Small Room - Any Advise Please

Jerry Seh

New member
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
247
Location
Singapore
As I am moving over to a new place, and courtesy of my dear wife, I am allocated a small room (10 feet x 18 feet - long).

The 10 feet space is where the speakers will be placed.

So far, I am thinking of the following speakers:

1. Sonus Faber Amati Futura.
2. Wilson Sasha 2 or Sophia 3.
3. Focal Sopra No2.

The Sopra seems to garner very good reviews, in fact, some saying its better than the Futura.

Will be sitting like 10 feet away from the speakers (on the long 18 feet length of the room - middle of course).

Amps will be the Devialet. Please advise if indeed the Focal Sopra is the best lot - for this particular room size.

Thanks everyone for contributing.

Cheers
 
In a room like that, I'd seriously consider the Wilson Audio Sabrina's, Magico S1 MK 2's, Rosso Fiorentino Volterra's, or the Rockport Atria's.
 
Magico S1 mk2.
Focal Sopra No. 1.
Avantgarde Zero XD
Living Voice IBX-RW


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Jerry. Are you sure you are looking for the speakers for a small room ? ;)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Raidho D1s or Sopra 1s would be great choices. The sabrina might be very good also.

If you want deeper bass extension a couple small REL subs could be hidden in the corners. The S2s are about 14" cube.
 
You will be better off with less bass issues choosing Wilson or Magico as above listed....


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
For a room that small:

Magico Q1 monitors, or the other monitors suggested by others, with REL subwoofers.

Seriously, once you have gotten over the idea that you MUST have large or floorstanding speakers -- because everyone has them -- you may discover just how big of a sound good monitors can give you, but without all the issues that you would have with large speakers in a small room.

I have a larger room *) and still have monitors with sub. People who have heard my system are usually astonished about the sheer size of the sound, and the quality of my bass, including on heavy rock.

I have heard the Magico Q1 monitors myself, with top Spectral gear, and they would be my dream speakers. By the way, the Q1 by themselves go relatively low in the bass, even without sub, but a sub will help. The fact that you can adjust the volume of deep bass with a sub will help prevent the "boom city" effect mentioned above.

The nice thing with monitors is also that you can sit near-field, which may give you a subjectively wider soundstage in a small room. That seating also allows you more freedom to move the speakers away from the front wall for soundstage depth, without your listening seat being too close to the back wall.

_________________

*) 24’ x 12’ (small bay window next to the left speaker 13.5’) x 8.5’.
 
Hi Jerry; I noticed a few things you said regarding your choice of speakers, the room size, etc. that made me write this note to you. First of all, never sit in the middle of room, regardless of its dimentions (unless it is a huge concert hall). The middle of the room is where you will hear the least amount of bass from your woofers as it is the point at which all bass radiation from walls, floor, ceiling, eventually meet, collide and cancel themselves out. The best place to sit in a room is 1/3 of its length in it. So for a 10ft. X 18ft room you would want to sit 5ft. from the left wall or 5 ft from the right wall, facing down the longest length of the room. Your listeing seat should be 33.3% of 18 feet which is 6 feet from the wall behind you and 12 feet from the wall in front of you. I presume you will have your speakerfs at least 28 to 48-inches out from the far wall in front of you. This will put you 8 to 10 feet away from your speakers and 10 to 12 feet away from your speakers. This is where you'll get the least number of nulls and peaks in sound in your room (the flattest dB sound response). It will also look better, like a listening room should look.

Your speakers should be at least 24-inches from the side walls (unless they are electrostatic speakers..they can be put closer to a side wall without any detriment). This would place your speakers approximately 6 feet apart in a 10-foot wide area. Since the speakers are close together, they will likely sound best pointed straight ahead. Do not tow them in if you prefer a wider spacious open sound. If you want pin-point imaging, do tow them in about 10 degrees (2 inches) which is slight but will give you a sharper image of the sound stage, but less width.

The Focal Sopra No2 (a French speaker) uses mineral (ground rock) in their mid and woofer speaker drivers to make them ridged. This lowers distortion. I find these French speakers very neutral, and cool sounding. They lack warmth and do not sound musical to me in my numerous auditions of their entire line of speakers. It is their unique kind of sound. The Wilson Sasha 2 or 3 have a similar sound (a family sound) which is rich, neutral and at times sparkly in the highs. It impresses, but after while fatigues the listener. Real music (live) does not fatigue so long as it is not played too loud. The Sonus Faber Amati Futura is a lush, warm, very musical speaker. The highs are clean and will not burn your ears out. They are smooth, well integrated and live sounding. The mid range is simply real sounding. These speakers, when not played loudly simply disappear leaving you with a live music replication and illusion. The bass is very much there when it is in the recording. Therefore, it does not have a upper bass rise to make the speakers sound as if it has powerful bass. When you play something seriously deep (50Hz or lower), this speaker will let you know you are in the basement of that tune...very powerful and felt. The upper bass, lower midrange is where this speaker sounds glorious and ultra smooth. The cabinet construction, finish and craftsmanship is also above reproach.

One last thing. Your room will likely have bass nulls and peaks because of its dimensions. You did not specify how high your ceiling is. If it is 8 ft., you will need some room treatment such as bass graps judicially placed to flatten out the base frequencies (120 to 22 Hz). If your ceiling is 10 ft. or higher, it will make the bass tolerable without room treatment or equalization. Remember, yours dimensipons, wall materials, flooring, furnishings, drapes, etc. makes up 50% of the sound you hear. If you want proof, listen to your system for a few minutes, then put on a good sounding pair of earphones and listen to the same music passage. Most of the difference you hear in tone is caused by the room. The earphones will always produce a more accurate (flat) sound than a speaker will in your room. Therefore, to get a flat sound response free from nulls (dips) and peaks in the sound you hear, digital equalization and light sound treatment of your room will let you hear what your speakers actually sound like without the room issue changing the sound put out by your speakers. A $50,000.00 pair of speakers in a bad listening room takes their accuracy and quality down to the level of what you would hear in department store from a $500.00 of speakers. I suggest you focus first on room treatment to tune your room to a flatter resonse and a good digital equalization component to tune your speakers to work with the room, thus giving you a "you are there, live illusion". Remember, stereophonic is Latin. Stereo means from two points and phonic means phony. So Stereophonic is sound from two points that is phony (not real). The art and science of audiophiledom is to produce a sound in your room that tricks you into believing you are hearing the live "you are there" sound in the venue in which the music was recorded. If you are a true audiophile, anything less then was is suggested herein is a waste of your time and money. You might as well buy a Bose table radio and settle for background music and spend your money on attending "live" musical events and get the "real thing". If, however, you crave the "real thing" in your listening room, then for heaven's sake, set up and treat your room so it can deliver to you what you want. Then put speakers in that are designed with good audio science behind them and are well built. Price is not the issue here. What your ears hear is everything. Hope this helped you. My best regards, Doc
 
Last edited:
Hi Jerry; I noticed a few things you said regarding your choice of speakers, the room size, etc. that made me write this note to you. First of all, never sit in the middle of room, regardless of its dimentions (unless it is a huge concert hall). The middle of the room is where you will hear the least amount of bass from your woofers as it is the point at which all bass radiation from walls, floor, ceiling, eventually meet, collide and cancel themselves out. The best place to sit in a room is 1/3 of its length in it. So for a 10ft. X 18ft room you would want to sit 5ft. from the left wall or 5 ft from the right wall, facing down the longest length of the room. Your listeing seat should be 33.3% of 18 feet which is 6 feet from the wall behind you and 12 feet from the wall in front of you. I presume you will have your speakerfs at least 28 to 48-inches out from the far wall in front of you. This will put you 8 to 10 feet away from your speakers and 10 to 12 feet away from your speakers. This is where you'll get the least number of nulls and peaks in sound in your room (the flattest dB sound response). It will also look better, like a listening room should look.

[…]

One last thing. Your room will likely have bass nulls and peaks because of its dimensions. You did not specify how high your ceiling is. If it is 8 ft., you will need some room treatment such as bass graps judicially placed to flatten out the base frequencies (120 to 22 Hz). If your ceiling is 10 ft. or higher, it will make the bass tolerable without room treatment or equalization. Remember, yours dimensipons, wall materials, flooring, furnishings, drapes, etc. makes up 50% of the sound you hear. If you want proof, listen to your system for a few minutes, then put on a good sounding pair of earphones and listen to the same music passage. Most of the difference you hear in tone is caused by the room. The earphones will always produce a more accurate (flat) sound than a speaker will in your room. Therefore, to get a flat sound response free from nulls (dips) and peaks in the sound you hear, digital equalization and light sound treatment of your room will let you hear what your speakers actually sound like without the room issue changing the sound put out by your speakers. A $50,000.00 pair of speakers in a bad listening room takes their accuracy and quality down to the level of what you would hear in department store from a $500.00 of speakers. I suggest you focus first on room treatment to tune your room to a flatter resonse and a good digital equalization component to tune your speakers to work with the room, thus giving you a "you are there, live illusion". Remember, stereophonic is Latin. Stereo means from two points and phonic means phony. So Stereophonic is sound from two points that is phony (not real). The art and science of audiophiledom is to produce a sound in your room that tricks you into believing you are hearing the live "you are there" sound in the venue in which the music was recorded. If you are a true audiophile, anything less then was is suggested herein is a waste of your time and money. You might as well buy a Bose table radio and settle for background music and spend your money on attending "live" musical events and get the "real thing". If, however, you crave the "real thing" in your listening room, then for heaven's sake, set up and treat your room so it can deliver to you what you want. Then put speakers in that are designed with good audio science behind them and are well built. Price is not the issue here. What your ears hear is everything. Hope this helped you. My best regards, Doc

Great post, Doc, and welcome to the forum. I like your phony translation of phonic as phony ;).

As for the room, I agree with you. It cannot be overemphasized how important room treatment is. Mine is extensive, see pictures in second post on this page:

http://www.whatsbestforum.com/showthread.php?17334-My-minimonitor-subwoofer-system/page2

I describe the effect of the absence of my tube traps, while they were on loan to a friend, here:

http://www.whatsbestforum.com/showthread.php?20189-ASC-tube-traps-effect-of-their-absence
 
Hi Jerry; I noticed a few things you said regarding your choice of speakers, the room size, etc. that made me write this note to you. First of all, never sit in the middle of room, regardless of its dimentions (unless it is a huge concert hall). The middle of the room is where you will hear the least amount of bass from your woofers as it is the point at which all bass radiation from walls, floor, ceiling, eventually meet, collide and cancel themselves out. The best place to sit in a room is 1/3 of its length in it. So for a 10ft. X 18ft room you would want to sit 5ft. from the left wall or 5 ft from the right wall, facing down the longest length of the room. Your listeing seat should be 33.3% of 18 feet which is 6 feet from the wall behind you and 12 feet from the wall in front of you. I presume you will have your speakerfs at least 28 to 48-inches out from the far wall in front of you. This will put you 8 to 10 feet away from your speakers and 10 to 12 feet away from your speakers. This is where you'll get the least number of nulls and peaks in sound in your room (the flattest dB sound response). It will also look better, like a listening room should look.

Your speakers should be at least 24-inches from the side walls (unless they are electrostatic speakers..they can be put closer to a side wall without any detriment). This would place your speakers approximately 6 feet apart in a 10-foot wide area. Since the speakers are close together, they will likely sound best pointed straight ahead. Do not tow them in if you prefer a wider spacious open sound. If you want pin-point imaging, do tow them in about 10 degrees (2 inches) which is slight but will give you a sharper image of the sound stage, but less width.

Doc, question on your measurements are you measuring from the center of the driver or the cabinet front rear or side ? thanks
 
Hi Doc,

Welcome to AS! :hey:

Although I do not agree personally with some of your specific suggestions (such as sitting at the third point in the room), the main direction of your post re getting the most from the room is s-o-o-o right! (IMO, of course)

Best,

Jim
 
Jim;

While it is true to sit at the back wall of a room if you want the most bass (which can be boomy) or in the middle of the room, to tame the base down, acoustic derived math indicates the most neutral position in a listening room, regardless of its dimentions is 33.3% in from the front wall of that room or the back wall of the room. Since the front of the speakers cone should be from 2 to 3 feet from the back wall behind the speaker, it is best to sit 12 feet from the wall behind the speakers. This puts the the listener 33.3% into the room and the speaker's cones 9 to 10 feet away form the listener which give a closer triangle of the listener in relationship to the right and left speaker. The listener, sitting 9 feet from the speakers cones and the speakers six feet apart from their cones would provide a triangle ample enough for a good imaging effect, plus eliminate loud wall slap from sound bouncing off the side and back walls. The bass would not boom as the bass driver cone would be approximately 3 feet from the back wall and 2 feet away from the corners. This along with good room treatment materials, properly installed and judicious use of measured digital equalization and phase correction can make a lousy sounding room sound marvelous. It's not voodoo, it's merely acoustic science of which the results can be measured and proven, and most important, confirmed by what one's ears hear.

Doc
 
Last edited:
Both the XT1's and XT3's are bottom ported but the XT2's are rear ported. Raidho's do sound best when about 9' apart
attachment.php
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • XT2basesm.JPG
    XT2basesm.JPG
    87.4 KB · Views: 118
  • XT2sm.jpg
    XT2sm.jpg
    255.9 KB · Views: 120
Jim;

While it is true to sit at the back wall of a room if you want the most bass (which can be boomy) or in the middle of the room, to tame the base down, acoustic derived math indicates the most neutral position in a listening room, regardless of its dimentions is 33.3% in from the front wall of that room or the back wall of the room. Since the front of the speakers cone should be from 2 to 3 feet from the back wall behind the speaker, it is best to sit 12 feet from the wall behind the speakers. This puts the the listener 33.3% into the room and the speaker's cones 9 to 10 feet away form the listener which give a closer triangle of the listener in relationship to the right and left speaker. The listener, sitting 9 feet from the speakers cones and the speakers six feet apart from their cones would provide a triangle ample enough for a good imaging effect, plus eliminate loud wall slap from sound bouncing off the side and back walls. The bass would not boom as the bass driver cone would be approximately 3 feet from the back wall and 2 feet away from the corners. This along with good room treatment materials, properly installed and judicious use of measured digital equalization and phase correction can make a lousy sounding room sound marvelous. It's not voodoo, it's merely acoustic science of which the results can be measured and proven, and most important, confirmed by what one's ears hear.

Doc

I could not disagree more with your specific recommendations. The only way it might work is if the only thing in the room is the spreadsheet. A classic example of ACK, IMO.

This is hardly the welcome you should receive as a new AS member - I do agree with your basic premise. 
 
Hi Jerry; I noticed a few things you said regarding your choice of speakers, the room size, etc. that made me write this note to you. First of all, never sit in the middle of room, regardless of its dimentions (unless it is a huge concert hall). The middle of the room is where you will hear the least amount of bass from your woofers as it is the point at which all bass radiation from walls, floor, ceiling, eventually meet, collide and cancel themselves out. The best place to sit in a room is 1/3 of its length in it. So for a 10ft. X 18ft room you would want to sit 5ft. from the left wall or 5 ft from the right wall, facing down the longest length of the room. Your listeing seat should be 33.3% of 18 feet which is 6 feet from the wall behind you and 12 feet from the wall in front of you. I presume you will have your speakerfs at least 28 to 48-inches out from the far wall in front of you. This will put you 8 to 10 feet away from your speakers and 10 to 12 feet away from your speakers. This is where you'll get the least number of nulls and peaks in sound in your room (the flattest dB sound response). It will also look better, like a listening room should look.

Your speakers should be at least 24-inches from the side walls (unless they are electrostatic speakers..they can be put closer to a side wall without any detriment). This would place your speakers approximately 6 feet apart in a 10-foot wide area. Since the speakers are close together, they will likely sound best pointed straight ahead. Do not tow them in if you prefer a wider spacious open sound. If you want pin-point imaging, do tow them in about 10 degrees (2 inches) which is slight but will give you a sharper image of the sound stage, but less width.

The Focal Sopra No2 (a French speaker) uses mineral (ground rock) in their mid and woofer speaker drivers to make them ridged. This lowers distortion. I find these French speakers very neutral, and cool sounding. They lack warmth and do not sound musical to me in my numerous auditions of their entire line of speakers. It is their unique kind of sound. The Wilson Sasha 2 or 3 have a similar sound (a family sound) which is rich, neutral and at times sparkly in the highs. It impresses, but after while fatigues the listener. Real music (live) does not fatigue so long as it is not played too loud. The Sonus Faber Amati Futura is a lush, warm, very musical speaker. The highs are clean and will not burn your ears out. They are smooth, well integrated and live sounding. The mid range is simply real sounding. These speakers, when not played loudly simply disappear leaving you with a live music replication and illusion. The bass is very much there when it is in the recording. Therefore, it does not have a upper bass rise to make the speakers sound as if it has powerful bass. When you play something seriously deep (50Hz or lower), this speaker will let you know you are in the basement of that tune...very powerful and felt. The upper bass, lower midrange is where this speaker sounds glorious and ultra smooth. The cabinet construction, finish and craftsmanship is also above reproach.

One last thing. Your room will likely have bass nulls and peaks because of its dimensions. You did not specify how high your ceiling is. If it is 8 ft., you will need some room treatment such as bass graps judicially placed to flatten out the base frequencies (120 to 22 Hz). If your ceiling is 10 ft. or higher, it will make the bass tolerable without room treatment or equalization. Remember, yours dimensipons, wall materials, flooring, furnishings, drapes, etc. makes up 50% of the sound you hear. If you want proof, listen to your system for a few minutes, then put on a good sounding pair of earphones and listen to the same music passage. Most of the difference you hear in tone is caused by the room. The earphones will always produce a more accurate (flat) sound than a speaker will in your room. Therefore, to get a flat sound response free from nulls (dips) and peaks in the sound you hear, digital equalization and light sound treatment of your room will let you hear what your speakers actually sound like without the room issue changing the sound put out by your speakers. A $50,000.00 pair of speakers in a bad listening room takes their accuracy and quality down to the level of what you would hear in department store from a $500.00 of speakers. I suggest you focus first on room treatment to tune your room to a flatter resonse and a good digital equalization component to tune your speakers to work with the room, thus giving you a "you are there, live illusion". Remember, stereophonic is Latin. Stereo means from two points and phonic means phony. So Stereophonic is sound from two points that is phony (not real). The art and science of audiophiledom is to produce a sound in your room that tricks you into believing you are hearing the live "you are there" sound in the venue in which the music was recorded. If you are a true audiophile, anything less then was is suggested herein is a waste of your time and money. You might as well buy a Bose table radio and settle for background music and spend your money on attending "live" musical events and get the "real thing". If, however, you crave the "real thing" in your listening room, then for heaven's sake, set up and treat your room so it can deliver to you what you want. Then put speakers in that are designed with good audio science behind them and are well built. Price is not the issue here. What your ears hear is everything. Hope this helped you. My best regards, Doc
Good Post!
 
You can take advantage of the Devialet's subwoofer crossover (see here: http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/devialet-subwoofer-crossover/) to roll off the bass to main speakers and send to one or two subs.

For speakers look at Vivid, KEF, ATC.

Plan on having EQ capability on the subs. The new JL Fathom v2's have this (http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/jl-audio-fathom-v2-digital-automatic-room-optimization-daro-review/).

You will need to acoustically treat the room. Not sure what is available in Singapore but sidewall reflections will be an issue for sure due to how close the speakers will be to the wall. And if your wall construction is concrete bass will also be an issue. Potentially you could give up some length to build large bass traps into the room.
 
Hi Jim; well, its all about math and science with me when it comes to speaker positioning in a room and the size of the room itself.

The late Paul Klipsch who founded the Klipsch speaker company back in the late 30's and was the inventor of the famous Klipsch Corner Horn speaker (still in production today) found in his experiments that an ideal listening room size was 17 feet long by 19 feet wide by 9 feet high. Notice that you can't divide any one number of feet into the other number of feet equally by 2. It always comes out as a fraction. This, therefore, significantly reduces sound frequency nulls and peaks caused by the room's dimensions.

A room that is 10ft. wide X 18ft. long X 8ft. or 10ft. high can be divided eaually by 2ft. in every dimension. This assures major nulls and peaks in the bass and a lumpy mid frequency and curtailed highs if you sit anywhere in the room which the footage from where you sit to where any given surface is (wall, ceiling, etc.) can be divided by 2ft. While siting, your head is about 3 feet from the floor. That's an odd number and a good one to start with. Now sit where you head is at an odd number (not an even number) from the ceiling, front, rear and side walls and your ears will not be in the middle of a null or peak in the sounds frequency range.

The only way to eliminate this 10 X 18 X 8 foot room's sound problem is make the room higher or lower by one foot and the length and width smaller or larger by one foot. Obviously, that would not be practical. Therefore, the next best thing an audiophile can do is position his listening position at an odd length of feet from the front wall between where the speakers will be placed at a distance that cannot be divided equally by 2ft.
The best place to start is at 33.3% of the length of from the front or the rear wall. This would put the listener in an odd number in feet position between the front and back walls and the left and right wall and the ceiling and the floor. This would place the listener's head at an approximate area where the number two could not divide equally into the footage one's head is from the floor, ceiling, left and right walls and the front and back walls, thus reducing the the decibel levels of the nulls and peaks heard in the frequency band the speakers can produce in sound.

Finally, it's not a matter of disagreeing with me. I didn't invent how math applied to frequencies of air molecules moving at the speed of sound and bouncing off all surfaces causes frequency cancellation nulls and sound peaks (such as bass boom). I do know if you are in a perfect cube for a room (the length, width and height are all exactly the same size) you will have a room that bass boom cannot be avoided and a lumpy sound that would be most unpleasant to listen to. Why? Each wall, floor and ceiling can be divided equally into any other wall, floor or ceiling's foot size. Thus sounds at specific frequencies will be cancelled out while other frequencies will produce sound twice as loud. To tame this reality, the front, back and side walls and ceiling all have to be a different amount of feet away from each other and preferably at a footage that is odd in length so it cannot be divided into equally by an even number such as 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, etc. or by an odd number such a 12 into 12 which equals 1 or 15 into 20 which can be divided by an odd number 5.

Paul Klipsch was an electrical and accoustical engineer who worked out this math and proved the room size "golden ratio" for a typical home for any speaker would be 17 ft. long by 19 ft. wide and 9 feet high. Notice no number can be divided equally into any other number in these dimensions and that an even or odd number cannot be divided into any of these numbers. This is what works. And, even with the ideal dimensions of a room as stated, Klipsch also suggested the seating position would be 33.3% away from the back wall, thus allowing for a near perfect triangle formation between the speakers and where the 33.3% sitting position would be.

Back in the early 70's I bought a pair of Klipschorns. They cost me $2,500.00 for the pair at that time and took a six weeks to receive after ordering them. Those same speakers cost over $10,000.00 for a pair today. With those speakers I received a very thick owners manual that got into the engineering aspects of the Klipschorns, how corner loading the speakers produced bass that went down to 32 cycles (the C pedal note on a pipe organ) and did so with utmost accuracy and power. The manual also went into room size as I have relayed to you in this response. That's when I learned about room ratios for accurate sound reproduction, etc.

Fortunetly, the room in which I installed those Klipschorn speakers was near the ideal size specified. I kept those speakers for years until the Heil Air Motion Transformer AMTi-2B speakers came out. They sounded and measured to be more accurate in sound reproduction than the corner horns, so I sold the horns and bought the AMT-1B speakers. Since then I have enjoyed owning a variety of high end speakers and components to power them. My current listening room is 19 X 21 X 11 feet which is ideal. And, due to its size, fosters a rather flat frequency response. To this I have added digital EQ, phase and pulse response to tune my room and speakers to a flat frequency response.

My listening positon is 33.3 percent from the back wall of the room where I sit to listen to music and view movies. This puts me about 13 feet from the wall behind my speakers and six feet from the wall behind where I sit. My head is about 10.5 feet from the left and right wall and 7 feet from the ceiling. From a microphone positioned where my head is when sitting to listen to music, I measure a frequency response from 18Hz to 14kHz + or - 2dB at a 75 dB volume level of my left and right speakers. The speakers roll off at 1 db per octave above 14kHz which is a listening preference I have that to me, causes the music heard to sound real and not stringent. My speakers are in a perfect 11ft X 11ft. X 11ft. triangle pattern from where I sit and facing me (towed in about 33%) Trust me, this took a great deal of modest room tuning and digital sound manipulation, plus a fantastic pair of computer modeled, custom built, triamplified and electronically crossed over, floor standing speakers featuring the best speaker drivers build by Scan Speak of Denmark in heavily reinforced, ported cabinets weighing in at 210 pounds each finished in hammered bronze and copper. My home was custom designed and built by me. It took 13 months to build it and the home entertainment (listening and home theater room) was structured for the best sound quality possible. Even the walls are of two different thicknesses of sheet rock separated 4 inches apart by staggered studs and sound proofed with fiberglass for that purpose. The thin sheet of sheet rock allows for some fractional flex to further prevent bass boom. A modest amount of acoustical treatment is in the room cleverly disguised to not disturb the beautiful appearance of the room. The decor in my Santa Fe style home is in the South West tradition. Eligant, while at the same time, "laid back". And you, my audiophile friend, are invited to stop in at any time and visit with me, plus audition my "He-Man" audio/video rig and share a fine glass of wine with me in the process. Write me and let me know if you wish to stop by. I live in Kingman, Arizona.

I would very much like to hear what you know or believe is the ideal room dimensions for a great listening room and what procedures you would employ to achieve a flat frequency response within the realm of normal adult human hearing and precisely where you would be seated to foster the hearing of accurate sound reproduction from your speakers. Then, briefly rehears with me how you have your room and speakers set up and your room's dimensions. There is always something we audiophiles can learn from each other.

Regards; Doc
 
Last edited:
Back
Top