JL subs

Late to the topic but my comments FWIW.

JL Audio had problems with some subs years back. As I understand it, version 2 F series and E and D series do not have cap issues.

In terms of sonics, the reference Fathom line is very good and IME / IMO better than comparable Rel subs. I wouldn't put SVS in the same category as they're really HT subs and not of the same caliber of quality output, especially for music.

With regard to folks saying they "can't integrate them with the mains", that's not the sub, that's your inability to know how to integrate them. I've integrated $200 subs perfectly, and completely inaudible from the mains. Never had a problem integrating Rel, JL Audio, etc. Hire a known professional to get what you paid for if you're not up to the task.

Finally, I've owned Rel, JL Audio, Elac, SVS and heard pretty much all of the usual suspects and then some, IME the best sub for music is Perlisten, especially the D21x reference series. I own 2: D215S subs, check out the uber - low distortion #s via a push - pull configuration, levels better than the 4 Fathoms subs I had previously (which were vg IMO) and better than Rel, etc. And BTW, anyone who's bought into the Rel 6 pack stacked next to mains knows nothing about sub integration, including Rel themselves, but it looks cool. ;-)
 
Last edited:
I have a JL Audio Gotham v1 which has been trouble-free since new. It’s a big dual 13” driver sub that sounds great with music and has enough volume displacement to work well for HT.

I am building a dedicated HT and will use 4 Monoproce THX 13” in a double bass array (DBA).

In a DBA the rear subs are delayed by the time it takes a wave front to travel from the front subs to the rears. The rears are phase inverted so they cancel the wave from the front subs, dramatically reducing standing waves and LF response bumps.

Should be fun experiment.
 
W9TR said:
I have a JL Audio Gotham v1 which has been trouble-free since new. It’s a big dual 13” driver sub that sounds great with music and has enough volume displacement to work well for HT.

I am building a dedicated HT and will use 4 Monoproce THX 13” in a double bass array (DBA).

In a DBA the rear subs are delayed by the time it takes a wave front to travel from the front subs to the rears. The rears are phase inverted so they cancel the wave from the front subs, dramatically reducing standing waves and LF response bumps.

Should be fun experiment.
Click to expand...
Sounds like it will be fun. Be sure to keep up updated on how it goes.
 
W9TR said:
I have a JL Audio Gotham v1 which has been trouble-free since new. It’s a big dual 13” driver sub that sounds great with music and has enough volume displacement to work well for HT.

I am building a dedicated HT and will use 4 Monoproce THX 13” in a double bass array (DBA).

In a DBA the rear subs are delayed by the time it takes a wave front to travel from the front subs to the rears. The rears are phase inverted so they cancel the wave from the front subs, dramatically reducing standing waves and LF response bumps.

Should be fun experiment.
Click to expand...
Curious if you've ever measured to confirm the cancellation. I'm betting it's marginally effective at best as it's not as simple as - the rear wave cancels the front as sound isn't uni - directional, it bounces all over the room with axial, tangential and oblique modes. Sure, axial modes are the most prominent, but by far it's not that simple. It also depends on your room size, your speaker location and your listening location. As with most things, devil is in the details. Measure, adjust, then listen for a final dial - in.
 
sb6 said:
Curious if you've ever measured to confirm the cancellation. I'm betting it's marginally effective at best as it's not as simple as - the rear wave cancels the front as sound isn't uni - directional, it bounces all over the room with axial, tangential and oblique modes. Sure, axial modes are the most prominent, but by far it's not that simple. It also depends on your room size, your speaker location and your listening location. As with most things, devil is in the details. I might suggest side wall or side offset, again, depends on room, ss, speaker location. Measure, adjust, then listen for a final dial - in.
Click to expand...
 
sb6 said:
Curious if you've ever measured to confirm the cancellation. I'm betting it's marginally effective at best as it's not as simple as - the rear wave cancels the front as sound isn't uni - directional, it bounces all over the room with axial, tangential and oblique modes. Sure, axial modes are the most prominent, but by far it's not that simple. It also depends on your room size, your speaker location and your listening location. As with most things, devil is in the details. Measure, adjust, then listen for a final dial - in.
Click to expand...
Nope. My theater is still under construction. We’ll see how it all works out. DBA is well understood and I’m aware of its limitations.

Thing is, in residential private cinema you can’t add enough Sabines of LF absorption to get reflection decay time (RdT) to reasonable levels at low frequencies.
 
I have 2 JL Audio f113's v1. Both have had hum issues. I got 1 of the f113's repaired after its warranty was up. The other f113 had the hum issue last year and when I reached out to Taylor Hansen from JL Audio he told me about the policy change. Needless to say I will never buy a JL Audio product or Garmin product again.

I would have to say that the policy change must have come when Garmin took over JL Audio but I could be wrong.
 
Audiophilehi said:
I have 2 JL Audio f113's v1. Both have had hum issues. I got 1 of the f113's repaired after its warranty was up. The other f113 had the hum issue last year and when I reached out to Taylor Hansen from JL Audio he told me about the policy change. Needless to say I will never buy a JL Audio product or Garmin product again.

I would have to say that the policy change must have come when Garmin took over JL Audio but I could be wrong.
Click to expand...
Not defending JLA but the Fathom v1s have been around for over 20 years. Curious how old yours were when they started to hum? I owned 4 bought second hand, 2 of them had a slight hum, not noticeable when playing music, but I wanted to investigate what it would cost for the repair. When I sent JLA the serial numbers they confirmed they were from mid - 2000s. I had both amps replaced by them for around $550 including shipping, well worth it.

Should those repairs have been FOC after 20 years or?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top