McIntosh Power Control Cables

Golucid

Golucid

Taking a break
Joined
Jan 10, 2015
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1,058
Something I see very little discussed is one of the most thoughtful options that McIntosh affords it products - Power Control.


When you acquire, as I have, a number of McIntosh components with multiple amps, it can be a bit...meh...a pain to have to manually turn on each and every component individually and then repeat the process for power down. Worse, you get finger prints all over the pretty Glass.


Thankfully, McIntosh thought things through. The Power Control Cables are not too expensive. Well, more than $20 bucks! If I recall, a 1M cable cost around $60.


The process is straight forward. Connecting the cable form the preamp to the turntable to other rig components and then off to the amps takes just a few minutes and voila! One button engages all he components - BOOM!


Worth noting: Unlike the other components that can switch on/off instantly. The MB100 requires both a power on and power off cycle. Once the MB100 powers on [within a few seconds], it sends a power on trigger to the power amps cycle on as well. The power off cycle takes slightly longer engaging similar triggers - and all this happens without any human interaction beyond engaging one power on/off button on the preamp.


Very nice. McIntosh and Autonomics must have really thought this one through. Bravo!
 
David.......I agree with you that the McIntosh power control scheme is efficient, useful, and well thought out. It is enjoyable to press a single Standby button and have the entire McIntosh sound system sequentially power up or power down. Very slick indeed.

One thing I differ from you on is I see no value at all in the McIntosh branded stereo mini-jack cable used for power control of the components. There is no audio signal passing through this cable, only 5 volts or 12 volts to trigger the relay circuits and meter lighting. I use 6' stereo mini-jack cables from Parts Express that are priced less than $5.00 each. I see no reason to pay $60.00 for a 1 meter stereo mini-jack cable with McIntosh logos on the fancy gold connectors when I can achieve the exact same results with a Parts Express cable at approximately 8% of the cost of the McIntosh branded cable. If there was a performance gain to be acquired, that might alter my thinking but there is nothing the 1 meter McIntosh cable at $60.00 provides that the 6' Parts Express cable at $5.00 does not provide. Actually, I get an additional 31 inches of cable length to boot. I use 12 power control cables with my McIntosh components. That's $720.00 worth of McIntosh 1 meter mini-jack cables versus $60.00 worth of Parts Express 6' mini-jack cables. That means I have cabled my two McIntosh systems' components with power control cables for the price of 1 McIntosh branded 1 meter mini-jack cable. You might even check these cables out at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Dubbin...965102&sr=1-3&keywords=stereo+mini+jack+cable

Ok, ok, I don't have the fancy gold plated connectors with the McIntosh logo screened on them. I'll give you that much. :rolleyes:


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Dan...I had no idea this was an option. I believed that there was something magical about these McIntosh branded cables. Had I asked you first [D'oh!], I would have saved some considerable cash.

I will not make the over priced mistake again.

Thanks for the enlightenment!

BTW: Thanks for the url you gave me earlier to buy the by far less expensive alternative.

Amazon: 3.5" Cable Option
 
Golucid said:
Dan...I had no idea this was an option. I believed that there was something magical about these McIntosh branded cables. Had I asked you first [D'oh!], I would have saved some considerable cash.

I will not make the over priced mistake again.

Thanks for the enlightenment!

BTW: Thanks for the url you gave me earlier to buy the by far less expensive alternative.

Amazon: 3.5" Cable Option
Click to expand...

LOL! :roflmao:
 
David.......Oh, there's something magical about the McIntosh power control cables alright. It's how much profit they make out of thin air capitalizing on their strong reputation and brand loyalty with cables that are likely manufactured in the same Chinese factories as the Belkin cables on Amazon. I don't know if that can be termed magic or hoodoo but the next time I visit my fortune teller I'll ask her. . :love:



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I will say this about using quality trigger cables even if you make them up yourself (of which I did have commisioned to my specification.).


1. Some McIntosh equipment take advantage of a 3-way contact connection. The data stream allows you to switch meter lights on and off. It is particulalry difficult to solder the data point on a 3.5mm plug. But it is doeable on better quality plugs.


2. Use good quality 3.5mm plugs. The DC voltage (especially if set at 12v) smashes the plug and the plug contact point does wear over time. I recommend the new Furutech 3.5mm plugs.


3. Use shielded wire. Even better braid with Techflex Flexo Conductive. You don't want the cable to behave like an antenna or needlessly radiate EM noise. These wires maintain continuous DC voltage when the equipment is ON.


I am fully triggered including on the HT side to/from Denon AV pre + multi-ch amp. So when watching HT, the Denon trips its companion muti-ch amplifier, triggers the centre channel MC2301, gives the C1000 a kick in the guts in PASSTHRU mode which in turn triggers the front MC2301s. By the time that happens, the Denon powers the Sony and FOXTEL with CEC HDMI commands. Wam bam thank you mam.
 
Steve said:
I will say this about using quality trigger cables even if you make them up yourself (of which I did have commisioned to my specification.).
Click to expand...

Steve, can I see a photo of these commissioned cables. As you know, I 'm a fan of your system.



Steve said:
1. Some McIntosh equipment take advantage of a 3-way contact connection. The data stream allows you to switch meter lights on and off. It is particulalry difficult to solder the data point on a 3.5mm plug. But it is doable on better quality plugs.
Click to expand...

That's an interesting point. Where is that solder point you are referring too? Since I have the McIntosh cables. Where do I look to see this variable that is not traditionally on the lesser expensive 3.5mm plugs?


Steve said:
2. Use good quality 3.5mm plugs. The DC voltage (especially if set at 12v) smashes the plug and the plug contact point does wear over time. I recommend the new Furutech 3.5mm plugs.
Click to expand...

Photo of these Furutech plugs? I like the look of their wires. I haven't purchased any yet, though.


Steve said:
3. Use shielded wire. Even better braid with Techflex Flexo Conductive. You don't want the cable to behave like an antenna or needlessly radiate EM noise. These wires maintain continuous DC voltage when the equipment is ON.
Click to expand...

Is the Techflex Flexo Conductive something you buy and add to your existing wires or is this a specific type of cable?

Are you using a custom ground cable for your McIntosh MT10 too?
 
Bill, I had not thought to ask you either. My to go too guys: Dan and Bill. Oops!
 
o0OBillO0o said:
From my AVR to my C2500 this is the only cable I could find (on Amazon Prime). This cable facilitates the lights and meters being turned off in "Passthru" Mode.
Click to expand...

They must of addressed this in the C2500 because the C1000 cannot do this. The C1000 is dead to the world once it is operating in PASSTHRU mode and will not accept any commands. So you have to turn off the lights off before you enter PASSTHRU mode. It's a PIA so I rarely touch my lights.
 
Steve said:
They must of addressed this in the C2500 because the C1000 cannot do this. The C1000 is dead to the world once it is operating in PASSTHRU mode and will not accept any commands. So you have to turn off the lights off before you enter PASSTHRU mode. It's a PIA so I rarely touch my lights.
Click to expand...

Steve.......Turning off the meter lights in the C1000 preamp and connected power amps is a simple remote control command. What do you mean it's a pain in the ass?
 
Double-D said:
Steve.......Turning off the meter lights in the C1000 preamp and connected power amps is a simple remote control command. What do you mean it's a pain in the ass?
Click to expand...

It does not work when the pre-amp is already in PASSTHRU mode. Easy to do with the remote when not operating in PASSTHRU mode and it will remember that setting next time whether it is operating in PASSTHRU mode or not.

There may be an exception for owners of say an MX151 if the data signal works via the PASSTHRU trigger as well. But I'm not sure . Obviously the Denon pre-amp does not know of such.
 
Steve said:
They must of addressed this in the C2500 because the C1000 cannot do this. The C1000 is dead to the world once it is operating in PASSTHRU mode and will not accept any commands. So you have to turn off the lights off before you enter PASSTHRU mode. It's a PIA so I rarely touch my lights.
Click to expand...

Double-D said:
Steve.......Turning off the meter lights in the C1000 preamp and connected power amps is a simple remote control command. What do you mean it's a pain in the ass?
Click to expand...
My C2500, once in passthru is locked out. For good reason having multiple volume knob levels can cause a problem, but I am sure there is more.

Just set the lights and tubes to go out in Passthru beforehand. Its super easy.
 
Bill... Yes. Changing mode of operation generally results in a power cycle when using Universal Remotes. Can be a PIA when the whole rig is triggered. Using the dial on the amps is another way.
 
The DIY triggers here use Viablue 3.5mm plugs. They are bound with shrinkwrap because the diameter of the cable plus the braid exceeds the barrel size. I will get reterminate with the better quality Furutech plugs if it becomes necessary.

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