Has including the preamp involved a change from unbalanced to balanced operation?
Nord One Up Ncore NC500 amps, Class D ready for prime time .....
- Thread starter joeinid
- Start date
Has including the preamp involved a change from unbalanced to balanced operation?
VoicesInMyHead
New member
No, it was balanced already.
OK, just wondered. I found the Nord significantly better when driven balanced.
VoicesInMyHead
New member
I can imagine. A very good power cable also makes a big difference, in fact bigger than I've heard with other amps, maybe it's in the nature of Class D again? I have 2 great power cables, one for my DAC and one for the Nord, one of the cables is apparently about twice as good as the other (if you're measuring in money), and using the best one on the Nord definitely made the biggest improvement and best overall performance.
Have to agree with you there, price is not an accurate determinant, the Nord is itself a prime example. If I add up the cost of all the Nordost cables I use with the Nord it comes to several times the purchase price of the amplifier!
I tried a Benchmark Dac 3 HGC straight into my Nord, I didn't like it at all, it was unrefined for me and a bit digital sounding too, but I am used to a Bryston BDA2 --> ATC SCA2 --> Nord, so I'm not surprised
Good cabling is definitely worth it, further back in the thread I posted lots about finding the right XLR cables, which I got from Alto in the end.
Good cabling is definitely worth it, further back in the thread I posted lots about finding the right XLR cables, which I got from Alto in the end.
Just looked at the back of the Nord, something occurred to me...
I had been thinking about maybe swapping my speaker cable terminations to locking banana plugs for the additional reason that the Furutech ones allow piggy backing of another cable, which I'd like to try.
Anyway, upon looking at the Nord closely, the speaker terminals (binding posts) don't seem good for accepting banana plugs, when I looked closely, the plug goes in as far as it can but then when you look at the clear bit at the back of the socket you can observe that only so much of it is in contact, I would guess at most 60% of the length of the banana's contact area. The design seems really flawed to me!
So, now I am thinking of changing the Speaker Terminals on the Nord first, perhaps for some WBT-0708 https://www.hificollective.co.uk/binding_posts/wbt-0708-nextgen-pole-terminal-1.html ...they've got to be better surely? Anyone looked inside a Nord and know if they are already spade terminals and hence this is the simplest swap? Anyone also know if the drilled holes will be the correct diameter already.
Any other suggestions of Speaker Terminals?
I thought it is best to sort this before doing the locking banana plugs seeing as only 60% of the plug actually goes in.
(I grabbed another banana plug design I had lying around and confirmed the same problem).
I had been thinking about maybe swapping my speaker cable terminations to locking banana plugs for the additional reason that the Furutech ones allow piggy backing of another cable, which I'd like to try.
Anyway, upon looking at the Nord closely, the speaker terminals (binding posts) don't seem good for accepting banana plugs, when I looked closely, the plug goes in as far as it can but then when you look at the clear bit at the back of the socket you can observe that only so much of it is in contact, I would guess at most 60% of the length of the banana's contact area. The design seems really flawed to me!
So, now I am thinking of changing the Speaker Terminals on the Nord first, perhaps for some WBT-0708 https://www.hificollective.co.uk/binding_posts/wbt-0708-nextgen-pole-terminal-1.html ...they've got to be better surely? Anyone looked inside a Nord and know if they are already spade terminals and hence this is the simplest swap? Anyone also know if the drilled holes will be the correct diameter already.
Any other suggestions of Speaker Terminals?
I thought it is best to sort this before doing the locking banana plugs seeing as only 60% of the plug actually goes in.
(I grabbed another banana plug design I had lying around and confirmed the same problem).
I checked the depth of the 4mm sockets on my Nord and they are 36mm which is par for the course. There is 6mm of the plastic knob to take away giving 30mm of metal contact. There are always the all metal posts you could try but they don't have the safety of short protection. What is the barrel length of the plugs you are looking to use?
I'll have a check, measure up everything and shout back.
I've got round my immediate curiosity by connecting up one wire raw screwed down by the binding post and the other wire (which is a bi-wire) as a Banana in the back, giving me the tri-wire I need.
I'll probably get the Furutech locking bananas first then measure them, then decide what to do, or whether to bother.
BTW I was running just a bi-wire cable to my tri-wire speakers and then using jumpers so the midrange and tweeter share one set of the wires. Changing it to tri-wire immediately improved the soundstage, I'd been meaning to do it for a while. I'm using Ruark Crusader 2's since about a month ago and the audible benefit of tri-wiring them is quite noticeable. (I was running Ruark Talisman 2s before which are two way and bi-wirable and they quite obviously liked being bi-wired too).
Next step is to try get a better connection at the amp end for the bi-wire cable, maybe involving locking bananas and changing the binding posts. I will also replace all the bananas at the speaker ends with crimp on spade connectors.
I've got round my immediate curiosity by connecting up one wire raw screwed down by the binding post and the other wire (which is a bi-wire) as a Banana in the back, giving me the tri-wire I need.
I'll probably get the Furutech locking bananas first then measure them, then decide what to do, or whether to bother.
BTW I was running just a bi-wire cable to my tri-wire speakers and then using jumpers so the midrange and tweeter share one set of the wires. Changing it to tri-wire immediately improved the soundstage, I'd been meaning to do it for a while. I'm using Ruark Crusader 2's since about a month ago and the audible benefit of tri-wiring them is quite noticeable. (I was running Ruark Talisman 2s before which are two way and bi-wirable and they quite obviously liked being bi-wired too).
Next step is to try get a better connection at the amp end for the bi-wire cable, maybe involving locking bananas and changing the binding posts. I will also replace all the bananas at the speaker ends with crimp on spade connectors.
You're looking to do exactly what I do with my bi-wire Nordost cables. I bought some heavy duty gold plated fork to 4mm adapters, bent the fork at 90 degrees in a vice so the forks clamp in the posts and I have two 4mm sockets pointing backwards from each connection.
I saw Colin earlier, we were discussing the binding posts. He was saying they are a good patented design, and of course it's unlikely to cause any audible benefit changing them we were both agreed.
He is actually doing WBT Binding Posts as an option now on new orders for those that want them.
He is actually doing WBT Binding Posts as an option now on new orders for those that want them.
Jack
Active member
Those WBT binding posts he is offering as an option are not an upgrade over the standard CHK posts except in name only. I have a pair of speakers with them and they feel cheap and are hard to keep tight. The CHK's work much better.
Rodm_2001
New member
Hi guys!
First, I would like to thank Joe and Mike for helping me out and being very nice and inviting.
I have read the entire thread here and found it very educational.
During the past 2-3 months I have been upgrading my HT/Sound system and after a hole lot of back and forth and returns landed with an Arcam SR-250 receiver and a pair of Ohm 3000 speakers. I do like the setup however I can tell the speakers would have a lot more potential with added juice. The Arcam receiver is rated at 90 watts per channel.
My thought was to pickup a Nord one with the SI 994 op-amp and use my Arcam as the preamp.
The Arcam doesn't have balanced (XLR) outputs and the pre-amp output impedance is around 600 ohms, with a maximum gain of 13dB.
Do you think the Arcam would be ok to be paired with the Nord?
I know it's not ideal and it could sound better if I had a dedicated pre-amp but I have to keep the Arcam for HT duties and don't have room or budget to add anymore gadgets.
I just don't want to spend $2500 and realize that the stand alone Arcam receiver would sound better than the combination of the two.
your input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rod
First, I would like to thank Joe and Mike for helping me out and being very nice and inviting.
I have read the entire thread here and found it very educational.
During the past 2-3 months I have been upgrading my HT/Sound system and after a hole lot of back and forth and returns landed with an Arcam SR-250 receiver and a pair of Ohm 3000 speakers. I do like the setup however I can tell the speakers would have a lot more potential with added juice. The Arcam receiver is rated at 90 watts per channel.
My thought was to pickup a Nord one with the SI 994 op-amp and use my Arcam as the preamp.
The Arcam doesn't have balanced (XLR) outputs and the pre-amp output impedance is around 600 ohms, with a maximum gain of 13dB.
Do you think the Arcam would be ok to be paired with the Nord?
I know it's not ideal and it could sound better if I had a dedicated pre-amp but I have to keep the Arcam for HT duties and don't have room or budget to add anymore gadgets.
I just don't want to spend $2500 and realize that the stand alone Arcam receiver would sound better than the combination of the two.
your input is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rod
Rodm_2001
New member
Thanks Joe! Great to be part of the discussion.
Jack
Active member
Rod
The Nord will certainly give you more on the amp side in terms of headroom and there seems to be no reason it wouldn't work. The cable issue is easy to solve with Neutrik adaptors. I would suggest that you contact Collin and just ask him. He has always been straight with all of us and he very well may be familiar with the Arcam gear. Mine has done duty with multiple preamps and always sounded fine.
The Nord will certainly give you more on the amp side in terms of headroom and there seems to be no reason it wouldn't work. The cable issue is easy to solve with Neutrik adaptors. I would suggest that you contact Collin and just ask him. He has always been straight with all of us and he very well may be familiar with the Arcam gear. Mine has done duty with multiple preamps and always sounded fine.
- Thread Author
- #1,157
It's funny, I had forgotten but I bought RCA to XLR cables from Colin when I bought my amps. I never did use them but performance was always fine. He can include a set when you place your order. That should be a great solution.
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Rodm_2001
New member
Thanks Jack and Joe!
I did send him an e-mail and he mentioned that it should be fine. I think I am going to pull the trigger.
Thanks guys!
I did send him an e-mail and he mentioned that it should be fine. I think I am going to pull the trigger.
Thanks guys!
- Thread Author
- #1,159
It might be fun to add an additional op amp for a different flavor. You could ask Colin what he recommends but I loved the 994 with a tube preamp or passive preamp. Personal taste plays a role in ultimate voicing.
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Jack
Active member
I think he is down to just the two options because or reliability in the buffer board. Depending on the speaker voicing with a SS preamp the Sparkos would be warmer.