest instead of direct to wall socket).
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Hi Brodric,

I thought about your problem and came up with a potential solution to further reduce your system’s noise level. If it were me, and I had that level of noise coming out of my dedicated outlet, I would purchase a Shunyata Typhon T2 and connect it to my dedicated outlet via a Shunyata power cord. Then I would purchase the Shunyata umbilical and run that from the Typhon T2 to the Everest. Then I would plug all my components into the Everest. This will produce an extra level of noise reduction for your system, not limit current, keep your power conditioning all Shunyata and minimize extra costs on wasted banks of outlets. Furthermore, it is designed for this specific purpose.

Best,
Ken
 
I've just taken the following EMI noise measurements (day time, bright sun).

PS Audio power plant

Inlet = 1850 mV.
HC = 1760 mV (non-regenerated)
Z1 = 1670 mV (regenerated)
Z2 = 1670 mV (regenerated)
Z3 = 1670 mV (regenerated)
Z4 = 1670 mV (regenerated)

This suggests to me all the regenerated zones are tied together directly.

Shunyata Denali 6000S/v1

Inlet = 1670 mV
Z1 = 1740 mV
Z2 = 1720 mV
HC = 1700 mV

The Denali outlets all measure a higher noise output than input.

Everest 8000

Inlet = 1850 mV
Z1 = 1540 mV
Z2 = 1410 mV
Z4 = 1270 mV

I'm contemplating the PlixiR BAC 3000 Pre-conditioner. This will connect to the wall socket and provide isolated balanced power to the Everest/power amps and Denali/source components.
 
Alpinist said:
...I would purchase a Shunyata Typhon T2 and connect it to my dedicated outlet via a Shunyata power cord. Then I would purchase the Shunyata umbilical and run that from the Typhon T2 to the Everest...
Click to expand...

If the T2 has similar noise reduction performance to Everest, with wall>T2>Everest configuration about 1000 mV of noise will still be getting through to the components.
 
brodricj said:
If the T2 has similar noise reduction performance to Everest, with wall>T2>Everest configuration about 1000 mV of noise will still be getting through to the components.
Click to expand...

Hi Brodric,

The Typhon T2 in conjunction with your Everest will not entirely eliminate your noise issue but it should make a material further improvement. I think it’s important to keep the power conditioning all Shunyata to not limit current and to maintain consistent sound quality.

Ken
 
Instead of continuing to cycle through power products based on and designed for the US/Canadian electrical delivery system have you considered just trying products designed for the 220 volt system. While they may not have the "name recognition' they might actually work better for your situation. Puritan and Gigawatt are just a couple that come to mind. Surely there are companies in your part of the world that make power products.
 
I would have thought my Denali and Everest were designed for the markets they are sold in (my Everest was purchased in Australia).
 
And you thought the same thing about the Power Plants. They were all designed in and for the US and adapted to other markets and the Torus units are the same way. A Canadian company whose products are also sold under the Bryston label.
 
That's right. PS Audio didn't put much thought into the original Australian version power plants. They couldn't handle our reverse Coriolis Southern hemispherical electricity. From what I understand PS Audio eventually changed to higher specification power transistors that were more tolerant of our coal generated southern hemispherical electricity.
 
Have to say I expected better from the Shunyata Everest, but before buying anything else I would get an electrician that is willing to do a full analysis of your power supply, that way you can ask some focused questions to potential suppliers.

The plixir might work, but I think their specs are peak values, there are other brands that spec continues values.
 
The last electrician I had here put his foot through the ceiling. He then did a runner leaving a few junction boxes in the roof space uncovered. It cost me $800 to repair and repaint the ceiling. I'm not sure what an electrician can tell me that I don't already know. I know what the voltage swings and THD% distortion is (they are data logged 24/7). It's simple single phase point-to-point TPS wiring. I know what the EMI noise is and where it's coming from. Apart from that?

Screen Shot 2022-12-04 at 19.30.03.png
Screen Shot 2022-12-04 at 19.30.22.png
 
sounds like you have it all figured out, but to really know whats happening on your powersupply, a Fluke power analyser (or something simular) is required to make clear where/what the distortions are. another way is to keep throwing money at the problem till a good result comes along.

Sorry for the bit harsh comments, I am just trying to help
 
brodricj said:
I've just taken the following EMI noise measurements (day time, bright sun).

PS Audio power plant

Inlet = 1850 mV.
HC = 1760 mV (non-regenerated)
Z1 = 1670 mV (regenerated)
Z2 = 1670 mV (regenerated)
Z3 = 1670 mV (regenerated)
Z4 = 1670 mV (regenerated)

This suggests to me all the regenerated zones are tied together directly.

Shunyata Denali 6000S/v1

Inlet = 1670 mV
Z1 = 1740 mV
Z2 = 1720 mV
HC = 1700 mV

The Denali outlets all measure a higher noise output than input.

Everest 8000

Inlet = 1850 mV
Z1 = 1540 mV
Z2 = 1410 mV
Z4 = 1270 mV

I'm contemplating the PlixiR BAC 3000 Pre-conditioner. This will connect to the wall socket and provide isolated balanced power to the Everest/power amps and Denali/source components.
Click to expand...

outstanding job from everest ! minus 400mv average!!
 
Something weird is happening.....I'm playing this track on Spotify....

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If I didn't know any better I'd swear the Grandioso transport is spinning the CD. But it's not. This is 320 streaming at its finest. And on a PS3 no less (powered by Everest).

Day 5 with the Everest. Puma Cat may have been about right about that.

Screen Shot 2022-12-05 at 19.28.54.png

(700 mV noise at the output of Everest - night)
 
brodricj said:
The last electrician I had here put his foot through the ceiling. He then did a runner leaving a few junction boxes in the roof space uncovered. It cost me $800 to repair and repaint the ceiling.
Click to expand...

cost you $800 ?? Wow, I hope you didn't pay the electrician a dime !
 
Yeah, he insisted on being paid before he left. He ignored me after that when I chased him about the ceiling repair. I should have just claimed on my insurance and left them to deal with it. The whole ceiling gets painted after the repair, 2 coats. Not just the repaired bit. In the end I couldn't be bothered. The junction boxes in my roof space still need to be closed up.
 
brodricj said:
Yeah, he insisted on being paid before he left. He ignored me after that when I chased him about the ceiling repair. I should have just claimed on my insurance and left them to deal with it. The whole ceiling gets painted after the repair, 2 coats. Not just the repaired bit. In the end I couldn't be bothered. The junction boxes in my roof space still need to be closed up.
Click to expand...

Can you report him to a licensing authority?
 
brodricj said:
Yeah, he insisted on being paid before he left. He ignored me after that when I chased him about the ceiling repair. I should have just claimed on my insurance and left them to deal with it. The whole ceiling gets painted after the repair, 2 coats. Not just the repaired bit. In the end I couldn't be bothered. The junction boxes in my roof space still need to be closed up.
Click to expand...


I hate to tell you but you should have showed him the door, playing him was mistake #1 !! I trust you reported the jackass to your township / local authorities ?
 
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