Thread: VAC Signature iQ200

Originally Posted by knghifi

How many hours on KT150 before giving up?

On my CAT JL7 and ARC REF250SE, KT150 new sounds harsh and 2D until ~50 hours before settling.

Just the burn-in Upscale Audio does, which is 75 hours. True, that is not fair. But I've had a lot of tubes from new, and in my experience the initial character usually carries forward when I've run from new. In particular, I've had 4 or 5 new batches of KT120 over the past 10 years, and they always sound great from new. That said, it's possible the KT150 could be an exception. A small part of me was expecting immediate greatness, and those hopes were smashed The slam and bass of the KT150 is pretty prodigal, though. I'll say that much.

Dear VAC-enthousiasts,

Is there someone who ever tried to replace the standardfuses inside the VAC Signature IQ200 for other fuses? Currently here in theNetherlands there is quite a hype wrt the Synergistic Research Orange Fuses.

Did someone already tried what happens when you exchange the standard fuse for a more audiophile one and if so,what is your experience?

Thanks in advance.

Best regards, Jan

Originally Posted by Jean Sibelius

Dear VAC-enthousiasts,

Did someone already tried what happens when you exchange the standard fuse for a more audiophile one and if so,what is your experience?

Just curious. So far nobody tried different fuses in de VAC Signature 200 IQ?

I have not although I have wanted to. Why don’t you take one for the team.

I've wondered about this too.

Question: on these amps (as well as on the Master preamp) the fuseholder has two fuses in it. Are these both active, or is one a spare? Anybody know?? I can't find anything in the owners manual about this.

Typically one is a spare.

Originally Posted by joeinid

Typically one is a spare.

Thanks Joe. That’s what I figured. I’m guessing the one clipped on is active, the one that is loosely slid in is the spare.


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Originally Posted by Dguitarnut

I have not although I have wanted to. Why don’t you take one for the team.

Hi Larry,

Thanks for your proposal .

I own a pair of Signature 200 IQ’s, so an alternative proposal would be that everybody who is interested in the outcome donates $10 (or more) to me until we reach the amount of 2 x $159 = $318 Dollars. Here in the Netherlands it are Euro’s by the way. Whatever happens I will clearly describe what the impact (or not) is of these fuses in these VAC’s. If I decide to keep the fuses I will refund the money to everyone. Fair deal?


Just kidding… I contacted Kevin Hayes if he has an opinion on fuses in general. If he indicates that it could help, I will order 2 or 4(?) of these SR fuses and will test them in my system (and will provide my feedback here).

All the best,

Jan

Ohhhhhhh NOOOOOO..........fuses respond different to European 220voltage......twice as many electrons run thru affecting ionic flux and diffraction of the superfluous subsonic frequency curves so I’m afraid we won’t be able to correlate the findings.

My VAC Renaissance phono stage uses a fuse holder with a spare, so I'd expect the same on 200iQ's. I actually had to use the spare when a fuse blew after 7 months, and then blew again a few months later (only an issue on power-up). After consulting with Kevin, I bought replacement fuses at a higher rating - 3A vs. 2.5A. It's been flawless ever since. I reckon a hot voltage from the outlets around here (~ 125V) might have something to do with it.

I'm at least somewhat interested in the Synergistic Research fuses, but haven't gone for any yet.

In the meantime I received a response from Kevin, wherein he indicates that it can make a difference, but he also attached a picture of a fuse that was still conducting current whereas it should have not. It melted, but was still conducting.

It was not clear which brand of fuse it was, but I decided to keep things as they currently are.

They are going crazy over the VAC Statements on WTB. Some people love them. Some hate the mere concept of tubes. Has to be SS. I have been using a SET 845 amp for a while now. I miss some of what the KT PP sound presents. The SET is better with giving a true picture of instruments and vocals in the midband. It is more realistic. The KT PP gives better bass. Its complete and hits you like a kick drum would. Not just a poof and tone. I think the top end shimmer of say rivets in a crash are more pronounced in my PP amps. Not fully sure. I would have to reinsert them to tell.

VAC has always been interesting to me. I have a demo Phi 160 for a short while. I though it to be a bit dry and unemotional. No obvious flaws. But it did not take me anywhere. I may have to listen to a signature one day.

Originally Posted by Radiohead

Hope everything one is staying safe and healthy! I've few questions. It'd be really helpful if anyone can provide some insight.

- How hot the 200IQ gets? I live in an smallish apartment in NYC. So excess heat is an issue in the summer. I'm planning to use 170IQ but can infer from 200IQ feedback here.
- How much more power is achieved by swapping out the KT88 with KT120 or KT150?
- My speaker is 86 dB Joseph Audio Perspective 2. It has a very easy impedance load that stays between 6-8 ohm. Any idea if VAC 170IQ is adequate for the Joseph? I do not need to play loud, 85-90 db loud MAX but mostly below 80/85 db. But I'm not sure if a low sensitive speaker still needs power to come alive even if you are not intending to play loud.

1. It really isn’t too bad for heat - especially just one. You should be fine.
2. Really no more power by swapping tubes.
3. You shouldn’t have a challenge driving them with the 170 or 200.

My IQ200 is in an east facing 11x14 room here in St Petersburg,Florida. It does get warmish during summer months but my overhead fan keeps me cool enough to not notice much. It’s my favorite piece of equipment and it’s a level above the excellent iq170 that I also auditioned which is the piece that made me fall in love with Vac tube gear. I also auditioned an Arc combo which to my ears didn’t have as relaxed of a sound as the iq170. The Mágicos I drive are also 86db and I never have had a ran out of juice problem.

Sorry double post

Originally Posted by mulveling

So this weekend I went back to trying the original Gold Lion KT88 in my 200 iQ monos (having run Tung Sol KT120 for a long time) and have to say I really really enjoyed it. This may very well be the preference going forward. My monos are probably finally fully burned in now, since receiving them 6 months ago (I don’t do burn in other than my listening), plus other slight system tweaks, so maybe that had something to do with it. But also I tried KT150 again and have to say those are still just awful in my system. Dark and dead up top. Not even close to the KT88 and KT120 here.

In general I’m still super impressed by these amps. I tried my old Rogue Apollo Darks again too, and there’s just no comparison. The VACs are worth the high chunk of money!

Not surprised you went back to the stock tubes. They are really good. Only my 1960’s GoldLion KT88’s beat them.

No surprise on the Rogue either. The VAC is just top stuff. I love watching them being made. Serious hand made workmanship. When they’re putting together a Statement piece (takes MANY months), I just watch the progress in awe. Love the point to point wiring.


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Welcome!

The Orange fuses do a great job. Thank you for your thoughts.

Originally Posted by Dizzie

Joe, Are the Orange fuses slow blow? There is very little information on the Synergistic Audio website.

I honestly don’t know. Anytime I’ve gotten one, the manufacturer offered it as part of the upgrade. I never bothered to check.

Would you say though a blue fuse would be better than an orange one when playing anything by BB King and Muddy Waters?

I’m still cranking Kt-150s in mine but occasionally I put in the Golden Lion KT88S.
I would still like to get a quad of KR KT88´s at a great price from someone!

The ones I have indicate ‘slow blow’.

SO - how many of us 200iQ owners are already considering an upgrade to a new Master 300 (me for one)?
I can't swing 2 Masters. But I've been told a single 300 should readily dispatch a pair of 200iQ's. And I guess the other alternative would be to pray for a used Statement 450S iQ to drop from the sky? Also wondering how an older Statement 450S non-iQ would compare to a Master 300.

Incidentally, I finally tried a single stereo 200iQ to see how much sound quality drop-off that represents (currently running a Master preamp). Yikes! The 2nd one went back in VERY quickly...

Originally Posted by mulveling

SO - how many of us 200iQ owners are already considering an upgrade to a new Master 300 (me for one)?
I can't swing 2 Masters. But I've been told a single 300 should readily dispatch a pair of 200iQ's. And I guess the other alternative would be to pray for a used Statement 450S iQ to drop from the sky? Also wondering how an older Statement 450S non-iQ would compare to a Master 300.

Incidentally, I finally tried a single stereo 200iQ to see how much sound quality drop-off that represents (currently running a Master preamp). Yikes! The 2nd one went back in VERY quickly...

I’m pining for a pair of Master 300’s. If anyone is interested in our demo 200iQ’s, PM me!


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Originally Posted by Mike

I’m pining for a pair of Master 300’s. If anyone is interested in our demo 200iQ’s, PM me!


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I thought I was safe when I unsubscribed to the FOR SALE forum!

I have really loved my 200IQ. I ended up going back to the stock tubes after trying a lot of different stuff. they sound best for my ear.

Looking forward to learning more about the 300. It would need to be a truly big jump for me to want to do a new purchase considering how much I do love my system now. I'm looking forward to reviews of the 300 when the time comes.

It's been a few years since I was active here. Good to see some of the same names! Cheers

I have been incognito myself…….I have been so happy with my Vac iq200, Vac Master pre, Magico S3Mk2 and the simethicone 80mg tablets that my gas symptoms had completely subsided.

Originally Posted by Dguitarnut

I have been incognito myself…….I have been so happy with my Vac iq200, Vac Master pre, Magico S3Mk2 and the simethicone 80mg tablets that my gas symptoms had completely subsided.

I absolutely love my MSB Ref, but I had a VAC Master before that and there are parts that I do miss. I'm not sure how much has changed in the last couple of years, but the VAC Master felt to me like the best bang for the buck at the time. It just made the music sparkle in the best ways.

I am still very happy with my 200IQ mono’s, so for me no changes and/or upgrades to e.g. a 300

Whilst waiting for final details of the VAC Master 300 amp, I'm experienced a renewed love for my pair of 200iQs. This is coupled with a recent motivation to slightly "simplify" the frills in my system, whereby I've started removing various tweaks. So as part of that, the stock GL KT88 & Tung-Sol 6SN7 tubes are back in my 200iQs, and they're resting on hockey pucks instead of the CMS platforms! (lol) The CMS platforms will be coming back eventually; I just got tired of moving them around for amp swaps.

I have to say - VAC instruments tend to be voiced very carefully from the factory with the STOCK tubes, and often I end up causing more harm than good trying to improve on these with tube rolls. I had Tung-Sol KT120 and Sylvania 6SN7GTA "tallboys" in there. I'm now admitting to myself the stock choices are better. I'd also tried to use some of the sweet older 6SN7GT / VT231 variants, but it's bloody difficult to get quiet, strong and balanced examples of these in quantities needed.

As I won't get back to my hifi until the weekend, I'm looking for any feedback & experience on the following:

1. Balanced vs. SE input mode.
   Curiously, the specs list the SE inputs at a 3dB higher gain than balanced! I also use a VAC Master preamp, which will put out the same gain in SE or Balanced modes. So I can get 3dB extra gain by switching to from XLR to RCA interconnects (yes I know I have to flip the SE switches too) - that might be nice. Has anyone compared XLR vs. RCA on 200iQs? Is there any sonic consequence to this, good or bad? I'm using a shielded 1.5m run of cables, where the transmission advantages of XLR won't matter.
2. Has anyone tried the Electro Harmonix KT88 or 6SN7 in these amps?
   They're from the same factory as Gold Lion / Tung-Sol "reissues" so it might not be a huge disruption to the VAC's voicing, whilst also giving a slightly different flavor that might work with certain genres...like I dunno, rock music? When I tried EH EL34 and EH 6SN7 ages ago, they seemed to be really good for rock. Not the most refined sounding tubes, but a fun listen. The Tung-Sol reissues sound similar to my memory of the EH 6SN7 tubes, but a bit warmer. I'd also be very interested in any experiences with Mullard KT88 reissues, or any other brand of KT88 for that matter (even Chinese).

Another avenue of "simplification" I've been kicking around: I may have over-silver'd my system cabling, and need to incorporate more copper again. Yikes. All of my interconnects and speaker cabling have been solid silver, for years now (at least I have copper AQ Hurricane PC cords everywhere). This weekend I went from a double-run biwire of 100% AQ silver (Kilimanjaro, top & bottom) back to a 50/50 silver & copper run (Kilimanjaro top, Mont Blanc bottom), and really liked it! The timbre seems much more natural this way. I think I want to keep looking in this direction. My "silver craze" traces back to the days when I ran Tannoy Canterbury SE with lower level components than now - my current GR series Canterbury are much more detailed, and with more top-end energy, whereas the SE needed the silver "boost".

Vac makes the best or of the best tubes amps
Every time I see vac the sound is amazing just real music playing
If I ever buy a tube amp for my big rig it’s got to be them for sure

Been doing more 6SN7 rolling experiments. I have lots of old 6SN7 now, and have been thoroughly testing them (MaxiPreamp II tester, then into a headphone amp's V1 slot for listening tests before 200iQ. Lots of old 6SN7GT have problems passing these 2 tests!!). The most surprising finding is that using all vintage tubes (both V1 and V2 slots for 8 total tubes in a pair of 200iQ) actually moves the SQ *backwards*. You really need to keep those stock Russian 6SN7GTB tubes in the V2 slots. I know the inclination is that old tubes are better sounding, and so a full set of NOS should be best. But those vintage tubes just aren't stiff enough to drive the big power tubes. You end up sacrificing dynamics and even image depth - and get a more diffuse, unengaging sound. Where the great vintage 1940s GT tubes shine is in the V1 slots. That's where they provide their magic tone, articulation and air, depending on which specific variant you use. WONDERFUL! Fortunately, it's also a LOT easier to find 4 of a vintage type than 8. I highly recommend this combination. With the right vintage V1 tubes, it's like a major component upgrade.

Originally Posted by mulveling

Been doing more 6SN7 rolling experiments. I have lots of old 6SN7 now, and have been thoroughly testing them (MaxiPreamp II tester, then into a headphone amp's V1 slot for listening tests before 200iQ. Lots of old 6SN7GT have problems passing these 2 tests!!). The most surprising finding is that using all vintage tubes (both V1 and V2 slots for 8 total tubes in a pair of 200iQ) actually moves the SQ *backwards*. You really need to keep those stock Russian 6SN7GTB tubes in the V2 slots. I know the inclination is that old tubes are better sounding, and so a full set of NOS should be best. But those vintage tubes just aren't stiff enough to drive the big power tubes. You end up sacrificing dynamics and even image depth - and get a more diffuse, unengaging sound. Where the great vintage 1940s GT tubes shine is in the V1 slots. That's where they provide their magic tone, articulation and air, depending on which specific variant you use. WONDERFUL! Fortunately, it's also a LOT easier to find 4 of a vintage type than 8. I highly recommend this combination. With the right vintage V1 tubes, it's like a major component upgrade.

Same experience with me. NOS 6SN7s just couldn't touch the stock ones.

Originally Posted by rrwmd

Same experience with me. NOS 6SN7s just couldn't touch the stock ones.

+1


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Originally Posted by rrwmd

Same experience with me. NOS 6SN7s just couldn't touch the stock ones.

You guys should try NOS in just the V1 slots, if you still have any around. It can be wonderful! But yeah, NOS tubes in the V2 slots is a disaster here, and simply using the stock Russian GTB tubes in all slots is already so easy and so wonderful sounding. If running NOS in just V1 is a (+) to sound quality, running all NOS is a (--).

It really makes me think though, maybe Kevin could have used a different tube type with more drive, or a couple more 6SN7, for the V2 slots to drive the KT tubes? I'd played around with 6SN7GT in headphone amps years ago, and their sound starts falling apart like this (i.e. like I heard with NOS in the V2 slots) when you push them AT ALL. The 6SN7 likes to be coasting. I tested the crap out of my tubes yesterday, and noticed every Russian GTB measured at least 10% higher in transconductance than even my strongest NOS. It feels like the V2 slots really depend on that extra drive. Also it makes my think those V2 slots need to be kept with fresh tubes in them - don't wait until they've lost measurable strength to replace them.

Hi everyone,

I have a question about tube replacement.

In the mean time I own my pair of VAC 200 IQ’s for almost 4 years. I did not clock each hour of use nor the tube check does indicate that tubes need to be replaced (already). Nevertheless I am curious when do other (VAC) owners decide to replace the tubes of their amplifier(s) (and if so, only one or all tubes at the same time). Thanks in advance for your feedback and considerations.

Best regards, Jan

If it's been 4 years, then unless they've been sitting mostly unused, I'd try to get a full set NOW, but definitely also keep your old tubes as spares. The Russian tube supply is drying up AGAIN (almost same time as last year), so get them now if you can. The 6SN7 should generally last longer than KT88. It's fine to use vintage 6SN7GT in V1 slots, but be aware that V2 is much harder on them. I stick to GTA and GTB types in V2, and anyways I don't think you're going to beat the performance of Russian Tung-Sol GTB in V2.

I was running KT120 and replaced them after about 2 years (used regularly every weekend). I was being exceedingly conservative, but I did notice the 200iQs eat up the side getters faster than my Rogue Apollo monoblocks ever did.

Originally Posted by mulveling

If it's been 4 years, then unless they've been sitting mostly unused, I'd try to get a full set NOW, but definitely also keep your old tubes as spares. The Russian tube supply is drying up AGAIN (almost same time as last year), so get them now if you can. The 6SN7 should generally last longer than KT88. It's fine to use vintage 6SN7GT in V1 slots, but be aware that V2 is much harder on them. I stick to GTA and GTB types in V2, and anyways I don't think you're going to beat the performance of Russian Tung-Sol GTB in V2.

I was running KT120 and replaced them after about 2 years (used regularly every weekend). I was being exceedingly conservative, but I did notice the 200iQs eat up the side getters faster than my Rogue Apollo monoblocks ever did.

Thanks for your feedback. Good to hear that you prefer the same tube setting as I have. Agree, just to be on the safe side… order now :-). Will do!

Best regards, Jan

In the past I've been a big downer on the topic of a single 200iQ stereo, versus a pair in mono. I have to revise that opinion. Since the absolutely stunning Master 300's took over my main system duties, I've been playing the 200iQ's in a second system. This 2nd system is smaller and scaled down. Even allocating floor space for a pair of 200iQ feels overcrowded. And then, we have the Russian tube supply issue - I'd much rather rap on a quad of KT88/KT120 at a time, versus an octet!

So given that, I've been experimenting all over again with amps in this 2nd system (I've previously experimented with all these same amps in the main system):

* Rogue Apollo Dark (high power PP tube, 250 Watts/ch) - Best bass and dynamics. Good treble. Worst midrange - always a little dry and sterile, no matter what you do (tube rolling, triode mode, etc). In the past, this midrange didn't bother me as much as it does...now, I just can't get over it. Still a great rock & roll amp! Or for large-scale orchestral (not that I play it much) - the dynamics are stunning.

* Phison A2.120SE (Danish boutique, solid-state class AB 120 Watts/ch) - Good at everything. Very close 2nd in bass to Apollos. The Phison's bass is a little tighter and quicker; Apollo's bass a little fuller and more satisfying. Midrange done right for SS, here - it's even sweeter than the tubed Apollos! Can be a tad bright in some systems (Tannoy pepperpot tweeters can be rough), but not in this one (Tannoy tulip tweeter, even being much cheaper, is smoother).

* VAC 200iQ stereo - Better midrange by far, versus Phison and Apollos. Super sweet. Most holographic, 3D image. Most natural sound - full and satisfying, and with the most detail (except in bass). Bass is a bit soft and sluggish; starts to fall apart a little on hard rock.

* VAC 200iQ monos - Takes the stereo qualities and tightens everything up. Notes are fleshed out with a more weight and solidity; mono also renders cleaner tighter edges without harshness. Bass power and clarity / tightness is significantly improved. However, I STILL feel its bass loses out versus both the Phison and Apollos. I'm talking about hard rock at loud volumes, where the beat is hitting hard and fast. The 200iQ monos also seem to aggravate some room acoustic issues here in certain bass frequencies, whereas the other amps glide through this more easily. Now here's what's interesting - I find the 200iQ stereo might have a more "romantic" tilt to the midrange. Better clarity and detail on the monos for sure but...stereo configuration seems a little more rich, organic and satisfying somehow. You know what - I need to try stereo bi-amping!

* VAC 300 Master monos (only used in main rig) - Compile all the BEST attributes from the above amps, improve them further, and put them all together again. Add some "how did they do that" magic, for good measure. That only begins to express how amazing these amps are! Worth the price (you have to sit down for that part). Single biggest component impact I've ever heard in 20+ years. I haven't even tried a single 300 in stereo mode, yet. I might be in for a good surprise? My speakers are 8 ohms, and like with 200iQ's the 300's mono mode appears to be tap-optimized for 4 ohms (better match to 8 ohms in stereo?). I haven't picked on Kevin yet about the topic of taps for 8 ohm speakers, but I want to.

Anyways - I think a single 200iQ stereo amp might be looking like the winner in 2nd system! VAC sound, especially midrange, is very addictive.

Originally Posted by mulveling

In the past I've been a big downer on the topic of a single 200iQ stereo, versus a pair in mono. I have to revise that opinion. Since the absolutely stunning Master 300's took over my main system duties, I've been playing the 200iQ's in a second system. This 2nd system is smaller and scaled down. Even allocating floor space for a pair of 200iQ feels overcrowded. And then, we have the Russian tube supply issue - I'd much rather rap on a quad of KT88/KT120 at a time, versus an octet!

So given that, I've been experimenting all over again with amps in this 2nd system (I've previously experimented with all these same amps in the main system):

* Rogue Apollo Dark (high power PP tube, 250 Watts/ch) - Best bass and dynamics. Good treble. Worst midrange - always a little dry and sterile, no matter what you do (tube rolling, triode mode, etc). In the past, this midrange didn't bother me as much as it does...now, I just can't get over it. Still a great rock & roll amp! Or for large-scale orchestral (not that I play it much) - the dynamics are stunning.

* Phison A2.120SE (Danish boutique, solid-state class AB 120 Watts/ch) - Good at everything. Very close 2nd in bass to Apollos. The Phison's bass is a little tighter and quicker; Apollo's bass a little fuller and more satisfying. Midrange done right for SS, here - it's even sweeter than the tubed Apollos! Can be a tad bright in some systems (Tannoy pepperpot tweeters can be rough), but not in this one (Tannoy tulip tweeter, even being much cheaper, is smoother).

* VAC 200iQ stereo - Better midrange by far, versus Phison and Apollos. Super sweet. Most holographic, 3D image. Most natural sound - full and satisfying, and with the most detail (except in bass). Bass is a bit soft and sluggish; starts to fall apart a little on hard rock.

* VAC 200iQ monos - Takes the stereo qualities and tightens everything up. Notes are fleshed out with a more weight and solidity; mono also renders cleaner tighter edges without harshness. Bass power and clarity / tightness is significantly improved. However, I STILL feel its bass loses out versus both the Phison and Apollos. I'm talking about hard rock at loud volumes, where the beat is hitting hard and fast. The 200iQ monos also seem to aggravate some room acoustic issues here in certain bass frequencies, whereas the other amps glide through this more easily. Now here's what's interesting - I find the 200iQ stereo might have a more "romantic" tilt to the midrange. Better clarity and detail on the monos for sure but...stereo configuration seems a little more rich, organic and satisfying somehow. You know what - I need to try stereo bi-amping!

* VAC 300 Master monos (only used in main rig) - Compile all the BEST attributes from the above amps, improve them further, and put them all together again. Add some "how did they do that" magic, for good measure. That only begins to express how amazing these amps are! Worth the price (you have to sit down for that part). Single biggest component impact I've ever heard in 20+ years. I haven't even tried a single 300 in stereo mode, yet. I might be in for a good surprise? My speakers are 8 ohms, and like with 200iQ's the 300's mono mode appears to be tap-optimized for 4 ohms (better match to 8 ohms in stereo?). I haven't picked on Kevin yet about the topic of taps for 8 ohm speakers, but I want to.

I completely agree! They’re one of two of my favorite amps in the store. And clearly the Master 300’s are best looking!


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Originally Posted by mulveling

In the past I've been a big downer on the topic of a single 200iQ stereo, versus a pair in mono. I have to revise that opinion. Since the absolutely stunning Master 300's took over my main system duties, I've been playing the 200iQ's in a second system. This 2nd system is smaller and scaled down. Even allocating floor space for a pair of 200iQ feels overcrowded. And then, we have the Russian tube supply issue - I'd much rather rap on a quad of KT88/KT120 at a time, versus an octet!

So given that, I've been experimenting all over again with amps in this 2nd system (I've previously experimented with all these same amps in the main system):

* Rogue Apollo Dark (high power PP tube, 250 Watts/ch) - Best bass and dynamics. Good treble. Worst midrange - always a little dry and sterile, no matter what you do (tube rolling, triode mode, etc). In the past, this midrange didn't bother me as much as it does...now, I just can't get over it. Still a great rock & roll amp! Or for large-scale orchestral (not that I play it much) - the dynamics are stunning.

* Phison A2.120SE (Danish boutique, solid-state class AB 120 Watts/ch) - Good at everything. Very close 2nd in bass to Apollos. The Phison's bass is a little tighter and quicker; Apollo's bass a little fuller and more satisfying. Midrange done right for SS, here - it's even sweeter than the tubed Apollos! Can be a tad bright in some systems (Tannoy pepperpot tweeters can be rough), but not in this one (Tannoy tulip tweeter, even being much cheaper, is smoother).

* VAC 200iQ stereo - Better midrange by far, versus Phison and Apollos. Super sweet. Most holographic, 3D image. Most natural sound - full and satisfying, and with the most detail (except in bass). Bass is a bit soft and sluggish; starts to fall apart a little on hard rock.

* VAC 200iQ monos - Takes the stereo qualities and tightens everything up. Notes are fleshed out with a more weight and solidity; mono also renders cleaner tighter edges without harshness. Bass power and clarity / tightness is significantly improved. However, I STILL feel its bass loses out versus both the Phison and Apollos. I'm talking about hard rock at loud volumes, where the beat is hitting hard and fast. The 200iQ monos also seem to aggravate some room acoustic issues here in certain bass frequencies, whereas the other amps glide through this more easily. Now here's what's interesting - I find the 200iQ stereo might have a more "romantic" tilt to the midrange. Better clarity and detail on the monos for sure but...stereo configuration seems a little more rich, organic and satisfying somehow. You know what - I need to try stereo bi-amping!

* VAC 300 Master monos (only used in main rig) - Compile all the BEST attributes from the above amps, improve them further, and put them all together again. Add some "how did they do that" magic, for good measure. That only begins to express how amazing these amps are! Worth the price (you have to sit down for that part). Single biggest component impact I've ever heard in 20+ years. I haven't even tried a single 300 in stereo mode, yet. I might be in for a good surprise? My speakers are 8 ohms, and like with 200iQ's the 300's mono mode appears to be tap-optimized for 4 ohms (better match to 8 ohms in stereo?). I haven't picked on Kevin yet about the topic of taps for 8 ohm speakers, but I want to.

Anyways - I think a single 200iQ stereo amp might be looking like the winner in 2nd system! VAC sound, especially midrange, is very addictive.

Fantastic write up. Thanks for sharing!

Originally Posted by Mike

I completely agree! They’re one of two of my favorite amps in the store. And clearly the Master 300’s are best looking!


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Yep, your production 300 Master design is really stunning in black! Have you by chance compared stereo versus mono mode yet? Or stereo bi-amped versus monos? I wonder if it's going to be similar to the 200iQ's story, just scaled up to the 300.

Originally Posted by mulveling

Yep, your production 300 Master design is really stunning in black! Have you by chance compared stereo versus mono mode yet? Or stereo bi-amped versus monos? I wonder if it's going to be similar to the 200iQ's story, just scaled up to the 300.

Yes, the monos will ruin you! They are sooooooo good.


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My dream VAC is the Statement 452 iQ.