Magico MPOD

My MPod set unpacking:


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Now need to swap them with casters somehow.
 
Why do u need a torque wrench?

Screw them in , adjust level and then screw on decorative caps.....no torquing required

Its meant to be used as a ratchet
 
Why do u need a torque wrench?

Screw them in , adjust level and then screw on decorative caps.....no torquing required

Its meant to be used as a ratchet

Bob from Rhapsody has answered this question in another thread before. It is a torque wrench...and meant to be used as such...

"The supplied torque wrench that you can see in the first set of pics in this thread is to "tighten the tensioners" in each speaker.

There are 8 holes on the back of the speaker where you use the torque wrench to "tune the cabinet". There is a specific torque value that you use to precisely align the internal structure of the M3. You do this "adjustment" about once every 10 days or so to keep the internal tensioners at an exact setting. Do this for the first few hundred hours while the speakers are breaking in, then maybe once every six months."

Comes specifically with M3 purchase.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
There are 8 holes on the back of the speaker where you use the torque wrench to "tune the cabinet". There is a specific torque value that you use to precisely align the internal structure of the M3. You do this "adjustment" about once every 10 days or so to keep the internal tensioners at an exact setting. Do this for the first few hundred hours while the speakers are breaking in, then maybe once every six months."

Comes specifically with M3 purchase.
I always knew that speaker was highly strung! :lol:
 
Bob from Rhapsody has answered this question in another thread before. It is a torque wrench...and meant to be used as such...

"The supplied torque wrench that you can see in the first set of pics in this thread is to "tighten the tensioners" in each speaker.

There are 8 holes on the back of the speaker where you use the torque wrench to "tune the cabinet". There is a specific torque value that you use to precisely align the internal structure of the M3. You do this "adjustment" about once every 10 days or so to keep the internal tensioners at an exact setting. Do this for the first few hundred hours while the speakers are breaking in, then maybe once every six months."

Comes specifically with M3 purchase.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's interesting. So a torque wrench comes with the speakers, and a torque wrench comes with the MPODs? Or are MPODs standard with the M3.

I know I periodically tighten the 'screws' (torx) used to secure the S5 drivers. I just did my S5MKII for the first time, and was surprised a few were able to be tightened. I just apply a little pressure on the ratchet until the screw is secure.

Naturally, the speakers sound even better now. :)
 
Bob from Rhapsody has answered this question in another thread before. It is a torque wrench...and meant to be used as such...

"The supplied torque wrench that you can see in the first set of pics in this thread is to "tighten the tensioners" in each speaker.

There are 8 holes on the back of the speaker where you use the torque wrench to "tune the cabinet". There is a specific torque value that you use to precisely align the internal structure of the M3. You do this "adjustment" about once every 10 days or so to keep the internal tensioners at an exact setting. Do this for the first few hundred hours while the speakers are breaking in, then maybe once every six months."

Comes specifically with M3 purchase.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This I know...weird that it comes in MPOD box. How does it come if u don't get MPODs?

I didnt get one with MProject's.........
 
You may still get the same box if you order without the M-Pods - the spikes they provide are huge, a bit S-Pod looking.
 
That's interesting. So a torque wrench comes with the speakers, and a torque wrench comes with the MPODs? Or are MPODs standard with the M3.

I know I periodically tighten the 'screws' (torx) used to secure the S5 drivers. I just did my S5MKII for the first time, and was surprised a few were able to be tightened. I just apply a little pressure on the ratchet until the screw is secure.

Naturally, the speakers sound even better now. :)
Interesting Bud. I checked the owners manual for my S5 Mk2's and found no reference under the 'Care' section or elsewhere to periodically tightening the drivers' bolts/screws.

Also Martin Colloms made the following observations in his review of the S5 Mk2 for Hifi Critic..

DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGY

Many design and manufacturing improvements found in the MkII are relevant to observed sound quality advantages. The build practice resembles aircraft engineering, and is somewhat different from simply bolting drivers into relatively elastic wood-based constructions. When the S5 drivers are bolted in with torque-calibrated tools, the resulting registration of the driver to enclosure remains closely coupled and stable, essentially for its operating life.

One would assume all the driver and cabinet screws are carefully tightened to specific torque settings before they leave the factory, hence i'm surprised by your comments/findings. I will contact Magico to try to clear this up as regards to the S5 Mk2 and post their response.
 
I have used my own torque wrench - none followed my M Pros eather - to tighten the rods and they do sound better after. When Peter Mackay visited me he recommended me doing this once or twice a year. Acording to Magico the bolts connecting the rods (10 pcs) in the M Pro should be tightend to 120 inchpounds (13 newton meter).
 
...I checked the owners manual for my S5 Mk2's and found no reference under the 'Care' section or elsewhere to periodically tightening the drivers' bolts/screws...One would assume all the driver and cabinet screws are carefully tightened to specific torque settings before they leave the factory, hence i'm surprised by your comments/findings. I will contact Magico to try to clear this up as regards to the S5 Mk2 and post their response.

No need, here you have it from the horses mouth (same would apply for S5Mk2)...

Tune up tip for your S3's - carefully hand tighten all of the bolts holding the transducers on the front baffle of your S3's using a star pattern pattern 12-o'clock, 6-o'clock, 2-o'clock, 8-o'clock etc. This will ensure even tightness around the frame of each transducer and makes a big difference in the overall signal dynamics.

Recheck for levelness, equal distance from the seated listening position to the front baffle of the L/R loudspeakers and directivity of the tweeter which should both land at 12-15 inches behind your head in relation to the seated listening position.
 
No need, here you have it from the horses mouth (same would apply for S5Mk2)...

Tune up tip for your S3's - carefully hand tighten all of the bolts holding the transducers on the front baffle of your S3's using a star pattern pattern 12-o'clock, 6-o'clock, 2-o'clock, 8-o'clock etc. This will ensure even tightness around the frame of each transducer and makes a big difference in the overall signal dynamics.

Recheck for levelness, equal distance from the seated listening position to the front baffle of the L/R loudspeakers and directivity of the tweeter which should both land at 12-15 inches behind your head in relation to the seated listening position.
(If) this is the recommended maintenance for the S5 Mk2, i'm absolute dumbfounded why someone as meticulous as Alon Wolf would not include this in the 'Care' section of the Instruction manual. Are we talking about optional maintenance here? If as your "horses mouth" advice suggests the results can make a "big difference", then either someone is asleep at the wheel at Magico, or this advice is specific to the S3. I await a response from Magico.
 
No need, here you have it from the horses mouth (same would apply for S5Mk2)...

Tune up tip for your S3's - carefully hand tighten all of the bolts holding the transducers on the front baffle of your S3's using a star pattern pattern 12-o'clock, 6-o'clock, 2-o'clock, 8-o'clock etc. This will ensure even tightness around the frame of each transducer and makes a big difference in the overall signal dynamics.

Recheck for levelness, equal distance from the seated listening position to the front baffle of the L/R loudspeakers and directivity of the tweeter which should both land at 12-15 inches behind your head in relation to the seated listening position.


Basic loudspeaker maintenance, you would think...
 
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