Ascending to even greater heights

Do we need a LED at all?

In a home cinema I don't really need a LED telling me the PD is on all the time. I would only like to be notified if a fault occurs. So when you switch the PD on it could light up green or blue for a minute then turn the powerled circuit off. If a fault occurs light a red led.

Triton had no LED which is sort of a puristic approach. :)
 
Crion said:
Do we need a LED at all?

In a home cinema I don't really need a LED telling me the PD is on all the time. I would only like to be notified if a fault occurs. So when you switch the PD on it could light up green or blue for a minute then turn the powerled circuit off. If a fault occurs light a red led.

Triton had no LED which is sort of a puristic approach. :)
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You're forgetting the fact that Shunyata thinks EVERYTHING through thoroughly, including the brightness of LEDs.

Even the "rubber" inserts on the the SS feet of the Denali or that attach to the bottom of the DFSS cable cradles are not rubber, but Shunyata's proprietary vibration-damping polymer.
 
Let's not create issues where there are none. If the LED intensity bothers you a small sliver of electrical tape solves the issue.
 
Is the unit released? If not then, obviously, no one knows the intensity of the LEDs. Looking at the picture, there appears to be two LEDs.
 
BlueFox said:
Is the unit released? If not then, obviously, no one knows the intensity of the LEDs. Looking at the picture, there appears to be two LEDs.
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There are two LEDs, just as on Denali. Only one is on when the unit is powered up and it is not bright. It's actually dimmer than the LED on my Schiit Gungnir DAC with a LightDim dot over it. And its considerably dimmer than the LEDs on my Uptone EtherREGEN and LPS-1.2 and a LOT dimmer than the LED on my Keces P3.

Bottom line, when it's on you can see it, but it is not at all what I would call bright but rather, quite subtle. Also, because it sits in a tapered opening, you can only see it when you are directly on-axis with the "optical center" of the front panel. If you are off-axis, it is barely visible.

Bottom-line, it is so subtle in appearance, that in daily use, you don't even notice it.
 
Caelin – I currently have a Denali 6000T, fed by an Alpha NR. (I was unaware of the "EF" info when I bought it.) If I can get a decent trade-in, I'll replace it with the Everest, but won't have the budget to upgrade the PC at the same time. How much of the Everest's performance will be diminished (if any) by an Alpha NR? What would be the least-expensive PC that won't diminish it's performance? (Obviously, better is better. I'm just wondering at what point in your PC line the Everest magic starts suffering...)
 
Crumhorn said:
How much of the Everest's performance will be diminished (if any) by an Alpha NR? What would be the least-expensive PC that won't diminish it's performance? (Obviously, better is better. I'm just wondering at what point in your PC line the Everest magic starts suffering...)
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I have always been a Motörhead and have done quite a bit of road racing, so I often think in those terms. So a good analogy is of a high performance engine. The Everest would be the engine and the intake system would be analogous to the cable that feeds the Everest and the exhaust is analogous to the output power cables.

With that being said you can understand that the engine, intake and exhaust all work together to produce the total power output.

So the ultimate cable to use with the Everest is the Omega XC. There is not a better cable from us or any competitor for the Everest. Any cable that is inferior to the Omega will ultimately reduce power system performance. However, cost can be a determinant factor. In my personal opinion, given the potential of the Everest, I would not go below the Sigma XC which is second from the top in our PC lineup.

You can certainly hear the potential of Everest with your Alpha NR which is a fine cable. So it is a good starting point and you will certainly benefit from the Everest’s capabilities. You simply won’t experience the maximum that it is capable of delivering unless you upgrade to a Sigma XC or Omega XC cable.

To use one of PumaCat’s analogies; you certainly would not buy a Porsche GT3 and put a restrictive intake on it.

Look I will always point people to a cheaper solution if I think it is in their best interest and their system components justify it. The Everest is not about being reasonable or about achieving the best performance at a reasonable cost. That is what the profile for the Denali Sv2 was about. Exceeding the performance of virtually every power conditioner on the market and pricing it at half the going rate. The Everest is not that - it is an all out, screaming assault on redefining the ultimate in power conditioner performance. And in my opinion, we have exceeded our target. But ultimately our customers will be the final judge of that.
 
Well, once I sell my MD house I will do my last big audio purchase. This will be the Everest, and three Omega power cords. Being retired, and 70, I better not want to buy more later. Of course, this means I will have to sell a Triton v3, Typhon QR, two Denali 2000, and assorted Shunyata power cords.
 
BlueFox said:
Well, once I sell my MD house I will do my last big audio purchase. This will be the Everest, and three Omega power cords. Being retired, and 70, I better not want to buy more later. Of course, this means I will have to sell a Triton v3, Typhon QR, two Denali 2000, and assorted Shunyata power cords.
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I would not be so hasty my friend. The Tv3 and TQR are quite formidable.
You have an incredible system. Enjoy it.
Let the first adopters and reviewers chime in before making such a radical change.
And then, of course, get a demonstration.
 
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