Set-Up Advice?

Actually, Yamaha is conservative with both their specs and protection schemes. I know this from both engineering and national repair centers for all the major brands. That AVR is rated for "100w" but is more likely to have about 80 w rms clean <1% THD into 8 ohms full bandwidth 20-20k driving 2 channels, maybe a bit more into 4, with dynamic peak capability around 130-140w. That is more than enough power to destroy those tiny speakers. Music is not continuous, but dynamic.
The belief that those "Yamaha watts" are somehow magically inferior is simply wishful thinking fallacy. There is zero logical or technical reason for him to ditch that AVR with those speakers. Only if he went to a more demanding speaker load would that make any sense from a scientific (vs belief) standpoint.
The S&V review stated they distorted when crossed <110hz. That's the physical reality problem, anything below 110Hz requires larger excursion than a 3" cone can provide. Even 20 watts @ 100hz will distort that speaker badly. It's all very very basic science here. 1 watt is 1J/s, not imaginary concocted voodoo doodoo definitions.
Either cross higher or get >4" satellites.
 
It all sounds good to me... but I need to know what "concocted voodoo doodoo definitions" are :D....

I always thought Yamaha was better than the run of the mill, but have no experience with Yamaha since jumping back into this crazy hobby a few years ago... well actually that is not true, I did buy a cheap Yamaha CD/SACD spinner that was amazingly good for really inexpensive (I want to say like $350???). We use it mainly for movies in a secondary system now... but it really did do well with SACDs.
 

I always thought Yamaha was better than the run of the mill, but have no experience with Yamaha since jumping back into this crazy hobby a few years ago... well actually that is not true, I did buy a cheap Yamaha CD/SACD spinner that was amazingly good for really inexpensive (I want to say like $350???). We use it mainly for movies in a secondary system now... but it really did do well with SACDs.
Randy, in their 130+ years of existence, Yamaha has probably forgotten more about amplification that any boutique amp company will ever know. They are also one of the largest musical instrument manufacturers, they know a thing or two about sound.
I'm not saying this $300 AVR is the last word in amplification...it isn't. I certainly wouldn't hook it to a large stat, etc.
But the problem Casey is having has zero to do with his amplification..and everything to do with his tiny sats. Lucky him that there are actual measurements provided in my link, showing how easy a load the B&Ws are for even the most modest amp. But they can't escape those pesky laws of physics with those tiny midbasses. So Casey can either cross high as I and the S&V guy both suggest, or look for speakers with bigger more capable midbasses, than can handle a 80-90hz XO. B&W makes plenty that can. Keep the impedance >4ohm and that Yamaha will drive them with aplomb. Upgrade to big stat etc. and yeah...he'll need a new amp too.

cheers,

AJ
 
AJ, you are wrong. Do some Googling or read some Yamaha A/V reviews of receivers from that era, they absolutely are not under rated, they are over rated. Why would they rate at 1kHz with one channel drive? If not to boaster the rating. Basic amplifier design dictates you have a large enough power supply. Building a piano has nothing to do with a receiver. The specs of the receiver don't even specify RMS or peak, your rant is more than baseless and just wrong. As stated before, it's not just Yamaha that overrated the power. Some of the online reviews and print magazines began to point this out which helped some but still hasn't convinced honest ratings.

You are also wrong about speaker drivers. I'm not saying this is the case with the M1 but there are 3 and 4 inch drivers capable of incredible power handling. You talk like all 4 inch drivers are created equal. B&W is not some off brandpaper product. B&W states on their website what the M1 is capable of.

You want to talk physics, which blows a speaker quicker, too much power, or, not enough power? When the demand is on that receiver to produce volume from a 85dB speaker it's going to clip like no one's business. You're so full of it, 80 watts clean, Yamaha stated themselves 100 with 1 channel at 1kHz at .9% distortion. Why would they say that if they could produce 80 watts clean?

We're talking A/V receivers not a Harmon Kardon stereo receiver. Those cost over $500 in the day and produced about twice their rated power. You know why< they had an adequate power supply and a lot of current.

Now, with that, either approach we're discussing, more power, or different speakers, will help his situation. However, it's not just larger drivers, if the speaker isn't more efficient he will be about in the same situation as now. There's no way in hell that receiver is over driving those B&W speakers, that receiver is crapping it's pants all over the place trying to supply the demand on it.

Actually, Yamaha is conservative with both their specs and protection schemes. I know this from both engineering and national repair centers for all the major brands. That AVR is rated for "100w" but is more likely to have about 80 w rms clean <1% THD into 8 ohms full bandwidth 20-20k driving 2 channels, maybe a bit more into 4, with dynamic peak capability around 130-140w. That is more than enough power to destroy those tiny speakers. Music is not continuous, but dynamic.
The belief that those "Yamaha watts" are somehow magically inferior is simply wishful thinking fallacy. There is zero logical or technical reason for him to ditch that AVR with those speakers. Only if he went to a more demanding speaker load would that make any sense from a scientific (vs belief) standpoint.
The S&V review stated they distorted when crossed <110hz. That's the physical reality problem, anything below 110Hz requires larger excursion than a 3" cone can provide. Even 20 watts @ 100hz will distort that speaker badly. It's all very very basic science here. 1 watt is 1J/s, not imaginary concocted voodoo doodoo definitions.
Either cross higher or get >4" satellites.
 
AJ, you are wrong. Do some Googling or read some Yamaha A/V reviews of receivers from that era, they absolutely are not under rated, they are over rated. Why would they rate at 1kHz with one channel drive? If not to boaster the rating. Basic amplifier design dictates you have a large enough power supply. Building a piano has nothing to do with a receiver. The specs of the receiver don't even specify RMS or peak, your rant is more than baseless and just wrong. As stated before, it's not just Yamaha that overrated the power. Some of the online reviews and print magazines began to point this out which helped some but still hasn't convinced honest ratings.
https://www.soundandvision.com/content/yamaha-rx-v371-av-receiver-ht-labs-measures
with two channels driving 8-ohm loads, reaches 0.1% distortion at 81.9 watts and 1% distortion at 95.3 watts. Into 4 ohms, the amplifier reaches 0.1% distortion at 100.6 watts and 1% distortion at 121.1 watts.
Hmmm, speaking of googling and ranting. One of the two of us looks audiophile silly right now. Care to guess who? :P

You are also wrong about speaker drivers.
But of course. What would I know about speaker drivers compared to an audiophile? ;)

You want to talk physics
With an audiophile? Now you're really making me laugh. You won't begin to comprehend this, but let's try anyway:
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/spl_max1.xls
It will give an idea of driver excursion vs spl vs frequency...all very very basic physics...and why subwoofer drivers are very different from tweeters in ability to physical displace air. I'll even help you with Sd, which is not the frame diameter, but the around 3" cone (surround fudge factor included). Of course being the real speaker/physics expert here, you knew all this of course. :)

There's no way in hell that receiver is over driving those B&W speakers, that receiver is crapping it's pants all over the place trying to supply the demand on it.
Yes, that must be it, you've provided such solid evidence.
I guess the SV guy was clipping his amp into the mighty 3" cone also? Nevermind...:hey:
 
So, another newbie question - is there a recommended AVR that can do double duty for home theater/music listening? Alternately, I guess the other option would be to pick up a separate receiver for listening to music. But can you actually switch between two amps/receivers with one pair of speakers?

I believe that spending a lot on AV receivers will only get you a modest increase in stereo sound quality. When you upgrade your AV receiver, make sure you buy one with "pre-out".

I maintain the position that for stereo music listening it's best to have a separate stereo amplifier. However, since raising the crossover with your current setup does not cost anything, try that first then decide your next step.

Yes, it is possible to share the same front speakers for movie and music. You need an AV receiver with "pre-out" and a stereo amplifier (or pre-amp) with "HT Bypass" feature.

Here's my setup:

Movie: Video player -> AV receiver pre-out -> pre-amp in HT Bypass mode -> power amp -> front speakers

Music: Lumin -> pre-amp -> power amp -> front speakers

I use the pre-amp remote to switch between these two sources. You can achieve the same thing with an integrated amplifier with HT Bypass.
 
you should include the whole story: Five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
0.1% distortion at 32.4 watts
1% distortion at 35.1 watts
It's also odd how it jumps from .1 to 1 with just a few watts in either measurement.

From the knowledge, or, lack there of you've shown so far I'm not convinced you know much about speakers at all.

The fact still remains it takes a lot of power to get loud with 85dB speakers.

https://www.soundandvision.com/content/yamaha-rx-v371-av-receiver-ht-labs-measures

Hmmm, speaking of googling and ranting. One of the two of us looks audiophile silly right now. Care to guess who? :P


But of course. What would I know about speaker drivers compared to an audiophile? ;)


With an audiophile? Now you're really making me laugh. You won't begin to comprehend this, but let's try anyway:
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/spl_max1.xls
It will give an idea of driver excursion vs spl vs frequency...all very very basic physics...and why subwoofer drivers are very different from tweeters in ability to physical displace air. I'll even help you with Sd, which is not the frame diameter, but the around 3" cone (surround fudge factor included). Of course being the real speaker/physics expert here, you knew all this of course. :)


Yes, that must be it, you've provided such solid evidence.
I guess the SV guy was clipping his amp into the mighty 3" cone also? Nevermind...:hey:
 
you should include the whole story: Five channels driven continuously into 8-ohm loads:
0.1% distortion at 32.4 watts
1% distortion at 35.1 watts
It's also odd how it jumps from .1 to 1 with just a few watts in either measurement.
That has zero to do with 2 ch, dynamic music. There is no circumstance where 5 ch have to put out continuous power. It's a stress test and simply shows Yamahas aggressive protection scheme. You really should stop now...if you had cognizance. ;)
The 2ch power into 4 ohms will destroy those tiny toy speakers. Luckily they will distort a lot first, as Casey and the SV guy found.

The fact still remains it takes a lot of power to get loud with 85dB speakers.
You really should try reading my links. They measure lower than that...as expected by such a tiny speaker.
The sensitivity has zero to do with Sd x Xmax, which gives the displacement of that minuscule cone...and resulting SPL vs Frequency. Anything below 100Hz will be a disaster, simply because a tiny cone cannot produce the required displacement...as Casey found. Physics 101...but alas.
Maybe a bit more Google? :D
 
RX-V371
AV Receiver

Amplifier Section
Channel 5.1

Rated Output Power (1kHz, 1ch driven)
100W (6ohms, 0.9% THD)

Dynamic Power per Channel (8/6/4/2 ohms)
-/105/130/150W

I can only assume "dynamic" = peak, and not, RMS. This means the receiver can maybe do the 50 watts I originally pstated way back. And, that's at only 1kHz, not full frequency bandwidth. That measurement you found fails to give how they arrived at their measurements. "Dynamic" means the receiver hits that rating at very short bursts. Still not enough to satisfy most listeners with 85dB speakers.

If the receiver really had enough power to over drive the M1 the woofers would give a popping sound as they reached the end of their excursion, that's not what the OP stated was happening.

You can have a 4 inch driver with very long excursion, it depends on voice coil and surround.

AJ, you can take the last word, I'm done wasting my time with you. Hopefully the OP will experiment and draw his own conclusions.
 
Rated Output Power (1kHz, 1ch driven)
100W (6ohms, 0.9% THD)

Dynamic Power per Channel (8/6/4/2 ohms)
-/105/130/150W

I can only assume "dynamic" = peak, and not, RMS.
No need to assume, it does mean dynamic...or peak...if you have knowledge of reading such.

This means the receiver can maybe do the 50 watts I originally pstated way back.
Wrong.
https://www.soundandvision.com/content/yamaha-rx-v371-av-receiver-ht-labs-measures
output with two channels driving 8-ohm loads, reaches 0.1% distortion at 81.9 watts and 1% distortion at 95.3 watts. Into 4 ohms, the amplifier reaches 0.1% distortion at 100.6 watts and 1% distortion at 121.1 watts.
Their figures come from measuring, yours from wishful thinking, or maybe a hat.

You can have a 4 inch driver with very long excursion, it depends on voice coil and surround.
And that excursion capability will be tied to sensitivity, more excursion, less sensitivity. The size of the baffle/enclosure also plays a role. The other link showed the roll off, aka zero bass below 90hz...as dictated by physics.
Why audiophiles choose to vociferously argue from ignorance will remain a mystery, albeit an often very funny one.;)
 
Ok, so taking AJ's advice, I did a test with four records:

- Layla, Derek and the Dominos
- Ride the Lightning (Remastered), Metallica
- Book of Bad Decisions, Clutch
- Sunday at the Village Vanguard, Bill Evans

I started with the crossover set at 110, then 120, then 160 which is where it sounded best (the was no increment between 120 and 160). The results were like night and day. Warm, distinct, sounded better at a slightly louder volume. I found that I actually increased the level on my sub by about 3x. Where previously, bumping the sub up any more than about a qtr of the way resulted in just super heavy indistinct lows. Now with it up to about half way, the bass sounds amazing - heavy and thick, but separate in the mix. Literally, the bass lines in the songs sound better. In certain cases, the highs got a little muddy at higher volume - like on Clutch's latest - but Ride the Lightning and, specifically, Key to the Highway on Layla were awesome. The sweet spot for the volume was between 35 - 25 db whereas previously that's where it started to turn to mush. It actually sounded much better with the higher volume as opposed to softer. Since it's not an everyday thing, I'm not too concerned, but it would be great to listen at even higher levels (I'm thinking metal/punk - High on Fire, The Bronx, etc.) with that same sound quality. Over 25db though, it seemed to once again get sketchy although nowhere near as bad as before.

So, clearly the crossover made a huge difference, but can the case also be made for more power?

Thanks to everyone for the input. This was incredibly helpful - really really appreciate it.
 
So, clearly the crossover made a huge difference, but can the case also be made for more power?
Hi Casey, first, glad you are enjoying some sound improvement with nothing spent but time!
To answer your question, no, unfortunately, adding power will not help...and don't get me wrong, I'm not shy about power, making 97db speakers with 2.5kW of amplification! By raising the XO, you've actually made life easier on the Yamaha, the >80w rms, 130+ peak is more than plenty for those tiny B&Ws. No way the amp should be anywhere near straining before the speakers start exhibit non-linearities simply due to their small size. I'll give you the example of the larger, more expensive but same sized "woofer" PSB Imagine Mini.
https://www.soundstagehifi.com/index.php/equipment-reviews/368-psb-imagine-mini-loudspeakers
https://www.soundstagenetwork.com/i...s&catid=77:loudspeaker-measurements&Itemid=18
attachment.php


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I know some of this technical stuff will make an audiophiles head spin, but let's give it a whirl. :D
The first graph is deliberately band limited >50hz as not to destroy the little speaker. With a rather modest 4-8w of input power and 90db output, there is already considerable amount of distortion (1st graph) and compression (2nd graph) in the range that the woofer is playing. Adding more power won't help...it will only make matters worse.
I have to know these things as a loudspeaker manufacturer. It's absolutely critical for what I do to understand amplification and transduction. If you are going to upgrade anything, make your satellites a bit larger, at least in the size of their midbasses.

cheers,

AJ
 

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Casey

Unless you serious room constraint issues that require a speaker that small you can get into a reasonable quality bookshelf speaker with at least a 6.5" driver for not much more than $100 a pair on the used market.
 
Ok, so taking AJ's advice, I did a test with four records:

- Layla, Derek and the Dominos
- Ride the Lightning (Remastered), Metallica
- Book of Bad Decisions, Clutch
- Sunday at the Village Vanguard, Bill Evans

I started with the crossover set at 110, then 120, then 160 which is where it sounded best (the was no increment between 120 and 160). The results were like night and day. Warm, distinct, sounded better at a slightly louder volume. I found that I actually increased the level on my sub by about 3x. Where previously, bumping the sub up any more than about a qtr of the way resulted in just super heavy indistinct lows. Now with it up to about half way, the bass sounds amazing - heavy and thick, but separate in the mix. Literally, the bass lines in the songs sound better. In certain cases, the highs got a little muddy at higher volume - like on Clutch's latest - but Ride the Lightning and, specifically, Key to the Highway on Layla were awesome. The sweet spot for the volume was between 35 - 25 db whereas previously that's where it started to turn to mush. It actually sounded much better with the higher volume as opposed to softer. Since it's not an everyday thing, I'm not too concerned, but it would be great to listen at even higher levels (I'm thinking metal/punk - High on Fire, The Bronx, etc.) with that same sound quality. Over 25db though, it seemed to once again get sketchy although nowhere near as bad as before.

So, clearly the crossover made a huge difference, but can the case also be made for more power?

Thanks to everyone for the input. This was incredibly helpful - really really appreciate it.

Transferring the bass below 160 to the sub pretty much made the M1 3.9 driver a midrange. You stated the highs became muddy, a larger woofer won't help that. AJ continues to misstate your receiver's power. With only two channels you will get short bursts of 89.1 watts, with a continuous power of somewhere in the middle. That rating is if you were only listening to a 1kHz tone. Let's say your music was 50Hz to 15kHz, that's still quite a bit more bandwidth to produce than a 1kHz test tone. It also takes more power to produce that extra bandwidth.

Your speakers are 85dB efficient which takes a lot of power to play Metallica loud. A speaker at just 88dB can play roughly twice as loud with the same input signal. So I have no doubt the noise in the tweeters is your amp clipping.

To get what you really want it will take upgrading both speakers and amp, possibly. If you want to keep the receiver you need a more efficient speaker. And, a larger woofer will move more air and should go deeper in the bass region. But to get loud you need efficient speakers and ample clean power. Take a look at any Pro speaker, like for concerts, they are over 100dB. That's because you need efficiency to play loud. They don't use 85dB speakers. I had 85dB speakers and drove them with 250 clean power. Look at Avante Garde that Mike sells, 100+ because they have to be super efficient to be driven by small power tube amps of only a few watts. So if wanting to play loud with the power you have available and remain clean, you need more efficient speakers. My speakers are 94dB and I still drive them with 300 watts clean into 8 ohms. Music is dynamic, your power has to be clean and have reserve when called upon. Stuff like Metallica is calling on those reserves constantly.

I saw B&W has a new 6 series but I haven't seen specs or price yet. For what you're talking I'd suggest looking for a Klipsch. They are typically 95dB or higher. This would allow you to keep the receiver until you are able to upgrade it as well, if desired.

My answers to you were based on what you have now. I do prefer larger woofers if given the choice. For one, I don't prefer a sub with music.

I'm glad Bill Evans is on your list. Usually Rock music has had compression added somewhere along the way. And, the music contains distortion. So this type of music isn't going to sound as good as a decent Jazz recording no matter what system you have.

I just recently heard that Clutch album and thought it was good. I've got a couple of their earlier albums, one of them has Electric Worry. Have you heard Metallica, Hardwired to Self Destruct? Probably one of the best since Ride The Lightning IMO. I'm not a fan of the "black" album and I am one who likes In Justice.

A couple Rock albums that struck me as being better than average sound quality was the Three Days Grace album that contains Chalk Outline. My disc sounds good, however, streaming versions I've heard, not so good. And, a new release Our Mirage, Lifeline.
 
With only two channels you will get short bursts of 89.1 watts, with a continuous power of somewhere in the middle. That rating is if you were only listening to a 1kHz tone. Let's say your music was 50Hz to 15kHz, that's still quite a bit more bandwidth to produce than a 1kHz test tone. It also takes more power to produce that extra bandwidth.

Your speakers are 85dB efficient

So I have no doubt the noise in the tweeters is your amp clipping.
Wrong

Wrong

Wrong

Once again, your "data"/"facts" derived from a hat or possibly of anatomical origin. It's an audiophile thing I guess.:P
 
Casey

Unless you serious room constraint issues that require a speaker that small you can get into a reasonable quality bookshelf speaker with at least a 6.5" driver for not much more than $100 a pair on the used market.

Originally, I didn't look at the specs for those speakers. They are quite small and I would never expect them to reproduce Rock or Metal very well at anything above modest levels. Changed my mind, I would def upgrade those speakers. There are quite a few good bookshelf options now by Pioneer, ELAC, PSB, etc. that are not silly expensive. I put a pair of those cheap Daytons in my wife's office system and they really don't sound too bad, at least to her ears :)

Good luck and happy listening!
D
 
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I also did not realize how small the speaker is. I would never use a speaker, bookshelf or otherwise with below a 6.5" driver. On the other hand it really depends on your use and preferences. I have always preferred the sound of speakers that tend to be more inefficient... European designs such as KEF, B&W, MBL, MC, etc., which tend to be less efficient. My current speakers are 89dB which is higher then the KEFs I used to use back in the day. Also had a pair of MCs which were 85dB, bookshelf/stand mounted speakers which had 6.5" woofers. They are from the gentleman who originally founded MBL, out of Berlin.

While I have had amplifiers that were rated at 250-300 WPC (PS Audio, SST, etc.) I have found that most of the amps that I enjoy the sound of and that I can afford are more in the 75-125 WPC range. These amps, for my use produce all of the power that I could ever use and can be very dynamic, even with my 89dB speakers... for example Quicksilver, the Goldmund Job 225 amplifier is an amazing value and very dynamic. The T+A amplifier that I current use is physically small, and rated at only 80 WPC, but it is extremely dynamic and fast and has the largest Frequency Bandwidth of any amplifier I have ever seen (1-200,000 kHz).

This is the point I am making (and I am sure that some will dispute), but quality versus quantity. I have used a First Watt amplifier that is rated at 25 WPC which was one of the best sounding amplifiers I have ever heard. And most of the time I would not be pushing the amp at all.... unless I was trying to rattle the walls. I may very well have keep that amplifier except that I prefer balanced XLR inputs which most FW amps and the Job do not offer, for example.

So a slightly larger speaker; B&W, KEF, Elac, for example.... and a better amplifier, would probably do the trick. The ultra efficient speakers, Klipsch, etc., are not my preference. Some love them, but I have never been a fan of horn loaded speakers (I know there are some that are different now) because the ones I have heard always seemed like they were screaming at me.... pretty much the opposite of my preference.
 
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