X250.8 Fuse Blown?

T

tino27

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Joined
May 23, 2017
Messages
181
Location
Ohio, USA
So we've been having some very strong wind gusts here today in northeast Ohio and one of them knocked out the power very briefly. Everything cycled back on okay except for my X250.8. I've tried turning it off and on again with the rocker switch on the back, cycling it off and on again using the push button switch on the front. Even tried unplugging from the wall and plugging back in. Nada.

I suspect I may have blown the protection fuse in the amp. I do have the replacement fuse that came with the amp. Three questions:

1) Is there an easy way of telling whether the fuse is blown?
2) Any advice on replacing the fuse without damaging anything? I know enough to unplug the amp while the fuse is being changed, but any advice on which tool to use to get the old one out?
3) I'm assuming the blown fuse is located between the IEC inlet and the power rocker switch?

Any advice would be most welcome!

(Note: I did consult the owner's manual. Not a lot of help.)
 
Do not change before 24 or 48 hours in order to allow time to discharge the capacitors ...
 
Well, that won't be a problem because I can't figure out how to get the fuse holder open without scratching the hell out of the casing (which I obviously would like to avoid).
 
Since you have a factory replacement fuse, did you take the top cover off and see if you can find the fuse that is identical to the replacement fuse? Do you have a DVM? If so, once you pull the fuse out from the holder you can check for continuity from one side of the fuse to the other. If you don’t have a DVM, but you have found the correct fuse, just remove it gently with your fingers and replace it with the new one.
 
So we've been having some very strong wind gusts here today in northeast Ohio
That's an understatement to say the least!
Lorain harbor saw some 75 MPH gusts.
The Brown's football stadium, which is more protected from WSW winds, still saw some gusts in the high 50's during the game (same story as two weeks ago).
Fairport Harbor had some 70 MPH gusts.
 
mep said:
Since you have a factory replacement fuse, did you take the top cover off and see if you can find the fuse that is identical to the replacement fuse? Do you have a DVM? If so, once you pull the fuse out from the holder you can check for continuity from one side of the fuse to the other. If you don’t have a DVM, but you have found the correct fuse, just remove it gently with your fingers and replace it with the new one.
Click to expand...

Is the fuse inside the chassis? I had assumed it was accessible from the outside in the spot between the IEM power inlet and the power rocker switch.

I'm assuming that DVM = Digital Volt Meter?
 
From the manual

"The larger amps do not have any user serviceable fuses. On
these larger amplifiers the rear panel switch is a thermal magnetic circuit breaker."
 
Jack said:
From the manual

"The larger amps do not have any user serviceable fuses. On
these larger amplifiers the rear panel switch is a thermal magnetic circuit breaker."
Click to expand...

So how did his amp come with a replacement fuse if there are no user serviceable fuses?
 
Call Pass Labs tomorrow and explain the situation to them and see what they recommend.
 
Like you said he'll have to wait until in the morning until Pass or Reno opens up to find out. From the photo on Pass' website doesn't look like an active fuse holder next to the IEC to me.
 
On the rear panel is a master switch and additionally a fuse holder on the smaller amps. The fuse holder accepts type 3AG (6.3mm x 32mm) 250 volt glass fuses of the slow blow variety.

Please consult the Pass Laboratories factory if you have any question on these fuses or need replacements. The larger amps do not have any user serviceable fuses. On these larger amplifiers the rear panel switch is a thermal magnetic circuit breaker.

https://www.passlabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/Point-8-amps_om.pdf
Click to expand...

You also have a XP-22? It uses a fuse doesn’t it? Check the type of fuse you have. Is it type 3AG (6.3mm x 32mm) 250 volt glass fuses of the slow blow variety? If not, then depending upon the rest of your equipment, it might go with your XP-22 and not your amp.

Recheck that your power cord is properly plugged into the 250.8. Wiggle it in a little and see if it works. If it doesn’t, I would unplug my entire system. Then go back to my home breaker panel and power off every breaker that operates my system for 30 seconds and then toggle them back on. Then plug your system back in and see if it works. If it still doesn’t, then call Pass in the AM.


I wish you well.
 
Calvin said:
You also have a XP-22? It uses a fuse doesn’t it? Check the type of fuse you have. Is it type 3AG (6.3mm x 32mm) 250 volt glass fuses of the slow blow variety? If not, then depending upon the rest of your equipment, it might go with your XP-22 and not your amp.

Recheck that your power cord is properly plugged into the 250.8. Wiggle it in a little and see if it works. If it doesn’t, I would unplug my entire system. Then go back to my home breaker panel and power off every breaker that operates my system for 30 seconds and then toggle them back on. Then plug your system back in and see if it works. If it still doesn’t, then call Pass in the AM.


I wish you well.
Click to expand...

I do indeed have an XP-22. That came with an extra fuse as well in its own box. This one I definitely pulled out of the box from the X250.8. I'm extra certain of that because I pulled the jumper pins from the two XLR inputs (so I could use them) and put the pins in the same little baggie as the fuse so I wouldn't lose track of them.

I should also mentioned that I thought of the circuit breaker idea, too. Nothing appears to have been tripped and the UPC plugged into the other plug in the same outlet works perfectly fine.

Having to ship it back to Reno or Pass would really stink, but I'm not about to start digging around inside the chassis and end up voiding the warranty.

I guess I'll start with a call to Reno tomorrow afternoon and see where to go from there.
 
tino27 said:
I do indeed have an XP-22. That came with an extra fuse as well in its own box. This one I definitely pulled out of the box from the X250.8. I'm extra certain of that because I pulled the jumper pins from the two XLR inputs (so I could use them) and put the pins in the same little baggie as the fuse so I wouldn't lose track of them.

I should also mentioned that I thought of the circuit breaker idea, too. Nothing appears to have been tripped and the UPC plugged into the other plug in the same outlet works perfectly fine.

Having to ship it back to Reno or Pass would really stink, but I'm not about to start digging around inside the chassis and end up voiding the warranty.

I guess I'll start with a call to Reno tomorrow afternoon and see where to go from there.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you’ve covered all the bases then. I guess Pass must think a 250 amp is small. I wouldn’t have guessed that.... Maybe Reno will have another idea without you having to ship it back. Sorry ...
 
Is the amp plugged into an AC circuit also used by other gear? Or is it plugged into a dedicated AC line? If it is a dedicated line make sure the breaker hasn't tripped.
 
BlueFox said:
Is the amp plugged into an AC circuit also used by other gear? Or is it plugged into a dedicated AC line? If it is a dedicated line make sure the breaker hasn't tripped.
Click to expand...

The amp is plugged into an AC circuit used by other gear. That other gear is functioning normally. Also, I did check the breaker box and no breakers were tripped.
 
So, I talked with Mark from Reno a few moments ago ...

1) As I had suspected, the fuse holder *IS* on the rear of the chassis, between the IEC inlet and the on/off power switch.
2) This fuse *IS* user serviceable with the extra fuse that was included in the package.
3) The trick to removing the fuse holder is to use a small flat head screwdriver to pry open a little latch at the top of the holder and then use the screwdriver at the bottom of the fuse holder to begin to loosen the compartment. I was originally trying to just use the top latch to open it.

Once I got the fuse holder compartment out, it was super easy to replace the fuse. I once again have a working amplifier.

Also, I called Pass Labs to order some replacement fuses (since I am now fresh out) and they were nice enough to send me out a couple of new ones at no charge.

I wanted to post the resolution here so that anyone else might benefit from my 24 hours of panic. :)
 
Based on the images posted on Pass' product website, it looks like there is a user serviceable fuse on the 150.8, 250.8, and 260.8. I don't see one for the 350.8 or 600.8.
 
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