Electrical advice

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Solecky

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Dec 24, 2013
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71
Location
Stillwater, NY
I have Ayre mxr20s and each is plugged into its own dedicated outlet via a SHUNYATA sigma NR power cord. On one of the outlets when I plug the amp in it sparks at the outlet and sometimes triggers the protection circuitry to kick in on amp. Eventually after a few attempts it works but the other line does not do this please advise. Should I call an electrician?
 
I say you either have an old worn out outlet which needs replacing or you have a loose connection or short circuit in the outlet itself. Replace it, their cheap. If you need an electrician depends on your knowledge of the job. Call a electrician.
 
Perhaps a first step might be to purchase from one of the big box stores a circuit tester.
Its a small handheld device that plugs into a wall receptacle. It has a series of 3 lights that will light up in various patterns depending on wether the receptacle is wired properly or not. Cost less than $20. Good to have on hand to check all of your home for safety.
 
Could be nothing, could be something especially if you smell a burning going on.

Be safe, call an electrician and while there have them also check out the circuit breaker at the panel, polarity and grounding.


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a] a 3 LED tester will only find a few problems, but it's a start.
b] a 'Kill-a-Watt' meter will find voltage and high current draw problems.
c] neither will find 'bootleg ground' problems. For that you need a more expensive electricians meter.
 
UltraFast69 said:
Could be nothing, could be something especially if you smell a burning going on.

Be safe, call an electrician and while there have them also check out the circuit breaker at the panel, polarity and grounding.


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Agree, LIke I noted , if you dont have the electrical knowledge to troubleshoot the problem, you could do more damage by trying.. The electricians in my area run $75-$100 a hour. Like Ultra noted, while he is there and on your dime have he check your breaker and ground.
 
If you have an arc jump from the outlet it would seem the amp has a large enough draw even when turned off to cause this.

Do both amps exhibit the same issue on that outlet? If so call the electrician as suggested. If not possibly the amp is drawing more current than it should.
 
Never plug a device into an outlet with the device on. The arc you see is about 9,000 degree and melting your cord ends and socket.

What in the world does after a few tries it works mean? Are you saying the device is plugged in but it does not work?

Replace the outlet. Go online and purchase a Porter Port from Albert Porter. Turn off the power at the breaker then replace it. If enough wire is present in the electrical box, clip the ends, restrip and terminate.

If the leads are burned on your cord, send the cord to Shinyata for repair.

Audio power cords are stiff. Try and flash the cord out so it inserts without a twist into the new receptacle. That twist is acting like a spreader bar in the receptacle prying open the clamps holding the blades tight. They are now floppily touching the blades on your plug, not making good contact and burning themselves further from positive contact.
 
I have never seen that in 30 years, but not to say it could not happen. I guess a person in a really old building where no ground is present may feel jumping the neutral over to the ground is a good idea. It's not. Use a 2 plug outlet. The one without a ground hole. If he did and made the reversed hot to ground and neutral, That would make the case hot on his amp. If he touched the case and a grounded interconnect he would get the full 120 volts. It still should not spark until the circuit is closed which is his body completing the circuit by touching the grounded interconnect and hot case. Much the same as your lips touching the grounded mic with fingers on hot guitar strings.

What ever the wiring issue, which could be dangerous and why I tell people never lift the ground to rid ground loops. Bonding properly is better. Always ground. Anyhow, replacing the plug (and maybe checking the panel, who knows what a fool did in there) will fix the receptacle. You can put a volt meter in the cord and it test it for continuity. It wont lie. Hot should only be hot etc.
 
Kingrex said:
I have never seen that in 30 years, but not to say it could not happen. I guess a person in a really old building where no ground is present may feel jumping the neutral over to the ground is a good idea. It's not. Use a 2 plug outlet. The one without a ground hole. If he did and made the reversed hot to ground and neutral, That would make the case hot on his amp. If he touched the case and a grounded interconnect he would get the full 120 volts. It still should not spark until the circuit is closed which is his body completing the circuit by touching the grounded interconnect and hot case. Much the same as your lips touching the grounded mic with fingers on hot guitar strings.
What ever the wiring issue, which could be dangerous and why I tell people never lift the ground to rid ground loops. Bonding properly is better. Always ground. Anyhow, replacing the plug (and maybe checking the panel, who knows what a fool did in there) will fix the receptacle. You can put a volt meter in the cord and it test it for continuity. It wont lie. Hot should only be hot etc.
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This is all so, so true.

In the US there is now a solution to a 2 pin receptacle and a 3 pin plug. The old 2 pin receptacle (with 2 wire system) can be replaced with a new 3 pin GFCI receptacle.
 
Solecky said:
I have Ayre mxr20s and each is plugged into its own dedicated outlet via a SHUNYATA sigma NR power cord. On one of the outlets when I plug the amp in it sparks at the outlet and sometimes triggers the protection circuitry to kick in on amp. Eventually after a few attempts it works but the other line does not do this please advise. Should I call an electrician?
Click to expand...
Have you tried reversing the amps connection at the wall to see if it follows the amp or stays with the outlet?
 
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