JL subs

Big B

Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2013
Messages
815
Location
Ontario Canada
I have 2 F113. both have had their caps dry out after warranty. This costs me $1000/sub and easy 2 months without my sub. What cheap quality parts. This was a $5000 sub.
 
That’s totally unacceptable. Never been a fan. They aren’t even musical. I like the Magico subs, REL, B&W and SVS for best bang for the buck.

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Magico subs was not one I thought of. Chevees warm up the hounds I'm on the hunt. Thank you
Rel was definitely the fall back.
That’s totally unacceptable. Never been a fan. They aren’t even musical. I like the Magico subs, REL, B&W and SVS for best bang for the buck.

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I have 2 F113. both have had their caps dry out after warranty. This costs me $1000/sub and easy 2 months without my sub. What cheap quality parts. This was a $5000 sub.

Yes, this is something that JL has been criticized about in the past, and with good reason!
I had caps replaced in a F113. The repair was covered under warranty but it was a hassle anyway.
After my experience, I learned that many folks have had a similar experience with their JL subs. I recall seeing a post from an owner with step-by-step instructions on how to identify the damaged caps, where to buy them (including brand/model), and how to replace them yourself. If this were to happen again to you and you feel comfortable with a soldering gun (or have a friend who does), you should do a Google search and you should find it.
 
Yes, this is something that JL has been criticized about in the past, and with good reason!
I had caps replaced in a F113. The repair was covered under warranty but it was a hassle anyway.
After my experience, I learned that many folks have had a similar experience with their JL subs. I recall seeing a post from an owner with step-by-step instructions on how to identify the damaged caps, where to buy them (including brand/model), and how to replace them yourself. If this were to happen again to you and you feel comfortable with a soldering gun (or have a friend who does), you should do a Google search and you should find it.

I hope he recommended better caps than JL used.
 
My friend bought a group of 6 used JL subs, come to find out that model had a known issue, If one went out they would fix it under warranty but knowing the subs had the issue they wouldn't go ahead and fix them all, my friend had to wait to let them fail and naturally not all failed under warranty, so he occurred some significant costs in this situation.

I personally thought the subs sounded great when working but I'd never buy one knowing how they treat customers and apparent QC issues.

People really seem to push REL for them but I've never heard one that did much.I know you aren't supposed to tell there is a sub when the music is playing but often there's little to no difference whether the sub is on or off.
 
I have 2 F113. both have had their caps dry out after warranty. This costs me $1000/sub and easy 2 months without my sub. What cheap quality parts. This was a $5000 sub.

A few years ago JL was supposedly the cat's meow but since then, I've heard nothing but controversial things. I've got a pair of Rhythmik E15's ($1300 ea.) and thoroughly enjoy them - once dialed in of course. I bought the first E15 in 2015 and last summer purchased a 2nd E15. I had seriously considered moving to a pair of Rhythmik's 18" subs but still quite satisfied with the E15's.





Here are a few examples of the E15's potential.
 
Sleeper subs for me are B&W DB1D’s. The built in DSP and their awesome app makes them super easy to blend seamlessly with the rest of the system and the room and so easy to use. They are super musical, but not BOOM BOOM, POW POW for movies. These are MUSICAL, super musical subs.

I have four in my system at home.


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Sleeper subs for me are B&W DB1D’s. The built in DSP and their awesome app makes them super easy to blend seamlessly with the rest of the system and the room and so easy to use. They are super musical, but not BOOM BOOM, POW POW for movies. These are MUSICAL, super musical subs.

I have four in my system at home.


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They look awesome. Are they sealed or ported?
 
I had a pair of JL Audio f113 subs in the past and never could get them to integrate very well despite trying several different digital and analog crossovers. For some reason my pair of SVS PC4000 subs were way easier to incorporate just using the onboard crossover and sound much better to me. There are multiple user adjustments accessible via the SVS iphone bluetooth app.
 
I had a pair of JL Audio f113 subs in the past and never could get them to integrate very well despite trying several different digital and analog crossovers. For some reason my pair of SVS PC4000 subs were way easier to incorporate just using the onboard crossover and sound much better to me. There are multiple user adjustments accessible via the SVS iphone bluetooth app.

I can attest! They sound fantastic!


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My dac is directly connected to the integrated amp which doesn't have a pre-out connection. The SVS subs doesn't have a high level input. Is there an easier way to integrate the subs with system that doesn't have a pre-out ?
 
I have two of the 212's. They sound great in the huge room I have them in. I think the 12's sound better than the 13's.

I'm going to be selling the 212s as soon as I get back to my house in MN (after I go to the masters). Downsizing to an empty nest size house, and won't have room for everything.

If anyone is interested, shoot me a message.


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my room is 17x23 those gothams would bloat my room. As far 112 vs 113 I don't know I have had these for quite some time. I most likely tested the 112 but I don't remember anymore. I went with bigger is better. I'm on the hunt for new subs.
 
I heard this one too many times. If it' good for 2 channel it will be fantastic for home theatre. BUNK and double BUNK.
Home theatre I'm looking for good LFE. While the music score is great and I want to hear it. I want to equally hear those explosions and gun shots. I'm not interested in where what instrument is where but I do want hear if one thing is happening on one side of the room. I want my Atmos to scare me when something takes place behind my shoulder right or left. I want to feel that LFE when subs kick in.
 
I have 2 JL Audio Fathom 113v2 subs. One for five years, one for two years. Never had an issue with either one. Combined with the JL Audio CR-1 crossover, I have no issue integrating them. Perhaps I am lucky but I think it’s worth remember we usually only hear from those with problems.

Lots of great choices out there. I don’t hesitate to recommend the Fathoms.
 
I only use my SVS for home theater and you physically feel the LFE when called upon. I only use one, it has no problem pressurizing my room. I use th Marantz auto set up, I like LFE but properly in its place. You know what I mean, a true flat response where too many set ups I've heard tend to over drive the subs, you shouldn't hear a sub when a car door closes or a gun fires. In fact, I set my sub gain about 9 o'clock to provide plenty of headroom, preferring to feed it a higher gain if that's what the set up calls for.

I heard this one too many times. If it' good for 2 channel it will be fantastic for home theatre. BUNK and double BUNK.
Home theatre I'm looking for good LFE. While the music score is great and I want to hear it. I want to equally hear those explosions and gun shots. I'm not interested in where what instrument is where but I do want hear if one thing is happening on one side of the room. I want my Atmos to scare me when something takes place behind my shoulder right or left. I want to feel that LFE when subs kick in.
 
I now own 4 JL F-113 subs. One is the V2. Bought them used over time.
I had the 3 fixed and JL only charged me $300-$450 including return shipping. Yes, I think the caps in the version 1 were weak and updated in the version2.

ozzy
 
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