How much power do I need?

The 84db for the S5 is as measured by SP , not a claim but actually measured sensitivity. Vitus rates your amp at 100/100 @ 8 ohm , if it 's 25 watts class A into 8 then its half into 4 , so 12.5 watts class-a at 4 and 200 watts at clipping into 4 ohm , i cant confirm as i could not find any independent measured data..

On your 4ohm nominal speaker , you have approximately 12.5 watts of class-A power , you can confirm with an email to Vitus ..

I can believe you have not heard your Vitus go into clipping, there is enuff class-B power there to keep it so , if within the DB parameters in discussion, 200/200 per side is adequate for that .


Regards
 
a.wayne said:
The 84db for the S5 is as measured by SP , not a claim but actually measured sensitivity. Vitus rates your amp at 100/100 @ 8 ohm , if it 's 25 watts class A into 8 then its half into 4 , so 12.5 watts class-a at 4 and 200 watts at clipping into 4 ohm , i cant confirm as i could not find any independent measured data..

On your 4ohm nominal speaker , you have approximately 12.5 watts of class-A power , you can confirm with an email to Vitus ..

I can believe you have not heard your Vitus go into clipping, there is enuff class-B power there to keep it so , if within the DB parameters in discussion, 200/200 per side is adequate for that .


Regards
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Oh well all of the above must be correct, and maybe what I thought was my kettle boiling was my amp clipping? On your expert advice i'll put my under-powered amp up for sale immediately!
 
Melbguy1 said:
Oh well all of the above must be correct, and maybe what I thought was my kettle boiling was my amp clipping? On your expert advice i'll put my under-powered amp up for sale immediately!
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Wait a min, I thought I said to Sell the whole system and Order a full AvantGarde Horn setup from Mike ....




:rolleyes:
 
The 'correct' answer is 1200W/ch @ 4 ohm if you want to hear all the details and nuances in the music. Power is like money. You can never have too much. :)
 
BlueFox said:
The 'correct' answer is 1200W/ch @ 4 ohm if you want to hear all the details and nuances in the music. Power is like money. You can never have too much. :)
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Pass rocks...


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Man, can't wait to get my X350.8 this week.

Just need to find a small army to help me carry it!


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Seriously, this thread is turning into something resembling a drunken tale of fishing stories...surely anything but an honest and accurate commentary on an amplifier's ability to control a given loudspeaker load in the real world? But hey everyone enjoys a good yarn I guess! :lol:.
 
It's a topic that is always going to be around. I probably should have read the whole thing, but it got strange in a few places, lol. One post that I think Wayne made was about a lower noise floor in the listening room allows you to have a lower power/current need. Not sure if it was discussed, but I was once told that tube watts may as well be doubled as it's a higher current that many SS devices. I have no idea if this is true or not. I'm sure some of you engineers know the true answer to this. As for a quiet room vs a noisy one, it's just like your car. I just installed a LOT of insulation in my wife's 2001 BMW 328ic convertible (may be the 330 as I can't recall). I did the doors with triple the quiet mat (or whatever that company is called). I had new gaskets installed in the roof. There isn't much, other than a new top (Not needed) that I can do to the top. I also installed the same material from the doors on the inside firewall and the floor under the carpet (had it up and out when I installed a bluetooth device, new speakers and an amp.

Bottom line is that even in a convertible where I DO need more power, I just lowered the noise floor a great deal (you can hear a huge difference when driving) and the new system is as loud as she wants it to be. We could have gotten away with just new amp/speakers (more efficient), but I knew I wanted to lower the ambient noise in the car.

The real bottom line is getting the amp yo love the sound of in your own room and listen at loud levels. If that works, then you should have enough power. For such a basic and easy answer, it really seems to drive many crazy.
 
I have 91db/8ohm speakers and can confirm 15 watt average peaks regularly in a smallish room and have seen one 30 watt blast from the end of a super dynamic orchestral piece.
 
KeithR said:
I have 91db/8ohm speakers and can confirm 15 watt average peaks regularly in a smallish room and have seen one 30 watt blast from the end of a super dynamic orchestral piece.
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A 88 db/w/m speaker would need 60 watts for that peak, 85 db 120 watts and you are in a smallish room and didn't specify listening levels , I'm also willing to wager those meters do not capture peak power accurately , as most are slowed to capture ...


Ctsooner said:
It's a topic that is always going to be around. I probably should have read the whole thing, but it got strange in a few places, lol. One post that I think Wayne made was about a lower noise floor in the listening room allows you to have a lower power/current need. .
Click to expand...

Yep, noise floor, listening level and music crest factor plays heavy into this ....


Melbguy1 said:
Well that is the pot calling the kettle black .
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Says the Dutch pot .....
 
a.wayne said:
A 88 db/w/m speaker would need 60 watts for that peak, 85 db 120 watts and you are in a smallish room and didn't specify listening levels , I'm also willing to wager those meters do not capture peak power accurately , as most are slowed to capture ...
Click to expand...

My point was actually that people typically underestimate power needs. I have pretty efficient speakers vs. others mentioned - with minimum 7.5 ohm impedance as well. I listen upper 70s, peaks can easily go 90s - but sometimes you need to crank up Billy Jean to the 90s :) The Vu meters on my amp reference average level I believe, so yes peaks can be more but I'm well within range.

I've said before that amps like Bud's big boys would be my preferred weapon of destruction for Magico and other "normal" efficiency speakers.
 
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