Kingrex
Active member
You need to find a horizontal piece. Not the little vertical ones that wrap in a u.
Electrical Grounding, AIN’T NO JOKE...
- Thread starter UltraFast69
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UltraFast69
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- #42
I like seeing the interest in this topic, I’m surprised there’s not more interaction on something that is so beneficial
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Kingrex
Active member
He doesn't because I never took one, unless he had somebody else do it. I don't have the tools to do that. It's not really required as every service I put in will have a ufer ground
UltraFast69
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- #45
Willco,
Rex is correct that we did not do this. All I know is that the process we underwent was no subtle outcome.
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Kingrex
Active member
I have been stalled a bit on grounding my own place with a rod. I have a ufer. I decided Im going to get the squars D PKGTAB and put an isolated audio ground in my main panel. Most of us don't have subpanel. I want to know if a rod is a benefit and how best to keep the dirty main panel noise off my audio ground. Yes I will bond it to the primary ground.
CPP
Active member
When the power company and the electrician did the grounds in my home they used a Megger DET4TCR and a Fluke 1625 Earth Resistance Meter. They got 8.99 ohms on a 24 ft connected rod, in Fla sand. , Resistance is futile
I learned along time ago, (62 years + ) that when living in the lightning capital of the US, grounding and power needs should be handled by professionals as they are bonded, insured and most importantly trained.
Kingrex
Active member
When the power company and the electrician did the grounds in my home they used a Megger DET4TCR and a Fluke 1625 Earth Resistance Meter. They got 8.99 ohms on a 24 ft connected rod, in Fla sand. , Resistance is futile
I learned along time ago, (62 years + ) that when living in the lightning capital of the US, grounding and power needs should be handled by professionals as they are bonded, insured and most importantly trained.
Ouch, thats about $3500 for a Fluke or $2500 for the DET4TCR. Did they use 2 tools for separate test or were they used together? My inspector had something like the DET4TCR. That was all he brought.
In Seattle, all new construction has to have a concrete encased electrode. We are also in a very low lightning zone. That is a big reason I have never bought such a tool, nor have I used one on any commercial job. We very often megged gear on commercial jobs. We always did when installing any service equipment. Every feeder to every panel was megged. Every buss was not only megged but a huge power soak was hooked up to the end of the buss and we took a infrared temperature laser and checked every bolt. Every year or 2 a tech goes back and temperature checks all the buss.
On one data center I put in a few hundred feet of busway. We megged it and started the gear. All was fine. A week later they added a UPS and someone else added a T into the busway, hooked up the gear and threw the power switch. The whole busway blew apart at the T as the guy did not meg it and he had somehow crushed the phase plate against the ground so it blew up. Took out some UPS too. Glad I had nothing to do with that.
CPP
Active member
The Power Company had their test equipment and the electrician had his. What it cost to them is peanuts what it would cost to us to buy that equipment. They used both tools.
Kingrex
Active member
If you could get enough people to pool together money and find a used one???
I just don't need one. For the most part I'm winding down my work too. I'm getting too old to do it and good help is hard to find leaving me involved in too much physical labor.
I just don't need one. For the most part I'm winding down my work too. I'm getting too old to do it and good help is hard to find leaving me involved in too much physical labor.
CPP
Active member
I just let the power company/electricians handle this stuff. If something screws up they are liable. I'm just waiting to read online one day that some Audiophile got electrocuted or his home caught fire from messing around with his electrical system (unless he was a licensed electrician of course) , I learned along time ago to respect power and water. And I just hate plumbing.
I just let the power company/electricians handle this stuff. If something screws up they are liable. I'm just waiting to read online one day that some Audiophile got electrocuted or his home caught fire from messing around with his electrical system (unless he was a licensed electrician of course) , I learned along time ago to respect power and water. And I just hate plumbing.
I started including a recommendation to have a licensed electrician install my outlets soon after I got started selling them in 2000. I sold over 10,000 of them worldwide before I sold Acme last September. I hope no one died trying the install themselves.
brad225
Well-known member
Very interesting thread, thanks to all of you.
When I built a pole barn 4 years ago and an addition on our house 2 years ago I was surprised by the changes in grounding requirements.
We needed a Ufer and ground rod connected together for the system ground from the panel. Sounds like a good thing based on what I have read here.
When I built a pole barn 4 years ago and an addition on our house 2 years ago I was surprised by the changes in grounding requirements.
We needed a Ufer and ground rod connected together for the system ground from the panel. Sounds like a good thing based on what I have read here.
brad225
Well-known member
You, my good man, deserve an adult beverage!
UltraFast69
New member
- Thread Author
- #57
Kingrex
Active member
So cool. Great effort. Steel wool the heck out of it to get a good electrical bond. liberally apply DEOX to the rebar where ever exposed and where the clamp will terminate to it. Use a Copper/brass clamp. Not the light weight AL/CU silver ones. They have it all at home depot. Use #2 or #1 THWN from the clamp to the panel. insulated conductor, not bare copper. Although I don't know you can get larger than #4 in bare anyways.
Kingrex
Active member
Your suppose to have access to the clamp, but if you want to wrap the connection after ensuring its good and tight, then fill the hole with hydraulic compound or cement????? Careful you don't actually over tighten and stress the clamp where it wants to bend and maybe break. Maybe put 2 clamps around the rebar. maybe one clamp is wire only and the other holding the wire against the rebar. If your going to fill the hole, it would not hurt to bore some sideways holes and install rebar plugs to make a better connection between the sides. They generally have epoxy shot into the hole, then the rebar pounded in. Again, all at Home depot. The epoxy is in a 2 part tube with a long nozzle that mixes the parts when you press it out with a caulk gun.