Floor leveling??

Petro85

Petro85

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I'm in the middle of making a new audio stand. The area which I would need to put this is on tile and it slopes back and kinda to the right.lol.
The last stand I built I tried to make up for it by making the legs different sizes. It helped a little but made the stand look crooked.
I want to put something down on the floor to level it out before I put the new stand there. I really don't care about the looks.
The new stand is on audio points. I have here thick maple plywood.
Would that do to level out things with some shims of some sort?
Or would I want to go a different way? I'm trying to control floor shaking which my other stand at 200lbs does fine. But the first VTI stand i had was awful shakey.I'd like to finally be able to put the table down and not have to worry about it not being level anymore.
If I use plywood think I should use rubber or something for shims?
Any ideas much appreciated.
 
Petro85 said:
I'm in the middle of making a new audio stand. The area which I would need to put this is on tile and it slopes back and kinda to the right.lol.
The last stand I built I tried to make up for it by making the legs different sizes. It helped a little but made the stand look crooked.
I want to put something down on the floor to level it out before I put the new stand there. I really don't care about the looks.
The new stand is on audio points. I have here thick maple plywood.
Would that do to level out things with some shims of some sort?
Or would I want to go a different way? I'm trying to control floor shaking which my other stand at 200lbs does fine. But the first VTI stand i had was awful shakey.I'd like to finally be able to put the table down and not have to worry about it not being level anymore.
If I use plywood think I should use rubber or something for shims?
Any ideas much appreciated.
Click to expand...

How much do you need to lift one or two of the corners?
 
They have to go up at least 1.5 inches in the rear and a little on the left side .
I could use a rug but I'd still need the ply underneath. It's way out of whack
 
I could move the whole thing off the wall a little. Would help but still be off.
 
I would use spiked footers with threads at the bottom of your stand. This way you can leave a greater portion of the threads showing (i.e., don't screw in the spikes all the way in) on the corners that are shorter and this way you will level the table on your uneven floor. I hope that makes sense. But all audiophile stands have adjustable footers that can be screwed in or out to allow one to level the table (most floors are slightly uneven although it sounds like yours might be more so than most). Hope this helps.

edenSound home
Mapleshade Audio Products - Brass Footers
 
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cmalak said:
I would use spiked footers with threads at the bottom of your stand. This way you can leave a greater portion of the threads showing (i.e., don't screw in the spikes all the way in) on the corners that are shorter and this way you will level the table on your uneven floor. I hope that makes sense. But all audiophile stands have adjustable footers that can be screwed in or out to allow one to level the table (most floors are slightly uneven although it sounds like yours might be more so than most). Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Yes I understand ,'the spikes I ordered have threads to adjust but I seem to need to adjust them all the way out and then still unscrew the feet on my table . It makes everything too unstable. I'm making this so each shelf is isolated I'd like to put the equip directly on the shelves.
I kinda like mikes idea with thick rug, maybe I'd add a pad under so I can set the spikes right into the plywood. But I still need to level the ply first.
 
Petro85 said:
They have to go up at least 1.5 inches in the rear and a little on the left side .
I could use a rug but I'd still need the ply underneath. It's way out of whack
Click to expand...

1.5 inches.....wow that sucks.

I would build a plinth that the stands sits on.....with a skirt on the front and R & L sides, the skirt on the R & L sides would be cut like a wedge shape.

Here is a pic.....a bit of modification but it would work.

wedgeshape.jpg
 
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Yea Jeff I like that, I got all this leftover clear maple ply. And I have a million sets of rubber feet around(every time I see some I buy em). If I put my laser level beam across the floor, I could probably get a accurate read on the slope then make a nice stand for my stand. Lol.
This is gonna be a decently heavy one once I put all the shelves in and each one will have its own spikes. So I need it to be rock solid.
Thanks guys
 
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