Broke my S5s last night.

Magico is helpful and supportive but if damage was due to misuse and parts need to be replaced that will be at user's cost

Based on the information from the OP, playing LOUD without apparent distortion is not misuse. Hell, I would be in real trouble if that was the case :rolleyes:

It should be under warranty as something has failed.

Know doubt we will hear soon what the problem was.
 
I hate it when this shite happens. Sounds like Caelin really stepped up to the plate for you Bud, good luck with Magico. I don't think you'll have any problems at all.
 
So sorry to read this.
Methinks that with very powerful amps, no matter the power rating of the speaker, one should never go higher than 70% on the preamp. Instant transients of much more than the power handling rating if the speakers will arise.

The McIntosh Power Guard circuit is very useful to avoid damaging a driver, but yet it still happens with McIntosh too.
Hope that Magico will handle this worry in a satisfying way.
Good Luck !


Envoyé de mon iPhone à l'aide de Tapatalk
 
Sorry to hear this, Bud. Hopefully it's just driver(s) replacement, which is generally pretty easy to do. Hopefully Magico will make quick work of this either way!
 
Along with everyone else Bud I hope the repair is done quickly. I got a chuckle out of the solar credit comment. Too funny!



Sent from my mobile.
 
I doubt that you did anything to cause this problem. Magico should step up and resolve your issue, quickly. I hope that the outcome is smooth and easy for you.
 
Will watch with interest as to how amicably the manufacturer resolves your product repair dilemma. You have a current generation product model that may not have a valid warranty or be outside of warranty given that the warranty was not transferable and/or expired.

Notwithstanding, your current generation S5 should be made good again any which way.

Generally, manufacturers have an obligation to make good for a period up to 10 years & in many countries have a statutory obligation to carry spare parts for this time. The reality is that in recent years, this has often not been the case. A manufacturer may elect to replace new for old depending upon circumstance, eg condition, nature of fault, age etc. Great if it is an exact replacement, eg NOS. However, if it is a generational substitution, a depreciation offset factor could be applied even if within the warranty period. Nothing worse than if your flagship is replaced with a later lesser model offer. I find this practice deplorable, but it appears to be an exercisable loophole that manufacturers are taking advantage of in many regions around the world. More often than not, the replacement offer is not actually technically superior, but it is a legal out for the manufacturer upholding their product support obligation. An example of a company that does this is Samsung.

Lifetime is not your natural lifetime. How many of you have been sold the promise that loudspeakers are a lifetime investment? How many of you have been sold the promise that their loudspeaker purchase should last a lifetime if used properly? Properly means according to manufacturers recommendations which includes within specification & regular use... I have tested this claim with loudspeakers that I own which are now greater than 10 years old. I was lucky enough to get some replacement spare parts for my surrounds prior to their exhaustion which are of the same series match to my fronts, but that's it. No more support.

The reality is that if you want your uber expensive loudspeakers to last you a lifetime especially where a lifetime is expected to be greater than 10 years, be prepared to buy and carry your own spare parts stock outside of warranty...i.e. Up to a full set of crossovers and drivers. The chances are if your manufacturer is still around then (& who knows nowadays), they may not have the replacements and/or will no longer provide repair or support. They would rather steer you into buying something new.

Given the price point of the S5s, I would expect the manufacturer to extend themselves. I hope Magico also elects to buck the trend & becomes one of those timeless companies that will continue to stand by their products irrespective of vintage.
 
Sorry to hear this, Bud. Hopefully it's just driver(s) replacement, which is generally pretty easy to do. Hopefully Magico will make quick work of this either way!

I'm on the side that's a driver replacement. That's not to much work to do.

But I think is better this to have everything stolen like our Friend Bob had and in the end He is a very happy camper now.
So, don't take it to hard, is only material and $$ can replace it.
You have us to sheer you up or even lend you a different pair, right Mike?

:)
 
I have been told, repeatedly, by manufacturers that it is not a bad thing to run my preamp at or near maximum on the volume scale. They tell me that it makes for better sound. Of course, I am not speaking about volume that blows out my speakers. I currently have an Ayre preamp and amp, and run it just about wide open or close to it. Ayre has told me that is a good thing.
 
I believe XP-20 volume goes up to 83.

That's right. For some reason I thought it went to 100, but I just ran it up, and it stops at 83. I didn't realize I had it maxed out. Now I have to get another preamp so I can play it louder after it is fixed. :)
 
I have been told, repeatedly, by manufacturers that it is not a bad thing to run my preamp at or near maximum on the volume scale. They tell me that it makes for better sound. Of course, I am not speaking about volume that blows out my speakers. I currently have an Ayre preamp and amp, and run it just about wide open or close to it. Ayre has told me that is a good thing.
What you have been told is basically true, what you have to be careful of is driving your power amp beyond its output capabilities and into distortion. With some pre/power amp pairings you can run the preamp at its highest volume setting and not be pushing the amp past its limits, while with other combinations a lower volume setting could do so and ultimately cause damage to your speakers. So you have to know your system well and exercise reasonable caution with the volume control. Sometimes by the time you hear your amp starting to misbehave (i.e. clipping distortion) it's too late and the damage may already be done. :(
 
That's right. For some reason I thought it went to 100, but I just ran it up, and it stops at 83. I didn't realize I had it maxed out. Now I have to get another preamp so I can play it louder after it is fixed. :)



You are confusing too many different things here.
Any amp can be driven too hard. It is simple math; according to Pass spec your amp puts out maximum of 30.8 dB. Drive that into a 88db efficient speakers and you getting a maximum of 118.8 dB output. Once you hit that, your amp is done. Once it is done, hell break loose. Playing 110db (instantaneous peaks will be 10 -20 dB higher than that), and you may have simply done that. Once a surge of voltage comes in, the amp will ultimately reach its limits, and will clip or oscillate. If you want to play louder on a 88db loudspeakers that can take that kind of power (looks like the S5 can, that is why you have not sensed any stress), you got to buy a bigger amp. In this case, the speakers are just collateral damage.
 
Lvb

Could you explain how you come up with the 118 db for his amp/speaker combination? I know this should be moved to a whole new thread, but it is something that I have thought about a lot recently. Just curious the equation that we can use to come up with 118 db and also what the 30.8 represents on the spec sheet. I know as a dealer I should know a lot of this but I am not familiar with how some of this works. I'll just use a rule if you want to add 3DB then double your power or add another speaker. Or obviously go to a more efficient speaker.
 
Lvb

Could you explain how you come up with the 118 db for his amp/speaker combination? I know this should be moved to a whole new thread, but it is something that I have thought about a lot recently. Just curious the equation that we can use to come up with 118 db and also what the 30.8 represents on the spec sheet. I know as a dealer I should know a lot of this but I am not familiar with how some of this works. I'll just use a rule if you want to add 3DB then double your power or add another speaker. Or obviously go to a more efficient speaker.

Looks to me it's simple math 30.8 + 88 = 118.8 dB
 
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