Shunyata Denali 6000/S v2

Welcome to the forum.

Hello Caelin,

Denali 6000/S V2 looks interesting to me.
But what can you say about the internal wiring of it? Is it copper, is it silver ?
What about the sockets ? Are they gold plated ? Rhodium plated ?
ON a personal note, ,e I would have eliminated the on/off switch - a few contacts less, as I always look for the most direct path.
Thank you!
 
Hello Caelin,

Denali 6000/S V2 looks interesting to me.
But what can you say about the internal wiring of it? Is it copper, is it silver ?
What about the sockets ? Are they gold plated ? Rhodium plated ?
ON a personal note, ,e I would have eliminated the on/off switch - a few contacts less, as I always look for the most direct path.
Thank you!

All the information is in our website. There are also several reviews you can read.

Wiring is is our own VTX OFE copper conductors. They are hollow in the center to reduce skin effects and lower inductance.

The outlets are are our own brand, CopperCONN. They use pure copper contacts with a flash of nickel to protect the copper from corrosion.

We don’t use an on/off switch. It is actually a hydraulic electromagnetic breaker that has far less impedance than a traditional thermal breaker.
 
Hi Caelin.
I have received my Denali 6000S V2 which replaces my 6000T. 4 round white pieces came in a small bag but in the manual they do not indicate what they are for.
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On the other hand I have seen the photo of the interior of the USA model, but would it be possible for me to publish a photo of the interior of the European 230v model with Schuko?


The polypropylene discs allow you to shim the feet to level the unit if the shelf or surface is uneven. Simply take the screw out of the footer and add a shim if necessary.

The interior of the EU Denali is identical except for the outlets.
 
Hi Caelin.
I have seen that my new 6000S2 has (unlike the 6000T) rubber inserts on the feet. I am thinking of buying a Daiza platform from Taiko Audio, and Emile insists there should be no rubber between the feet of the device and the Daiza. My question is, can you remove those rubber inserts, and if so how?
Regards
 
Hi Caelin.
I have seen that my new 6000S2 has (unlike the 6000T) rubber inserts on the feet. I am thinking of buying a Daiza platform from Taiko Audio, and Emile insists there should be no rubber between the feet of the device and the Daiza. My question is, can you remove those rubber inserts, and if so how?
Regards

The feet are removable and can also be replaced with SST-38 feet for enhanced performance. Not sure how it laying flat on a platform would be a good idea but I leave that to the purveyor of the platform you want to use.
 
It is not a matter of lying flat (without feet) on the Daiza, only if it is possible to remove the rubber inserts and that the steel foot remains without rubber.
 
The foot is metallic, but in the center it has a rubber insert (not seen in the picture)
 
It is not a matter of lying flat (without feet) on the Daiza, only if it is possible to remove the rubber inserts and that the steel foot remains without rubber.

I see the SSF-38 feet are now standard. Yes, you can peel off the rubber bottom; it's glued to the metal. I think there might also be rubber between the body and the feet but don't have the 6000 anymore so not sure. You can unscrew the feet and check.
 
Hi Caelin.
I have seen that my new 6000S2 has (unlike the 6000T) rubber inserts on the feet. I am thinking of buying a Daiza platform from Taiko Audio, and Emile insists there should be no rubber between the feet of the device and the Daiza. My question is, can you remove those rubber inserts, and if so how?
Regards

Emile is correct, if your goal is to transfer energy from the component to the shelf.

This is what you can do with energy (vibration in this case): couple/transmit it, reflect it, diffuse it (change its frequency resonance), absorb it as heat. No system that consists of a component, shelf/support and footers interact using only one of these principles. It is always a mix of the above functions. So the primary question is usually, “Do you want to drain energy (couple) from the component to the shelf below or do you want to isolate the component from the underlying shelf”.

To answer this you want to know which is vibrating more than the other or which has a resonant frequency component that would likely be attenuated, diffracted or absorbed by the other. Usually the answer to this is that you want to couple energy from the component to the shelf. This assumes that the component is poorly dampened regarding internal vibration and that the shelf is likely a high-end type that has superior vibrational dissipating qualities. So essentially the shelf acts a drain of energy for the component.

Unlike most components, the Denali has had extensive attention to dampening both its internal parts and to dampening the exterior chassis. For this reason, unlike most components, the Denali works quite when it is decoupled (isolated) from the shelf.

What you are calling a rubber pad is not. It is a vibration absorbing polymer that attenuates micro-vibration. So, with most equipment racks or shelves the Denali will perform best with the feet fully intact as shipped from the factory.

However, there are some extremely sophisticated racks and shelves where the best performance could be gained by coupling the Denali directly to the rack. If you wish to do this simply peel the polymer pad (gently) off the bottom of the footer. This will give you a direct metal to wood contact patch. If you are careful with the removal you can put the polymer pad back at a later date. Be carful to not scratch your shelf. For those of you who are super tweakers, try putting a very thin sheet of TP or Kleenex between the metal foot and shelf. Most TP or tissues have multiple layers. Peel off a single layer of tissue to use under the footer. Try it.
 
For supertweakers that have Denali using the stainless steel foot directly on a support or shelf, definitely try Caelin's idea of using a single layer of tissue or TP between the footer and the board/support or shelf. I tried this between my Harbeths and Resonant woods stands and it worked quite well.

It turns out paper is quite a complex material, has very high intrinsic stiffness and an excellent coupling material. There are reasons why many loudspeaker companies use woofers and drivers made of paper.

My suggestion is just to try it.
 
This setup works well in my system: Denali sitting on its stainless steel feet on a rock maple board w/o the SS footer's antivibration polymer pads. The maple board is resting on cork and rubber antivibration pads.

Denali-Daylight.jpg


The worst thing you can do is place Denali on a carpet or rug (do not do this)
 
Hi Caelin.
Thank you for your complete answer. Today I have placed the order. Emile is going to send me 4 little feet like the ones Daiza carries (but without the copper part) to put them under the Denali. I will try.
 
This setup works well in my system: Denali sitting on its stainless steel feet on a rock maple board w/o the SS footer's antivibration polymer pads. The maple board is resting on cork and rubber antivibration pads.

Denali-Daylight.jpg


The worst thing you can do is place Denali on a carpet or rug (do not do this)
I wouldn't think to put it on the carpet
 
I wouldn't think to put it on the carpet

Ha! No, I was not suggesting that you might do it, Francisco. ;)

No, I tried it temporarily while I was sourcing a maple board and...man, that was a mistake.

Its from our experiments that don't work that we learn from as well.

Your shelf looks good.
 
Guys - forgive my lack of education in this area, but can someone advise on what the difference is between Denali 6000 v2 VS. Hydra Sigma S12?

I ask because they are similarly priced and aside from difference in Outlet#'s, I can't tell which one is more advanced in terms of sonics.

I plug my stuff straight into the wall and am beginning to wonder if a Shunyata Conditioner + Pwr Cables might lower the noise and create a more smooth listening experience.....I guess I don't know what I don't know haha
 
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