Hi, everyone. I just joined up to post here as this evening I became the third owner of the amps originally owned by RKlein in Ohio (by following the USAM sale tea leaves), and after a couple hours of introduction, am blown away. This is my first Class D experience and wow, more to come but what a great first impression. Happy listening!
I've read that different power cables can make a difference to the sound with the Nord.
Anyone in the UK tried different power cables and found there was a difference?
I'm using a Mark Grant DSP 2.5 but have not tried any others.
I've read that different power cables can make a difference to the sound with the Nord.
Anyone in the UK tried different power cables and found there was a difference?
I'm using a Mark Grant DSP 2.5 but have not tried any others.
I'm using a Russ Andrews extension block and I have to use it due to only having one socket in the area by the hifi system.I've done quite a lot of power cable experiments, I settled on a sort of "go to" cable for most things a while back and have not tried my Nord on anything except that cable I don't think (that cable is about £150 in parts and then self built).
The only thing that on a slim chance might be relevant here is that I have tried the DSP2.5 at some point on other power amps and other separates and I was never impressed with it, that was DSP2.5 built up with a silver plated MS-HD plug and silver plated Kaiser IEC.
Are you using a multi-way extension by the way or is the Nord plugged straight into a wall socket?
Excellent information there. I'm going to try some of them, hopefully the more expensive mains cables I will be able to test, and return them if I am not happy.Yes. I have just finished reviewing some mains cables and got different results with different amplifiers. On the Nord, the best inexpensive cable was the Belden cable with decent connectors (Wattgate and Schurter). MCRU and others will make you up a cable for a reasonable price £40. After that, the Supra 3.5 mains cable was better than the Belden but not by much. It costs about £80-90. If you are feeling a little flush then the SW1X Design copper cable is a high-quality, good, copper cable for about £250. And finally, the SW1X Design silver cable at £450 is clearly better. I tried Audionote silver cables and they did not work so well and made the sound a bit bright, light and airy. And unfortunately lightweight and sharp, which the Nord, being super neutral, is not.
I'm no good with diy.If you make your own with off the reel cable you can get the mains plug and iec sorted then you can always rebuild with a different off the reel cable.
You don't have to be too handy to build them, the screening you connect to earth at the mains plug end. Some off the reel cables have a drain wire which makes it easy, ones that don't you fashion a thick wire out of the screen braid. Cover whichever with a bit of heatshrink and connect it to the earth pin.
The last ones I made and use I got a Furutech FI-11cu and FI-1363L cu and put them together with FPS-20n, these were good. I might have a spare one if you want, but I'm not sure if it is 0.75m or 1.0m.
If I was making one now, I would try Acrolink 7n-p4030 Anniversario which is supposed to be great, but it is like stiff hosepipe, a lot of them are, but it is particularly stubborn to route about.
Excellent information there. I'm going to try some of them, hopefully the more expensive mains cables I will be able to test, and return them if I am not happy.
That input buffer board which was in part designed by the owner of Sonic Imagery was posted on the DIY forum for all to see and use if they wished. Colin also took advantage of the design to tweak his own buffer so no copying. Only so many ways to skin that cat anyways without a much larger R&D budget so using a design approved and tested by the Op Amp manufacturer seems like a smart move to me. The cases, cables, connectors, etc. are really the only choices to make and unless you want your amps to range into the prices of Bel Canto and Merrill your choices are limited. So as the result there are a group of "OEMs' making what appear to be identical amps.