Anyone upgrade a power cord on their TT?

jeremyjustice

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Hi guys, I hope I can post this thread without getting a lecture in internet science but I have been intrigued by power cord upgrades. Unfortunately my vintage McIntosh gear dont have IEC plugs so the only piece of gear I could experiment with would be my Garrard 401. Has anyone tried a power cord upgrade on a turntable and do you feel it makes a difference in sound? Don't worry I'm not looking for any double blind test, scientifically proven hard data, just your casual listening impressions, thanks so much guys
 
Hi Jeremy,

Right now I'm only using the stock power cable on my Classic 2 but this weekend, I'm going to be swapping some gear around to trial a couple of new phono stages. While doing the re-arrangement I had planned on installing one of my own power cords (2M - 11Ga Avanti Audio Allegro) just because I have an extra one floating around. If I notice any difference, I'll report back my findings.

It's my understanding that on a TT, they won't likely make much difference, but I'm willing to give it a go. If nothing else, then I'll have matching cables with the other gear that accepts IEC here.

I also need to install my new cartridge over the weekend so I need to be careful not to throw too many things into the mix at one time.
 
I tried it a while back. Made no difference whatsoever.


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I just received a MapleShade catalog and they have an easy-to-experiment-with item called a Clearview Doulble Helix AC Cord kit ( sounds like an ice-skating move from the Olympics LOL).
The short of it is: you clip the powercord on your unit, leaving about 3"; strip the wires and splice this baby on and you'e good to go. Supposedly better because it doesn't set up any bad sounding dielectrics...
I'm thinking about trying it on my JVC QL-A7 and my Onkyo A7 Integrated - feedback here if I do.

I started a thread asking if anyone has used this item - so far no replys (it might be really that new...).

ENJOY YOUR MUSIC. Bill
 
Mike - instead of a fancy power cord for your turntable, I found the VPI SDS yielded the best results for me.
 
Guys ..just to be clear...there is no connection in a turntable between power and audio...omg..if there was, we would be in trouble

The power is used strictly to run the platter and any circuit based auto functions. It does not run through nor attach to the cart/tonearm/rca's. The electrical signal used is generated by the coil in the cart through the wires to your RCA's. Period.

"Oh yeah mister smarty pants, then why do I need a ground cable" Good question Simon, I will endeavor to answer.

The ground wire is used to ground the chassis so no electrical interference can come into play as a 60hz "hum". A ground is basically a loop of energy that needs some place to go, always following the path of least resistance. If you don't have a ground wire, there where is that chassis ground loop of energy going to go ? Well, since the tonearm is on the chassis, there is a good spot !!! It will now create electrical interference. Since the cart is so sensitive (4.0mv MM or .4mv moving coil...we are talking small) it will be presented as a hum...a steady electrically induced signal as that energy exits the RCA's along with your audio signal.

"Okay professor, if that's true, why do I have a friend who has a turntable and no ground wire AND no hum". Another good question.

It can be one of two reasons. If the TT maker utilized a 3 prong plug, then the table is grounded via the AC ground wire. Adding another in fact could CAUSE a hum as you would create a ground loop.

Another reasons could be the designer used the RCA shielded end as the ground (not my cup of tea) to send that nasty old loop of energy away.

"gee..you seem to know what you are talking about. Okay, would it help my sound if I got a really good power cord !!!" Hmm...

Changing your power cord should have no affect on audio quality whatsoever unless the original cord is faulty . In fact, some changes could be detrimental. Say you changed from a 2 prong to a 3 prong grounded. You run the risk of introducing a ground loop, potentially getting house ground noise into the chassis and into the audio stream. I say potentially as the ground wire may help or may actually create the dreaded ground loop.

The best bet here is isolation. Your power is to run your platter a the correct speed and your cartridge supplies the millivolts of energy to become music. Any cross of the two is detrimental and changing the one (AC cord) has no significant benefit.

Homework for tonight
Why does a tonearm have a separate ground wire and why is it often connected to the same ground as the chassis?
 
No but where you plug the DC switch mode power supply that powers many turntables may affect the performance of other equipment.
 
scientifically speaking, i agree with rob. lol. just spins the motor on belt drives. and has nothing to do with your cartridge picking up sound from your record. on my table the motor could even be put on another shelf. but there was a cable guy on here, forgot his name, that told me his power cords would make a big difference on my last table which was a classic. i didnt bite on that.lol.
 
Jeremy, since your 401 is idler drive, the biggest thing you should strive for is to minimize unwanted vibrations to the platter/plinth/tonearm. There are new springs, bearings, motor refit kits to help with that/restore it. What i would suggest though, is that you replace the original wire with a new one (not needing audiophile cord here but basic) for snug plug contact in the outlet and increased safety. I believe there is a ground screw on the motor, so a three prong cord can be used. Should cost you $20 and an hour's assembly.
 
Mike - Yes, the SDS is a good upgrade. Not on my agenda right now, but maybe down the road.

Rob - I don't like homework any more now than when I was young. As I said in my first post, "they won't likely make much difference"....and you guys have confirmed that understanding.
 
Thanks ohbythebay for the info and clarifications... So I'll only experiment with the MapleShade on my Onkyo Integrated...
I'll investigate the isolation aspects further (heading out to get some tennis balls - LOL).
Thanks again. Bill
 
Actually any power conditioner on the TT motor would probably improve the stability of the signal coming in, and improve the performance of the motor. An SDS would be ideal though.
 
It's generally just a DC motor that turns a platter. If the motor can't draw the required amps then it will probably slow down & the speed will be inconsistent. I've seen it happen due to a faulty DC plug.
 
Mike - instead of a fancy power cord for your turntable, I found the VPI SDS yielded the best results for me.

+1, I personally use a Walker Audio Ultimate Motor Controller but it's the same principle. Interestingly the Walker Motor Controller is highly sensitive to power cords, go figure!
 
Energy produce vibrations and those micro vibrations goes to the platter and the needle pickup those micro vibrations , so yes they work IMO
 
Energy produce vibrations and those micro vibrations goes to the platter and the needle pickup those micro vibrations , so yes they work IMO

I would agree with you on a direct drive Nelson, even an idle drive but I don't see your reasoning on a belt drive table.
 
I would agree with you on a direct drive Nelson, even an idle drive but I don't see your reasoning on a belt drive table.

Belts absorb the micro vibrations and from there goes to the platter and so on.
Bad dirty current combined with the noise any motor produce, obligatory makes unwanted
Vibrations that goes to the pulley that drives the belt and so on.

But is my theory is not a fact
 
Belts absorb the micro vibrations and from there goes to the platter and so on.
Bad dirty current combined with the noise any motor produce, obligatory makes unwanted
Vibrations that goes to the pulley that drives the belt and so on.

But is my theory is not a fact

I guess we will agree to disagree :snicker:

You're still a good man Nelson.
 
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