Ed’s System

I believe he's using Switch > eR > Giga > Dac.

Just from reading the descriptions of what the Gigafoil and EtherRegen are designed to do:

Gigafoil: filter EMI by 100db in a range from 10 kHz to 10ghz.

EtherRegen: block all external leakage currents and reduction of clock phase noise.

I don't have any idea of -- how or if-- these techs compliment each other or if they might be redundant. I know John Swenson said he believed the Gigafoil would be superfluous to the eR.

To me, it sounds conceivable that they are addressing different noise issues and with different tech.
 
I believe he's using Switch > eR > Giga > Dac.

Just from reading the descriptions of what the Gigafoil and EtherRegen are designed to do:

Gigafoil: filter EMI by 100db in a range from 10 kHz to 10ghz.

EtherRegen: block all external leakage currents and reduction of clock phase noise.

I don't have any idea of -- how or if-- these techs compliment each other or if they might be redundant. I know John Swenson said he believed the Gigafoil would be superfluous to the eR.

To me, it sounds conceivable that they are addressing different noise issues and with different tech.

I think your right, and belief is best at church.

It’s very obvious in my system the Gigafoil optical filter simply makes things sound more natural, and should be highly considered by who ever does not use one.

Speaking of Gigafoil, you mentioned yours failed - did you contact them? It will interesting to hear the reason why and if they will help.


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Ha, I think I inadvertently set the voltage too high in the Keces psu and burned the Giga out. They're sending me a replacement at no charge. Pretty nice!!
 
Ha, I think I inadvertently set the voltage too high in the Keces psu and burned the Giga out. They're sending me a replacement at no charge. Pretty nice!!

Excellent, That is standup in book!

You probably now know, but I am almost certain it is 5V.

Look forward to hearing your experience.


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Yes, It's very cool that they replaced it as it was I who clearly fried the unit. To my defense, it happened when I was reconnecting stuff in a dark corner behind stuff while contorted in an uncomfortable yoga pose.
 
My system for the most part checked all the boxes. But just when you thought you were done and couldn’t wring out anything more without changing speakers, components or cables, it happens.

So my good friend KingRex, the forum instigator, installed a new Square D sub-panel early March 2020. The panels new location is still in the gym, but located 20’ now on the other side of room adjacent to the music room wall, a much straighter and shorter path, the branch circuit runs are now 12’ to my systems center. The new external sub panel is fed 4 AWG copper for power and grounding from the main panel, a step forward from the previous panel which ran aluminum.

This gave me the opportunity to tri-section the existing 45’ (down, over, up) Furutech FP S55N cable from the previous sub-panel, reterminate the OFC cable in all spades connected to additional Furutech GTX NCF R and G receptacles with plates and covers.

The new circuits allowed me now to plug the monos direct, and to group the phono and preamp, separate the DAC and server, and still run a separate circuit supporting the digital front ends foundation.

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Now adding more sweetness:

From a tip by friends, I researched a company Environmental Potentials, and one of their products is the EP2050 waveform filter and surge protector - it’s 3” diameter case mounts onto the service panel.

The processes of rectifying AC to DC, and inverting DC to AC, are responsible for generating 85% of power pollution. This pollution equals losses, unreliable performance, decreased asset lifespans, malfunctions, increased maintenance, and downtime. The 2050 installed on a 30 amp breaker converts pollution into heat within the unit rather than relying on ground, other system conductors, or even loads to provide the required attenuation. This eliminates harmful and unusable energy from your system and home.

King Rex and I installed 2050s in the main, and both sub panels, you supposedly only need one but they appear to be cumulative in performance.

Now here is were it gets crazy with the 2050s.

My amps are running cooler and louder. Prior they would hit 92 degrees reported from a hanging thermostat in under a couple of hours, it’s not a laser reading but does illustrate the ranges. They now run at 85 degrees after 6/8 hours of play they will approach 87/89 degrees - this means to me a gain in operating efficiency and when electronics run cooler, they are happy [emoji2]

New listening levels; How do you know your doing things right and the sound is not playing tricks on you and all the jargon above is subjective? When you achieve louder volumes at lower settings. I am getting sound just over the bottom of D’Agostino’s analog meter, prior it was closer to 25% proving efficiency - the EP 2050s was a big contributor to this.

Further we march;

Last week, I decided to relocate the LPS, modem and switch from the mechanical room and relocate this closer to the new audio room and make use of the new panel. I used the open receptacle that hosts ADD POWRs WIZARD for distribution in support of the movement of the digital foundation - this turned out to be another benefit.

Prior the modem and separate router located in the mechanical room adjacent to the gym had AudioQuest Diamond in and out to the AQVOX SE Switch that hosted a 45’ run of RJ45 Belkin cable made by Ghent (great value and quality) to the etherREGEN then AQ Diamond to Gigafoil, then a AQ Diamond to the Aurender - it still sounded good in comparison to many other systems, but going back and revisiting the theory of, “less can be more”, it was easily proved!

The 45’ span of coaxial allowed me to take out the AQVox SE feeding the etherREGEN and repurpose the AQVox SE and the 45’ of Belkin into the homes main network, another gain.

With a shorter RJ45 path allowing now use of one switch, the etherREGEN was chosen over the AQVox SE and plumbed with Audioquest Diamond RJ45s before and after the switch - it has made it getting off the couch embarrassing when people start to come over again.

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Results:

Conditioners, regenerators, transformers all may have their place, but not at the sacrifice of sound.

Starting with the basics is the electrical foundation, arguably one of the least expensive things you can do in audio, and the further you get to the panel, the better - it will make more of your system... after all electricity is what you here.

Blending in the EP2050 and restructuring the modem and switch path with the new panel all was cumulative to what I’m hearing and it can all be conducted in parts, so no stress.

Right now the amps have a King Kong grip on the speakers, it is very clear to hear deeper, tighter bass, a more pronounced mid-range that images voice and instruments with clear articulation of dynamics embraced with believable timbre, the top-end end blends effortlessly into the overall sound with not running bright or warm, it really is amazing what noise hides in a system.

The system has so much more controlled punch and vigor bringing out the best in music recordings. The sound has opened up revealing more detail, timbre and firm drive. It really has changed so much for the better, I can easily argue I overhauled the entire system. While I should have done this at the onset can be argued as a hindsight statement, you live and learn. This system has taken just shy of 4 years to accomplish, and while there a still a few things I could do, I’m ecstatic!

I hope this helps others think about their system and not to settle as I believe by not addressing the basics, the ones you can’t see, (think jewelry and bling), you are leaving a lot of sound locked into your system that it is totally capable of producing, dollars be damned!


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Thank Ed. Good report. I need to play with my power some more. Since our last conversations I to went to 2 circuits. 1 feeds my amps and the other the front end gear. Actually 3 as I have a third on the digital backbone.

I need to try my symphony at my panel. With the amps on their own feed, the impact of the unit is not as pronounced as when it was all on one.

Also need to try that EP2050.

I am still amazed how much smal changes make. I was having a little fatigue on my digital with my ew Audion Black Shadow amps. In a chat the other night a friend mentioned power. Owe yea. I put those Ching Ching or what have you cords on my digital. I moved them to my preamp and put my Fkund Music power cords to the digital. Eliminated the fatigue. Doesn't jump out as a sonic change, but it is clearly more relaxing and pleasant.

Thanks for all you feedback and sharing of ideas. Your inspiration helps me tune my system. Maybe some day my wife will let guests over again. Audio is more fun when hanging out with friends.
 
... just when you thought you were done and couldn’t wring out anything more without changing speakers, components or cables, it happens.

Results:

Starting with the basics is the electrical foundation, arguably one of the least expensive things you can do in audio, and the further you get to the panel, the better - it will make more of your system... after all electricity is what you here.

And I think this is the way. ;)
Good gear is great for sure, but these are the details that can make the difference between a good sound and a truly top sound.


Can i make a suggestion? :cool:


With the help of Kingrex certainly would be easy.
Try to switc the circuit breaker by a fuse holder.
Just don´t ask me why. Me too, i have the questions not the answers!


I have these (Version III)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ahp-Klangm...119855?hash=item2ac411afaf:g:znwAAOSwsRVb7WkS

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AHP-Cylind...108035?hash=item3660abd583:g:oSUAAOSwxMFeiiD4


:thumbsup:
 
Fuse vs Magnetic CB. People are always touting this or that $30 to $100 or so fuse. Always saying they have a sonic signature. I don't think I have ever heard someone say they hear a difference between CB. The Equitech power stations use SqD oem din rail mounted CB. Most power conditioners with a protective element use a CB. Even my preamp uses a CB.

Have you ever split open a fuse. Its a very thin wire or thin flat plate of metal. A CB is 2 metal contact plates with a pretty heavy copper strap between the line and load contacts. The though behind a CB being superior to a fuse is it passes more unobstructed current than a fuse. A fuse is an intentionally small resistive element deaigned to fail under a set load. A CB should never fail under load. It has a sensing element that opens the contacts under an overload condition. The internal components are significantly more robust than the element in a fuse. I have busted open both.

I don't doubt you hear a difference between fuses. But you almost have to ask why. Why do fuses sound different from each other but CB don't. Is what you hear with a fuse superior to a CB or just different. Are you actually using the fuse to tune your sound like a power cable. Do fuses restrict current. Your taking a 10 awg branch circut wire and inserting a short maybe 22 awg wire in line with the power supply. When I busted open a 200 amp fuse i was surprised it was only maybe a 1" wide, pretty flimsy piece of copper with a consistent hole pattern through the element plate. It was nothing compared to the 3/0 conductor fed from it. I remember being surprised how little material it was.
 
Kingrex

I think you are a man of experimentation.
But due to your professional training, i understand there are things that are difficult to accept.
Everything you said is completely logical.
But, as certanly you agree, the logical talk of those who do not believe in a series of tweaks, for example power cables, is very difficult to fight. Saiyng that, I know that you know that, in audio, logic does not always resist to the experimentation.


By the way: I have an uncle who is an electrician and it was he who did the electrical installation in my house. When i spoke to him on the fuse holder, he refused to do the job saying that i was already going crazy. :cool: And so I had to ask someone else. I don't regret it. I moved to the fuse holder and I'm not going back.


(do you know that there are still those who believe that valves sound better than transistors? :) And probably they are right) ;)
 
Kingrex

I think you are a man of experimentation.
But due to your professional training, i understand there are things that are difficult to accept.
Everything you said is completely logical.
But, as certanly you agree, the logical talk of those who do not believe in a series of tweaks, for example power cables, is very difficult to fight. Saiyng that, I know that you know that, in audio, logic does not always resist to the experimentation.


By the way: I have an uncle who is an electrician and it was he who did the electrical installation in my house. When i spoke to him on the fuse holder, he refused to do the job saying that i was already going crazy. :cool: And so I had to ask someone else. I don't regret it. I moved to the fuse holder and I'm not going back.


(do you know that there are still those who believe that valves sound better than transistors? :) And probably they are right) ;)

Spock

Thanks for the thought.

I too don’t doubt fuses do something to sound in components and distribution, and you have gained something from this - I just never went down that upgrade path.

There is a fuse in each of the Nordost MKII distribution strips I run.

Would fuses do something in my panel, I don’t know, first the breaker would have to fit as OEM, and before all that I would need to understand them better, I have zero knowledge in this department.


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I 100% ageee it will sound different. I just wonder the result. Have you done a real A-B. What did you hear. What changed from CB to fuse. Can you explain some of the differences. What to expect.
 
Allow me to reply with what I wrote in a Portuguese forum in July 2014
Note that first i made the simple exchange for an ordinary fuse holder and only later for an "audiophile" (AHP)

Going on the path of the fuses, and after having successfully tried to replace the circuit breaker of the electrical panel with a fuse holder, it was necessary to try to change the fuse.
Note that I do not speak to you of differences for which it is necessary to refine the ear, allowing us to even doubt whether they existed in fact. I speak of obvious differences in the first few seconds of hearing. And what kind of differences? Exactly the same type. Improved sound across the board, with an obvious upgrade in transparency and the system's ability to play louder and louder with less distortion. An enormous sea of ​​tranquility is perhaps the best summary of the effect of fuses. Note that I am not confusing this tranquility with loss of harmonics or information. On the contrary. The detail and the information seem to increase because there is a real cleaning in the sound. I read a comment on an international forum by someone who said that replacing fuses allowed him to get from the sound of transistors devices to the soft sound he usually only knew associated with valves. This is a good image of the velvety effect that fuses give to the sound. But if the fuse makes a difference, why not the fuse holder? Only buying I would know. Expecting to draw some conclusions from the opinions written on the net is an (almost) impossible task. There is also not enough information based on experience and unmistakably credible. So I had no choice but to try it myself. And now it made perfect sense to bet on the same brand (AHP).

My good friendsssssss! I don't know if trying the fuse holder first, it would also be at the second moment, that of changing the fuse, that i would notice the greatest impact. This considering my theory that, as things gets better in the system, each new arrangement seems to create even greater impact and necessarily generate a greater qualitative leap than the previous step. Such a geometric progression of performance that I talked about earlier. The truth is that fuse and fuse holder are at this moment for me Yin and Yang, they are two sides of the same coin, two objects that complement each other and that must be acquired simultaneously without fear. I recommend the purchase to everyone. A step that sooner or later all audiophiles should take. And if so, why not earlier? Even if you are still at the entry level in terms of the system, and possibly and apparently may not notice any big immediate gains, I do not hesitate to recommend this step because it is my full conviction that if you managed the issues related to electricity, the differences between active components will become more evident, allowing us to do better choices in the future. Today I do not dare to make judgments about many of the gear that passed for me because I admit that I did not hear them in the best conditions for a fair assessment.
So that my fascination with these magical objects that are fuses is clear, I tell you that the “search” will not end here. And notice that the experience, besides the banal ones, already counts on Bussman, AMR, Synergistic Research and now the AHP.

Will the fuse act as a filter? Most likely. ;)
 
Well, what you are showing a few post back is a din rail mounted fuse holder. If i were to make one, I would come of the main panel via a 20 amp branch circuit breaker, go to a metal box with a din rail in it, or just a fuse block, go through the fuse and out to my audio rack. In short, I am adding a fuse in the middle of my branch circuit with the hope it is doing some sort of filtering I like. I get where you are coming from. I just don't see a way to get away from circuit breakers. Even the main in my panel is a 200 Amp circuit breaker.

In industrial circumstances I have seen fused panelboards. They are used where very high AIC values are present. They are not inexpensive. A quick look says I would be spending around $4,000 to get a fused panelboard. That price may not include the fuses. That may not even be a switched input with a main fuse protecting the feeder and bus.

This also would not work in the USA as most all 120 volt branch circuit have to be AFCI protected. I have only seen this technology on a Circuit breaker.

To truly have a fused system I would need that very expensive industrial fused panelboard. I would need a 200Amp subfeed fuse block to feed a regular CB panelboard and power my house with that. From the industrial fused panel I would use 20 amp fuses to feed my audio rack. Technically they would not be NEC approved as they don't have the AFCI protection required by code. In my mind they would still be safe. I am convinced AFCI breakers are required because the industry lobbied to have stab in terminations in the back of receptacles and switches that don't grip well and arch all the time. Any good audio installation would only have wire under a clamp.

Another not code legal route would be a Square D QO bolt on CB panelboard. The AFCI CB are maybe $20 each, more expensive than the residential grade AFCI. That adds and additional $600 to an already $1200 set of CB. I could then bolt a ring terminal with a tap conductor and bring it to a fuse block for the audio branch. That would not be NEC approved either but would work and be safe. I still have a 200A Circuit breaker at the input to my panelboard. QO main breaker panelboard is about $600 compared to a residential grade which is about $120. The benefit of the QO panelboard is they have Copper bus. Residential are aluminum bus. Or some blend of metals. They are not copper.

Come to think of it, I could probably go into any residential panel and tap off the Bus at the bottom where they usually have holes drilled for thru lug applications. From there ring terminal a tap wire to a fuse block and out to the rack. I would not do this type work under my license. It is not code legal. It is pretty safe as I would mount the fuse block in the bottom of the panel so any fire would be contained in the panel. Not that I expect there to ever be one. But hey, anything can be done if you are willing to ignore parts of the code.
 
In my mind they would still be safe.

I agree with you that everything should be safe and legal.
The guy that make the change in my panel says that is safe. I´m not so sure if it is absolutely “legal” (technically approved)

But, just in case...

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Nice Euro panel. Looks like your setup is din rail mounted breakers so that fuse device should just go in your panel. Is your electrical 2 hots per branch. Each one of those breakers opening 2 legs. I see what your guy does not like then. You could blow one fuse and the other leg is still hot.
 
You know, I'm glad its you guys making all these "electrical panel mods" and not me.

Great quality sound is important, and so are dedicated lines to my room, but I need to admit that that is as far it will go with me. Personally, I'm just not willing to modify breaker panels to this extreme, use "audiophile grade" cabling in wall or in circuit box, adding or subtracting additional grounding potentials, nor muck with UBC code or take risks with components tending to A/C power feeds or subtends.

I shy away from my own or other "paid professional's" modification and potential fire/shock/grounding hazards that come with mucking around in the demarc.

Glad you've all found great gains in what you've built, but its simply not for me. Thanks for sharing your findings they do sound interesting.


Stay safe.
 
Everything I did at Ed's is all NEC complaint and run through my business with my license, bond and Insurance applied to the job. All above board.

Spocks setup is not NEC in a USA installation. I have no idea about Europe.
 
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