Jack in Wilmington
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And?
Jack.......Do you think you might give the Symposium Fat Padz a try under your solid maple block?
Since I have an open order with The Cable Co. for some Herbies gear, I figured I would just add some Big Fat Dots to the order.
I have been using Herbie’s grunge buster dots between a Billy Bags rack and the 3” thick maple platform for my TT. I have experimented with having them in place vs having the block directly on the rack’s top shelf. I perceive greater clarity with them present. Awaiting on my new Adona rack to arrive and will then have to do the evaluations all again...
Here's an idea. I'm a pretty heavy tweaker so I have taken a rega rp6 and bastardized the whole thing into a new table. What worked very effective for me was taking materials such as Corian and acrylic and separating them with druzy stones. I do have some cat eye in the mix also. It would not hurt to take a sheet of acrylic and a sheet of Corian clamp them together and drill a small hole through both plates. Do this in all four corners. Then remove the clamps and dimple the inside holes with a larger bit. Put four very small druzy beads in the dimples and drop the Top plate on the bottom plate. I find the mix of Corian which is slightly bright and acrylic which is pretty darn neutral if not slightly dull to equal a very Lively and clear sound. Rapping on my bottom sheet to my top plinth plate reveals there is pretty decent isolation. Just something you can try for very little money. All you need is a cabinet shop to cut you a piece of Corian and Tap Plastic to cut you the acrylic.![]()
Jack
Just a suggestion, put some sort of isolation pad between the butcher block and the glass. Something like these are cheap and simple plus the same as the ones Mapleshade sells for ten times the price.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-PACK-ANT...894196?hash=item56b0b5d5b4:g:808AAOxyrrpThNvH
The also come with cork as the middle layer. I am using Herbies Fat Dots but these will work fine either type.
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