Your opinion on my weakest link.

I think the room and treatments are excellent and definitely not too many - its a beautiful space. If you want to increase "resolution", one MUST get the room acoustics addressed and spkr setup dialed in - full stop.

You have put in a lot of effort on room construction as well as addressing some of the key acoustic elements AND its a dedicated space, so you are way ahead of the curve and not at the limitations of a living room/shared space. Certainly, you can get great results in those spaces, but that's not my point.

The low end is a problem with every room, no way around it and it's how one addresses specific room modes and low end issues unique to each space. Multiple subs, definitely worth considering. Replacing gear can only do so much and isn't an answer at this point IMHO. Getting the most out of your current rig would be the first step IMHO (especially spkr setup and listening position).

Ceilings in the 7ft-8ft range are not helping either, but you work with what one has. Implementing the correct treatment is pretty key - again throwing gear at a "problem" will only do so much and that goes for acoustics as well. People spend 5k-10k on cables, but don't address the acoustics - which I understand can be space/room dependent, which isn't your case. However, spending $$ on proper acoustics, spkr setup + listening position will provide more benefit than some new gear, generally speaking. Again I think it comes down to priorities and how much does one want to get out of their rig and that won't be fully realized with any setup without the aforementioned. Good sound vs. great etc..

New spkrs may be part of the answer, but again I would exhaust the other items mentioned first. My .02
 
Very, very nice room and system. However, since you asked for opinions I would go for a Pass Labs amp and preamp. There are a few big name companies that I just don't care for and Krell is one of them. Good luck and I hope I didn't hurt any feelings.
 
treitz3 said:
Hello all. You cannot just change out parts in the G1 to make it a G2, FYI.

What types of upstream from the streamer devices do you have to help eradicate the noise(s) from being introduced to your Auralic? If you have not optimized these aspects, then I would suggest looking into this.

Tom
Click to expand...

Hi Tom.
Absolutely right. Ive learned about the DJM Gigafoilv4 and have placed an order for one. That along with a Supra Cat 8 + ethernet cable - thanks Craig - Im exited to hear the improvements.
 
Hear Here said:
My experience with all 3 of the "room correction DSP" systems I've used that are built into full-range amps is that all this extra Signal Processing does no favours to the top end, despite the fact that this top end isn't ADJUSTED. The trouble is (in my opinion) that the entire signal has to pass through the processor and a little of the "goose-bump" factor is lost because of this complex processor. The precious signal cannot avoid the DSP if applied to a full-range amp.

In an active syatem with amps for each range of frequencies, DSP can be applied solely to the bass amp, while the mid and top reaches their amps totally unmolested by DSP. My Avantgarde Duo XD speakers allow this as they have DSP built into their bass amps. If I engage a Dirac Live filter in my main amp, a little of the magic is lost, even though the bass may be a little flatter. Therefore I leave Dirac Live with No Filter but I do my best (not very well) to set the Avantgarde's XD software for best bass response.

I found exactly the same problem with RoomPrefect in Lyngdorf amp and MARS in Micromega amp.

The acoustic of my 945 sq ft semi-circular room with floor-to-ceiling glazing on the curved wall was predictably dire when I first moved here, but addition of 30% carpetting, curtains (never closed) and more soft furnishings, plus very careful speaker placement and setup have improved matters such that I'm happy with no DSP and no artificial room treatment.

Good luck with your adventure.
Click to expand...

Thanks and appreciate your opinions. Hope you will continue to add
 
Alkyogre said:
A whole list, sorry mate you have nice stuff by the way, but improvements are possible

- source was mentioned before
- an audiophile network switch is missing with separate lineair power supply
- the dac could have a better lineair power supply
- I donÂ’t know how the dac is hooked, but if it is USB an extra USB isolator can be added
- do the speakers have antivibration stands? All stuff clear up if you place it on antivibration stands
- this one had an enormous impact on my set: power everything on a separate group on your fuse box and take an audiophilic fuse
- take better powercables on everything
Click to expand...

USB Isolator?? Which one would you recommend? I assume this is a noise reduction device.
 
mulveling said:
It feels like people who ask the "weak link" question either have an obvious weak link, or have a beautiful & well balanced system like yours - lol! Speaker choice and speaker / amp matching are huge - but based on personal preference. Sometimes it just takes iterations & trials to know if you've settled on the right match, but if you absolutely love what you've got now then it's safer to stick with it.

That is a lot of acoustic treatments, with no other furnishings. It it were me, I'd at least try it with a bit less treatment and a bit more cozy / inviting / hybrid of a space though I can't prescribe what that might look like for you, given this is a 100% dedicated audio room. I like a couch, rug, and shelves with vinyl LPs for starters. Maybe some other decorations or visual points of interest. The mindset I gain from feeling "relaxed at home" helps the audio experience as much as anything.

On power conditioning: when I added a Niagara 7000 to the big rig - I didn't feel it took my sound forward, though I stick with it for the protection. In my smaller rig I tried a Niagara 3000 and thought it actually hurt the sound a little, versus a dirt cheap Furman strip. I've also tried a PS Audio P12 with little if any gain, though the UI was super cool. Ugh. Maybe I have good power? Good power cords on the amps (AQ Hurricanes, or even NRG-1000's on a budget) DOES make a nice difference, though.

Agree with the usual chorus of "vinyl source". At least find out if you like it. I loved it - it's the only source for me :)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. Always appreciated.
 
Swisstrips said:
I think the room and treatments are excellent and definitely not too many - its a beautiful space. If you want to increase "resolution", one MUST get the room acoustics addressed and spkr setup dialed in - full stop.

You have put in a lot of effort on room construction as well as addressing some of the key acoustic elements AND its a dedicated space, so you are way ahead of the curve and not at the limitations of a living room/shared space. Certainly, you can get great results in those spaces, but that's not my point.

The low end is a problem with every room, no way around it and it's how one addresses specific room modes and low end issues unique to each space. Multiple subs, definitely worth considering. Replacing gear can only do so much and isn't an answer at this point IMHO. Getting the most out of your current rig would be the first step IMHO (especially spkr setup and listening position).

Ceilings in the 7ft-8ft range are not helping either, but you work with what one has. Implementing the correct treatment is pretty key - again throwing gear at a "problem" will only do so much and that goes for acoustics as well. People spend 5k-10k on cables, but don't address the acoustics - which I understand can be space/room dependent, which isn't your case. However, spending $$ on proper acoustics, spkr setup + listening position will provide more benefit than some new gear, generally speaking. Again I think it comes down to priorities and how much does one want to get out of their rig and that won't be fully realized with any setup without the aforementioned. Good sound vs. great etc..

New spkrs may be part of the answer, but again I would exhaust the other items mentioned first. My .02
Click to expand...

Agree!!
 
stereogeek said:
Very, very nice room and system. However, since you asked for opinions I would go for a Pass Labs amp and preamp. There are a few big name companies that I just don't care for and Krell is one of them. Good luck and I hope I didn't hurt any feelings.
Click to expand...

Ha! No feelings have been hurt by your comment. For the money, Krell 302e with 600wpc gave me years of total enjoyment.
That said, I've heard other amps that draw me closer to the music and the Krell amp/pre is not my last setup.
 
The Bodiezaffa said:
Hey there.

I have 4 PS Audio Power Ports. Each port (2 receptacles) is connected to its own 20 amp line.
Click to expand...

Just be mindful of the fact that a "dedicated line" only functions to provide maximal current during dynamic passages. Unless a dedicated line is isolated by being run in metal conduit, it is still susceptible to the impact of RF and EMI, and the length of AC wiring run through walls to a wall receptacle makes if a really effective antenna for picking up RFI and EMI*. Also be mindful that much of the noise in an audio system comes from the full-wave bridge rectifiers in the power supplies of the components themselves.

Lots of folks still think that the AC "flows" from the wall receptacle in only one direction from the wall -> to the component. This is absolutely not true: it's AC...alternating current; the current ALTERNATES in BOTH directions, and in the USA, at 60 times/second. It is not like water flowing through a hose from a faucet to a sprinkler. The current goes BOTH ways: into the component and...back OUT of the component. And during dynamic passages not only can there be reactance on the AC mains when the rectifiers pull hard on the AC mains, resulting in LESS current than required rather than more, but when the power supply's rectifiers snap shut afterwards, they can send transient noise out of the component's power supplies. This noise travels back out of the component to source components "upstream" of say, the amp or preamp, because...it's alternating current. This is why it's very helpful to have a noise reduction filter on the end of the power cord that connects to the component's IEC receptacle that prevents these noise components coming back out of the components' power supply to contribute noise to the upstream source components. Dedicated lines do nothing to prevent this.

* – videos I made documenting with data the amount of RF on the AC wiring in our homes.

Shunyata Research Venom 14 Digital power cord demonstration - YouTube

V14D Demo Part 2 - YouTube
 
Puma Cat said:
Just be mindful of the fact that a "dedicated line" only functions to provide maximal current during dynamic passages. Unless a dedicated line is isolated by being run in metal conduit, it is still susceptible to the impact of RF and EMI, and the length of AC wiring run through walls to a wall receptacle makes if a really effective antenna for picking up RFI and EMI*. Also be mindful that much of the noise in an audio system comes from the full-wave bridge rectifiers in the power supplies of the components themselves.
Click to expand...


Stephen...if only we were mates during construction.
So, since Im not breaking drywall, is there any solution at panel end or after receptacle I should consider... that doesn't cost an arm or leg?
 
The Bodiezaffa said:
Stephen...if only we were mates during construction.
So, since Im not breaking drywall, is there any solution at panel end or after receptacle I should consider... that doesn't cost an arm or leg?
Click to expand...

Hey Mark,
I can't define for you what "cost an arm or leg" means, but the most effective ways to mitigate the impact of various noise components from AC mains to components, and back is to use a NR power cord for the components and an NR power distributor from the wall AC mains, and powering the components in the system. That provides NR for "both" directions, coming IN to the system components and concomitantly, back OUT of the component power supplies.

The little videos I made demonstrate with data the effectiveness of even the entry-level Venom V14 NR power cords at the "back end" (i.e., the component end). You'll get the same benefits, to a larger magnitude, using their power distributors at the "front end". Even Shunyata's entry-level PS10 power distributor, which sells for $900, provides something like -24dB of noise reduction. That's not insignificant, in fact, it's about the same magnitude of NR that was provided by their $5000+ Triton v1 back in the day. For 900 bucks. In fact, I use the little PS10 as the power distributor for my home theatre system and the Venom NR v14 for my HDTV, and you can see visually the improvement it provides by the increased video quality: "blacker blacks" (which you can see with your own eyes), more saturated, natural color and improved resolution, as well as improved hi-def audio.

So, I would get best-spec Shunyata power distributor you can afford, and the highest-spec NR power cords you can afford; at the very least for the power amp, preamp and DAC. For example, the Venom V10 NR power cords are excellent for this application. If you have the budget for the Venom V16 power distributor, get that. Each bank is fully isolated from the other, so you could use one bank for home theatre and the other bank for the stereo system, for example. It also provides a GP-NR terminal so you can connect an Altaira ground-plane noise reduction hub to it if you decide to get one.

Over the years, I've tried various, but not all, AC power distributors and power cords and found Shunyata's to provide the best performance in my system. I use their products quite simply because...THEY WORK. Furthermore, they are durable; i.e., they work and...don't break. It's the exactly same reason I use Snap-On tools when working on my sport bikes or shot with Canon pro bodies and lenses for motorsports photojournalism for many years: they work and don't break. Cheers.
DuelTurn2.jpg
 
Puma Cat said:
Hey Mark,
It's the exactly same reason I use Snap-On tools when working on my sport bikes or shot with Canon pro bodies and lenses for motorsports photojournalism for many years: they work and don't break. Cheers.
DuelTurn2.jpg
Click to expand...



I've been using Snap on tool since the early 70's and I still have all of them. Had a few ratchets replaced, under warrant but heck they were 70's. But we all know, It's all about the Snap On calendars man. If you've seen one, you know why the tools sell.:D
 
The Bodiezaffa said:
I know little about room correction but from what ive read, its not a well liked option. Too many downsides for little upsides.
Click to expand...

You must be reading about DSP in the wrong places. Paraphrasing the Oldsmobile commercial: today's DSP is not your father's DSP. The cost-benefit analysis of properly-done DSP compared to fancy cables/cords/etc is way superior.
 
nicoff said:
The cost-benefit analysis of properly-done DSP compared to fancy cables/cords/etc is way superior.
Click to expand...

Who said anything about that? What I saw about cables was about reducing noise in the system.

What I always recommend is getting the room physically acoustically treated first along with a couple of properly placed and tuned subwoofers. Then, if you still feel further tweaking is necessary beyond the scope of the room treatments and subs, then use DSP as a last resort.
 
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