JL subs

[sb6]

Late to the topic but my comments FWIW.

JL Audio had problems with some subs years back. As I understand it, version 2 F series and E and D series do not have cap issues.

In terms of sonics, the reference Fathom line is very good and IME / IMO better than comparable Rel subs. I wouldn't put SVS in the same category as they're really HT subs and not of the same caliber of quality output, especially for music.

With regard to folks saying they "can't integrate them with the mains", that's not the sub, that's your inability to know how to integrate them. I've integrated $200 subs perfectly, and completely inaudible from the mains. Never had a problem integrating Rel, JL Audio, etc. Hire a known professional to get what you paid for if you're not up to the task.

Finally, I've owned Rel, JL Audio, Elac, SVS and heard pretty much all of the usual suspects and then some, IME the best sub for music is Perlisten, especially the D21x reference series. I own 2: D215S subs, check out the uber - low distortion #s via a push - pull configuration, levels better than the 4 Fathoms subs I had previously (which were vg IMO) and better than Rel, etc. And BTW, anyone who's bought into the Rel 6 pack stacked next to mains knows nothing about sub integration, including Rel themselves, but it looks cool. ;-)

 

[W9TR]

I have a JL Audio Gotham v1 which has been trouble-free since new. It’s a big dual 13” driver sub that sounds great with music and has enough volume displacement to work well for HT.

I am building a dedicated HT and will use 4 Monoproce THX 13” in a double bass array (DBA).

In a DBA the rear subs are delayed by the time it takes a wave front to travel from the front subs to the rears. The rears are phase inverted so they cancel the wave from the front subs, dramatically reducing standing waves and LF response bumps.

Should be fun experiment.

 

[Michaels HiFi]

I have a JL Audio Gotham v1 which has been trouble-free since new. It’s a big dual 13” driver sub that sounds great with music and has enough volume displacement to work well for HT.

I am building a dedicated HT and will use 4 Monoproce THX 13” in a double bass array (DBA).

In a DBA the rear subs are delayed by the time it takes a wave front to travel from the front subs to the rears. The rears are phase inverted so they cancel the wave from the front subs, dramatically reducing standing waves and LF response bumps.

Should be fun experiment.

Sounds like it will be fun. Be sure to keep up updated on how it goes.

 

[sb6]

I have a JL Audio Gotham v1 which has been trouble-free since new. It’s a big dual 13” driver sub that sounds great with music and has enough volume displacement to work well for HT.

I am building a dedicated HT and will use 4 Monoproce THX 13” in a double bass array (DBA).

In a DBA the rear subs are delayed by the time it takes a wave front to travel from the front subs to the rears. The rears are phase inverted so they cancel the wave from the front subs, dramatically reducing standing waves and LF response bumps.

Should be fun experiment.

Curious if you've ever measured to confirm the cancellation. I'm betting it's marginally effective at best as it's not as simple as - the rear wave cancels the front as sound isn't uni - directional, it bounces all over the room with axial, tangential and oblique modes. Sure, axial modes are the most prominent, but by far it's not that simple. It also depends on your room size, your speaker location and your listening location. As with most things, devil is in the details. Measure, adjust, then listen for a final dial - in.

 

[sb6]

Curious if you've ever measured to confirm the cancellation. I'm betting it's marginally effective at best as it's not as simple as - the rear wave cancels the front as sound isn't uni - directional, it bounces all over the room with axial, tangential and oblique modes. Sure, axial modes are the most prominent, but by far it's not that simple. It also depends on your room size, your speaker location and your listening location. As with most things, devil is in the details. I might suggest side wall or side offset, again, depends on room, ss, speaker location. Measure, adjust, then listen for a final dial - in.