electical power delivery from utility to rack - for the uninitiated

Mikado463 said:
Square D and call it a day IMO.

But I suspect there's some cryo treated, gold plated, audiophile certified piece out there for ridiculous $$ just itching to get in somebody's box ...............
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I agree with Dave on SQ D. Just be sure you use the QO line not the HomeLine. There is a big difference in quality.
 
Addressing before the wall detail allows for better choices after the wall. This is something once done, it’s final, a foundation.


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I usually buy SqD for value and price. Looks like CH Duel Function breakers are about $50 each. Maybe $3 more than SqD. Homeline panes are very affordable and decent for a regular old home.

Don't know what the clip is. Never heard of a breaker blowing off the bus. They clamp at a fault and the deadfront holds them in place. The deadfront also supresses the arch flash. Exploding breakers is more the problem. Shrapnel hitting you.

What none of these panes are is intrinsically safe. All the bus is always exposed when you open a live panel. IMO all the bus should be covered in a plastic shield that breaker by breaker space can be exposed to add new circuits. I hate working in a live panel just for that reason. Its such an issue, Intel demands this protection and all panelboards onsite have it in some fashion.
 
Tubes said:
Rather than theorizing how well the PS Audio regenerators work, you can order one and try it out in you own system for free. They will pay the shipping back to Colorado if you're not satisfied with the results. Listen for yourself instead of coming up with reasons why there shouldn't be an improvement.
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The last time I had a PS Audio P10 in my system I relegated it to the tv, laptop when charging, a lamp & a multiboard for when I wanted to charge my torch or something else. Thats how good I think of them. GigaWatt were my last go to but then I realised that it's all just a band-aid. Sure it may filter out one these & a bit of that.... Now, if the power is shite to start with & I own the place, I'll fix that first for a fraction of the cost.
 
Shadowfax said:
I think KingRex or another did a whole detailed thread on this last year.

I ran a dedicated 20amp line from my box to a receptacle box using Hospital Grade outlets. Just getting everything off of the rest of the house is a major improvement. Then you can shoot for the stars from there.
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This is my current arrangement for the monoblock amps. Newly run 20 amp circuit. I have a Bryson BiT15 for the pre/Dac/phono/TT stack, which is physically separate from amps +speakers.i recently got a double width rack fo the amps. Depending on finances, I will choose a power conditioner for the amp side of my system. Or move the Bryston over, and get something simple for the pre side of my system?
 
the "how to wire your house for good power" FAQ on the MSB support page has what seems to be a great first (and perhaps last) step on this topic -- it is echoed by many posting on this tread.

the article indicates a dedicated circuit with large gauge wire (10awg or larger) might obviate the need for any further power conditioning, regenerating, etc.
 
aKnyght said:
the "how to wire your house for good power" FAQ on the MSB support page has what seems to be a great first (and perhaps last) step on this topic -- it is echoed by many posting on this tread.

the article indicates a dedicated circuit with large gauge wire (10awg or larger) might obviate the need for any further power conditioning, regenerating, etc.
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Vince laid it out nicely, though I was hesitant and still am to do the silver paste.


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Reg panels i do like copper buss better but bolt down on copper is best. it also is much safer to work on. I never like the idea of pushing on a breaker onto buss with just an 1/8 inch plastic Insulator and it is both phases no less.
 
Shadowfax said:
Mine was fun. I was unable to run conduit, but still made a huge difference. My panel is on the outer wall of may garage. My listening-living room is the other end of the house. I had to go up into the crawl space - attic above the garage, then between the drop ceiling and the next floor, thru the wall of where my heater is, then down into the crawl space under my living room and up behind my rack thru the floor. I used heavy insulated outdoor 10g cable terminated at hospital grade outlets which other than the breaker would be the weak kinks.
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I know this is an older thread. However, your home config is exactly like mine: outlet box on outside wall by garage, with audio room on the diametrically opposite corner of the home.

My knee-jerk is to run conduit outside the home and simply drill through the wall to the inside where the audio system is.

Is there a reason NOT to do this--other than it is not aesthetically possible for most folks? Because my home is in LA, where everything is concrete stucco facade, and the metal conduit can be painted over and be hidden along the wall quite nicely. And plus, nearly everyone has this type of conduit running along the outside of their homes here because they have solar systems on their roof. So, I have an easy out, here.

Of course, on the INSIDE of the house, I probably would also just run some white plastic conduit from the outside drill point to the outlet box plugs. This wall is hidden behind the audio system anyway (not sure what buyers may think when we sell, though).

Any feedback? Is there any advantage to doing it "properly" they way you outlines, i.e., hiding it behind walls and flooring and embedding the outlets nicely behind drywall--other than to keep your wife happy?
 
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