Sound Correction, Where to start first?

Agree whole heartedly with what Mike and Mike said in posts #7 & 10. I waited to treat my room until I knew my speaker/electronics pairing was fairly mature.

What I would also add before you spend any money on treatments is to lock in the speaker/listening positions. It's the cheapest thing to do but requires the most patience. If you don't have the time or patience, Jim Smith offers speaker placement services and I've heard is very effective. Do this to get the optimal speaker/room synergy that will give you the flattest frequency curve cross the spectrum, in particular the bass response. This will reduce, if not eliminate, the need for expensive bass treatments. It took me about 8 weeks of experimenting w the S5s in my room to find what I believe are the optimal positions. Even then, I'm considering using Jim's services to really get the positions locked in before I permanently install my vicoustic treatments. To Mike B's point, they are a pain to uninstall if needed.
 
Mike Lavigne said:
most room treatments are related to mid and high frequencies. and most speakers have mid-range and tweeters at your sitting listening height projecting at that same height. therefore the treatments should be common for every speaker with dynamic drivers. the room predicts where the speakers go for the most part, not the speakers.

toe in and toe out recommendations do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer based on specific design but first refection principles don't much vary unless you have a planar-dipole speaker.
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Agree! I think once you find a good SP/LP for one speaker, another speaker won't be too far off that mark, assuming similar frequency responses of the speaker.
 
socfan12 said:
Agree whole heartedly with what Mike and Mike said in posts #7 & 10. I waited to treat my room until I knew my speaker/electronics pairing was fairly mature.

What I would also add before you spend any money on treatments is to lock in the speaker/listening positions. It's the cheapest thing to do but requires the most patience. If you don't have the time or patience, Jim Smith offers speaker placement services and I've heard is very effective. Do this to get the optimal speaker/room synergy that will give you the flattest frequency curve cross the spectrum, in particular the bass response. This will reduce, if not eliminate, the need for expensive bass treatments. It took me about 8 weeks of experimenting w the S5s in my room to find what I believe are the optimal positions. Even then, I'm considering using Jim's services to really get the positions locked in before I permanently install my vicoustic treatments. To Mike B's point, they are a pain to uninstall if needed.
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Can you tell me a bit more about speaker/listening positions. I haven't a clue. I did, per Martin Logan, use the iPhone light and point it towards the speakers and looked for a specific reflection point and dialed in the speakers that way. I have the MLs 4 feet from the back wall and 20 inches the side walls.
 
Going to run out for some errands, will reply when I get back. I'm sure others will chime in. I think getting this right is most important to optimize your SQ.
 
LenWhite said:
When I asked AF about changing speakers I was told the room acoustics will not change for enclosed speakers such as my Raidho's. But a different "class" of speaker such as an electrostatic or bipolar speaker could potentially require some interior acoustic device changes.
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That is sound advice, pardon the pun. As I stated previously, the polar response (3d radiation) of the source will have a large impact on the room interaction and resulting sound at the LP. Thus any form of so called treatment should be based on both this and preference. Can't understate the latter. I suppose aesthetic matters too, but I'm referring to the acoustic domain.
A quasi-line source dipole/monopole like Golucids MLs, will illuminate the room very differently that a traditional dome/cone monkey coffin. Except perhaps in the bass <200hz.

cheers,

AJ
 
Hey David, apologies for the late response. Busier weekend than expected.

Anyway, a good general resource for correct speaker/listening position setup can be found here. On the bottom of the page are three methodologies for speaker/listening position setup.

Speaker Placement

I guess I used some modified version of the Wilson WASP method, where you look for the good bass response (Zone of Neutrality I think they call it, or ZON), and that takes drives your speaker positioning. Cardas method I think tries to eliminate any wall room effects by placing the speaker in specific locations driven by room geometry. I've used the Cardas method as a starting point in general and it seems to give me solid results. But always tweak as necessary.

You can look at my room thread to see what acoustic treatments I have and where. This is to start. But like I said, speaker/listening position first to make sure you don't unnecessarily buy treatments to fix things that could be fixed by speaker/listening positioning first.



Allen
 
I really appreciate the advice in this thread. It's is so easy to overlook the room and ooh aah over the bright shiny objects.

Any tips for nearfield treatments? - oh, with a PC monitor between the speakers perhaps... :)
 
I just removed two couches from my living room, and added a wood CD rack (5' x 3') on the left wall, makes a nice diffuser. I felt the couches were over dampening the sound, and it does seem a bit more open now. However, I also added three new power cords Thursday night, and they are still burning in.
 
Recommend using 50mm adhesive Velcro to ahere Vicoustic panels to avoid drywall/plasterboard damage. You could also screw up some thin plywood and velcro to that. Use a heat gun to remove velcro to avoid any paint damage.
 
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