Electrical Foundation Revisit

UltraFast69

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Audio:

I wrote earlier about grounding results that were positive, however, turns out they were masking an underlying issue that needed to be addressed.

We previously added grounding rods to the sub panel, this was met with forum controversy, however, they were bonded between panels, and there was a significant improvement in the system sound. What we did not realize at the time was the grounding rods in the sub panel “A” became the primary grounds rods for the home, hence the improvement.

Somewhere along the way we believe various yard improvements, or shifting of earth due to rain or tree growth had dislodged the acorn(s) holding the copper cable to either one or both original rods supporting the main panel. OHM readings were all over the board, ranging between 80-300, not good.

So instead of digging up earth to find the original rods to the main panel and tye things back together, we went ahead called 811 to mark the property, then drove two 3/4” diameter (standard is 5/8”) copper ground rods down 9’4” (standard is 8’) into earth, separated by 18’ then strung 2 AWG (standard 6 AWG) copper to the main panel secured at the rods through a fusion process called CadWeld (common is an Acorn ring, bolt tight connection).

See the YouTube Link:

https://youtu.be/_zGu_Dh6qOk

Once the main was hooked up and tested we seen 60-70 Ohms, still very high, then unhooked the grounding rods from the sub panel “A” and went back to meter measure at the rods and on the main panel, the OHM results dropped just above ZERO, reducing down to .03 - .08.

Now with the home back in order, now it was time to hear the results.

On the first day beginning with the reference system, there was a substantial reduction to an already low noise floor leading to more clarity and openness. Timbre of voice and instrument was more prevalent in the mid range and better definition on the low end with good clean tight bass.

The second day there was a slight ebb in sound from the first day but still overall at a higher starting point, and can only attribute the cable was settling, plus everything now was seeing the new ground and finding its way there.

I watched TV Wednesday and Thursday night - both days video was sharp as a tack and sound from AV gear was louder, cleaner and tighter.

When I got back to the audio, the results of this job is a system where I could easily fool myself saying there is a new component upgrade in service.

Regrounding the main panel and removing the sub panel “A” grounds drastically made listening improvements.

Just a few months prior we put in a second sub-panel, “B”. This replaced the sub panel “A” and now exclusively dedicated to Audio with branch circuits only for receptacles, no lights - it too was a significant game changer as the runs were now all Copper versus Aluminum in the previous sub panel.

Power only for Audio from Sub Panel adjacent to the music room:

5ac5f1b1f2e50b014e7702654b1afd7c.jpg


Here is a flow path of the Electric Foundation Path from earth:

2 - 3/4” Copper rods buried 9’4” connected with 2 AWG Copper, CadWelded > Main Panel > From Main Panel Branch Circuit, 4 AWG Copper > Square D Sub Panel with Environmental Potential EP2050 > Sub Panel branch circuits using Furutech FP S55N 10 AWG cable (4) > Furutech GTX G receptacles, wall plates and covers connected by spade to support 1) Amps, 2) Digital, 3) Phono and Pre, 4) ADD POWR Wizard 1M off panel.

This may sound like a large and expensive project, it’s not. IMO it’s worth it to have your power reviewed for good measure and performance.

It is evidently clear to me you can harvest more from a system by ensuring the electrical foundation is solid and robust. Why? You are listening to electricity.

Long live audio, be safe, and don’t do anything without a registered expert providing support and service when it comes to electrical.

Adding to panels and safety, I was recently made aware of proper tightening in the panels using a torque wrench, I found what I think is a good article on this.

https://iaeimagazine.org/magazine/2...ing-electrical-connections-for-proper-torque/



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Audio:

I wrote earlier about grounding results that were positive, however, turns out they were masking an underlying issue that needed to be addressed.

We previously added grounding rods to the sub panel, this was met with forum controversy, however, they were bonded between panels, and there was a significant improvement in the system sound. What we did not realize at the time was the grounding rods in the sub panel “A” became the primary grounds rods for the home, hence the improvement.

Somewhere along the way we believe various yard improvements, or shifting of earth due to rain or tree growth had dislodged the acorn(s) holding the copper cable to either one or both original rods supporting the main panel. OHM readings were all over the board, ranging between 80-300, not good.

So instead of digging up earth to find the original rods to the main panel and tye things back together, we went ahead called 811 to mark the property, then drove two 3/4” diameter (standard is 5/8”) copper ground rods down 9’4” (standard is 8’) into earth, separated by 18’ then strung 2 AWG (standard 6 AWG) copper to the main panel secured at the rods through a fusion process called CadWeld (common is an Acorn ring, bolt tight connection).

See the YouTube Link:

https://youtu.be/_zGu_Dh6qOk

Once the main was hooked up and tested we seen 60-70 Ohms, still very high, then unhooked the grounding rods from the sub panel “A” and went back to meter measure at the rods and on the main panel, the OHM results dropped just above ZERO, reducing down to .03 - .08.

Now with the home back in order, now it was time to hear the results.

On the first day beginning with the reference system, there was a substantial reduction to an already low noise floor leading to more clarity and openness. Timbre of voice and instrument was more prevalent in the mid range and better definition on the low end with good clean tight bass.

The second day there was a slight ebb in sound from the first day but still overall at a higher starting point, and can only attribute the cable was settling, plus everything now was seeing the new ground and finding its way there.

I watched TV Wednesday and Thursday night - both days video was sharp as a tack and sound from AV gear was louder, cleaner and tighter.

When I got back to the audio, the results of this job is a system where I could easily fool myself saying there is a new component upgrade in service.

Regrounding the main panel and removing the sub panel “A” grounds drastically made listening improvements.

Just a few months prior we put in a second sub-panel, “B”. This replaced the sub panel “A” and now exclusively dedicated to Audio with branch circuits only for receptacles, no lights - it too was a significant game changer as the runs were now all Copper versus Aluminum in the previous sub panel.

Power only for Audio from Sub Panel adjacent to the music room:

5ac5f1b1f2e50b014e7702654b1afd7c.jpg


Here is a flow path of the Electric Foundation Path from earth:

2 - 3/4” Copper rods buried 9’4” connected with 2 AWG Copper, CadWelded > Main Panel > From Main Panel Branch Circuit, 4 AWG Copper > Square D Sub Panel with Environmental Potential EP2050 > Sub Panel branch circuits using Furutech FP S55N 10 AWG cable (4) > Furutech GTX G receptacles, wall plates and covers connected by spade to support 1) Amps, 2) Digital, 3) Phono and Pre, 4) ADD POWR Wizard 1M off panel.

This may sound like a large and expensive project, it’s not. IMO it’s worth it to have your power reviewed for good measure and performance.

It is evidently clear to me you can harvest more from a system by ensuring the electrical foundation is solid and robust. Why? You are listening to electricity.

Long live audio, be safe, and don’t do anything without a registered expert providing support and service when it comes to electrical.

Adding to panels and safety, I was recently made aware of proper tightening in the panels using a torque wrench, I found what I think is a good article on this.

https://iaeimagazine.org/magazine/2...ing-electrical-connections-for-proper-torque/



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

So who should be doing the torquing?
 
Does the NEC require that all connections inside of power panels be torqued?

I believe you know the answer to this.

I see no harm in reading the article, deciding if this is something your interested in, and if so, go about it in a safe manner.

Be safe and enjoy the music MEP.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
I believe you know the answer to this.

I see no harm in reading the article, deciding if this is something your interested in, and if so, go about it in a safe manner.

Be safe and enjoy the music MEP.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I read the article and it's not authoritative. It's a think piece that represents the author's opinions.
 
Torque values are available for all lugs and breakers in electrical panels. The code says you "shall" install per the manufacturer's specifications. Hence, you shall torque.
 
Yes, its in the NEC. I have the 2017 version so that's what I'm referencing here.

2017 National Electric Code NFPA 70 Section 110.14(D). “Where a tightening torque is indicated as a numeric value on equipment or in installation instructions provided by the manufacturer, a calibrated torque tool shall be used to achieve the indicated torque value, unless the equipment manufacturer has provided installation instructions for an alternative method of achieving the required torque.”

This is not my opinion or somebody's else's internet forum bullshit - its a critical piece of installing and maintaining a safe electrical distribution system in your home.

The picture below is from the panel in our Wisconsin house. The feeder on the right has failed due to an insufficiently torqued connection, which in turn created a high resistance connection that heated enough to distort the connector and damage the wire. After this incident, I check torque on everything once a year.

panel feeder failure.JPG
 
To be repetitive:
The ground rod system is for safety during high voltage events like thunderstorms a power company high voltage power line accidents. It's also to keep the Neutral line potential near the swimming pool potential.
But old city all metal water pipe systems work in a different way, causing much of this conclusion starting a century ago.
So the ground rod system does not have any impact on day-to-day AC power quality.
 
To be repetitive:

So the ground rod system does not have any impact on day-to-day AC power quality.

I don't agree. Your correct on its main purpose. But I believe a poor ground can be heard. I believe you will see voltage swings if its not installed. Not installed is the same to me as old and degraded with hundreds of ohms of resistance to earth.
 
I have seen failed CB burned out as such in the field. I hate aluminum wire. Even after torquing it can loosen over time. Especially under heat and load. I always re-torque the mains on any panel I touch that has aluminum mains. I also go through every CB, neutral and ground screw in any panel I touch. I always find a couple that are loose.
 
I have seen failed CB burned out as such in the field. I hate aluminum wire. Even after torquing it can loosen over time. Especially under heat and load. I always re-torque the mains on any panel I touch that has aluminum mains. I also go through every CB, neutral and ground screw in any panel I touch. I always find a couple that are loose.

After my mains panel failure I have become much more vigilant about checking everything yearly. Like you, I do find loose branch wiring occasionally.
 
Torque values are available for all lugs and breakers in electrical panels. The code says you "shall" install per the manufacturer's specifications. Hence, you shall torque.

Except you don't follow this practice:

I torque my mains and meter sockets. We torque and draw a line across every torqued lug on commercial jobs.

I dont torque my small circuit breakers any more. I have landed enough branch circuits to know what is correct. But hey, I have landed thousands of breakers. And, I have stripped out the threads not using a torque wrench.
 
I don't agree. Your correct on its main purpose. But I believe a poor ground can be heard. I believe you will see voltage swings if its not installed. Not installed is the same to me as old and degraded with hundreds of ohms of resistance to earth.

KingRex, I agree with the disagree, a good ground is clearly evident in sound and the opposite holds true.

Those voltage swings were very apparent after the fact, and while there are ways to mask over this, in the end, it’s a bandaid when you go back through things and find an issue as I did.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
The power company often uses aluminum wire to our homes. But and it's a big but, they use special connectors, special tools and training. And the aluminum wire that they now use is very different from the aluminum wire in home a half century ago.
 
Does the NEC require that all connections inside of power panels be torqued?
from the other thread:
As to tightening torque for connectors and terminals. NEC Article 110.14(D) is about torque, some products have a recommended value or range while others have a proscribed value or range. But I would guess with most residential electricians, if you hide their torque wrench they might not notice it for a month.
and
Just noticed the NEC Article 110.14(D) was first added in NEC2017. There was no such torque rule before then.
 
I don't agree. Your correct on its main purpose. But I believe a poor ground can be heard. I believe you will see voltage swings if its not installed. Not installed is the same to me as old and degraded with hundreds of ohms of resistance to earth.

Lots of “I believe” in your post.
 
Lots of “I believe” in your post.

"I Believe" because I have never done true blind test or critical listening test before and after grounding. I have not connected and disconnected grounds during playback to test how audible a good ground is. And, its hard for me to sit in front of an unknown, or shall I say, not my system and really hear what the changes due to modifications to the power supply really do. I have to rely on the owners perspective to know the impact.

I have put a Fluke meter inside a few panels specifically measuring for micro voltage difference based upon the grounding, bonding torquing etc. I have seen voltages stabilize and micro voltage between grounds and neutral significantly reduced by introducing proper grounding. I have reduced almost a half volt of differential between the neutral on one side of the buss and the other by lacing the neutrals together with #4 copper.

But I have to admit, for me, I have not truly validated the reduction of voltage swings and voltage differentials is audible. Even in Eds system. Is it the voltage that is stabilized causing the heat from his amps to drop by 5 or so degrees. Is the humming when standing in front of his speakers reduced from heard 8 feet away to barely audible with your ear to it the grounding? Or, Is it the ancillary gear from Addpower, Environmental Potential, Nordost etc that are now able to do there job the way they were intended. I don't really know. Every one of our stereo and the environments they are in is individual. The results of optimizing your audio power supply will probably differ from system to system. I still see nothing wrong with making sure you electrical distribution is the best it can be. I don't think a fancy power cord is going to repair other issues ahead of it. And lord knows we spend an awful lot of money on power cords.
 
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