Thread: My DIY speakers -"J&N"

The idea of hand-made/ DIY / loudspeakers was born in me, when I saw the model of JBL-tI6K . The design and fabrication of these unique shapes are made by a Danish designer. The pyramidal shape of the speakers is generally denied by the DIYers, or at least for the most part, but I decided at the moment that's my loudspeaker design..
If there is interest in the topic, I will continue.

Very nice! Can you give us details on the drivers, crossovers and cabinet volume/design? How efficient are they and what kind of load are they?

Originally Posted by Randy Myers

Pretty cool looking speakers. Nice job!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Mikado463

Very nice, they look like cousins to the Joseph Audio design !

Thanks, Dave, but they are Jorors - Audio and they are not family connection-related.
Joro

Originally Posted by brad225

Fantastic job....

Thank you!

Originally Posted by brad225

Wish we could hear them.

Mission impossible, or very difficult!

Originally Posted by stereogeek

Very nice! Can you give us details on the drivers, crossovers and cabinet volume/design? How efficient are they and what kind of load are they?

I started working with them in 2009 and finished in 2012.
The loudspeakers are "SEAS"- Excel / Tw-1”, Mw-5”for center 2х 5.5”,Bass-8,5”/ and cross-over parts- "Intertechnik".

Nominal impedance- 8 Ohm. Range 30Hz-25kHz.Characterstic Sensitivity(2,83V/1m)- 87db.
Long Term-110W.

I'll show you, how was made the speakers are made, step by step.
Joro

P.S.
For those who are most impatient on Facebook; Jorors DIY-Audio, it is not a link, but a closed group.
Anyone who wants to become a member is welcome, but you have to make a request to me!

Thank you, George!
Thank you, Brian!

When everything is created by your hands, the pleasure is endless!
I wish everyone DIYer, to be able to experience such emotional moments!

Originally Posted by stereogeek

Very nice! Can you give us details on the drivers, crossovers and cabinet volume/design? How efficient are they and what kind of load are they?

Thanks!
I'll show you, how I made these speakers, supported with photos and with detailed information as possible. This project is a long time ago and some of the stages during their construction , I can not show them - I do not have the necessary material, but what is available, I suppose will be enough to provoke your interest.
At first, I had to figure out how to bend MDF plates. In the internet now has a very detailed material on how this process is being carried out with complicated multi-operative press mashine, but 2009 this information was scarce and irrelevant to me because, its clear I can not make a similar device at home.
For this purpose, I made this "Home Matrix" for the center and front speakers;

afd;p

I have no opportunity to publish photos from my computer. The administrator told me that I can, but I can't, but the administrator told me that I can, but I can't ........
P.S.
I have registered in over 15 DIY Loudspeakers Forums worldwide and in these forums I have many published photos from my computer, why in this forum things do not work?

My initial idea was, for a bass speaker 6.5 ", but once I assembled the pilot model and measured the internal volume of the cabinet, found that I had enough reserve even for a 10" speaker. I decided at this stage to use 8.5 ".
This is the first option;

The final decision;
"SEAS" - Excel / Tw-1 ", Mw-5" for center 2x 5.5 ", Bass-8.5" / and cross-over parts- Intertechnik. Nominal impedance- 8 Ohm. Frequency Range 30Hz-20kHz.Characterstic Sensitivity (2.83V / 1m) - 87db Long Term-110W.

The veneer I use in Bulgaria is known as "Birds of Maple", in the world is also known as "Bird's eye" . We reach the moment of very specific activity - veneering with natural veneer. When veneering panels, details is in one plane, there are no problems. There is only a requirement - the person who collects the individual pieces has good skills, the rest is completed by the pneumatic press.
When we talk about a complex shape, our immediate association is for "Vacuum press", but there is a limit to the thickness / height / of the workpiece. If we are talking about veneering of a flat surface with motifs on the surface - it does work, but if it is another massive form- don’t.
Due to the complexity of the process, i will pay close attention to it. My technique is complex, risky on a large scale and I definitely do not recommend it to enthusiasts with little experience! A natural veneer can bend tangentially or radially, usually masters prefer to work in just one direction - for less headaches. In my method of processing, I use both bending directions simultaneously, but add a third diagonal bending.
The other main problem is the adhesive with which it sticks the veneer, it is polychloroprene, this glue does not allow you to move the veneer, once touched to the base there is no other chance-stays there. If you try to move it, you will break the veneer at the moment, and when we talk about "Birds of Maple" with a price over 60 EUR, the feeling it's not pleasant!
I will explain my technique for cutting veneer before gluing it.
On the finished cabinet of the loudspeaker, from " India paper" / she is the closest with the veneer / I make the templates that should lie perfectly on the base. The problem is in the wrong shape, the veneer after gluing in one part, changes his shape, although everything has previously been matched perfectly. It requires a lot of attention, patience, and proper judgment, which part should squeeze, otherwise balloon spaces are created, which are very difficult to correct without being visible later. Sometimes, depending on the type of veneer, moistening helps, but this action also requires judgment with experience.

After veneering the next steps are, to make the desired color , and the following finish manipulation , spraying with high quality automobile acrylic lacquer. To obtain the desired gloss, after about the tenth layer, the surface after each new one subsequent layer (total about 20-25) is polished, the result is this end product;

When everything is created by your hands, the pleasure is endless!

nice looking, we build ours in house as well for our clients, i agree, very satisfying. what our your driving the seas with? how they sound?

Originally Posted by Porsche

nice looking,........ what our your driving the seas with? how they sound?

Thanks, Porsche!
It is possible with this graphic to get an idea of the sound;
OPPO 105D; HEGEL360; Denon AVC X8500HA

I will show you one of my projects I had to change it , basically right at the very beginning - Rear speakers -”J&N”sr.
We all know, what is the ideal shape for the speakers- sphere. For technological reasons, it is difficult to do, especially with three tape loudspeakers. I strive to make the second most effective form - the egg. To begin with, I schematically design this way.I calculate the approximate volume, how do I find the right volume, will show you later in my project .
The loudspeakers are "SEAS"- Excel T25CF002 ", W18EX001- 6,5" . Everything is handmade, no "CNC" machine is used.
First option;

Тhe internal structure of the cabinets;

A few elements from the front panel processing;

For the next stage / the shells of the cabinets / I made this "home matrix", with its help I bent 8 layers with 4 mm beech plywood;

Originally Posted by JayT

Very impressive build! They look gorgeous and I bet sound great.

Thanks, JayT !

Originally Posted by BobInWI

Have to congratulate the OP. His design & woodworking skills are considerable.
That is an exceptional build.

Thanks a lot, BobInWI !

Originally Posted by Mikado463

I've gotta say it again.......... Wow !!

My hats off and I bow before you, superb work !!

Thank you for your evaluation of my work, Mikado463!

I am approaching to the measurement of the internal volume. From waste material I made this gadget ,that takes part in the measurements and when assembling the cabinet;

- My method of finding an internal volume of a complex construction was discovered about 2500/ from the Archimedes genius/.
The volume per liter of water is equal to the volume of 1 kg. and 1l. Water = 1 kg,
-their specific resistances are the same, with very little error.
I will say it in a more understandable way:
- if we have 20 liters of water in a bucket, this bucket will weigh approximately -20 kg.
- if we have another liquid in this bucket, we may have 20 liters, but we will not have 20 kg.
In my method of measurement, i do not immerse the inner construction in the water, just I measure the weight and deduct it from the total volume.
There is no simpler and more accurate method for finding the volume of a complex body,
Archimedes method is flawless!
In my method of measurement, i do not immerse the inner construction in the water, just I measure the weight and deduct it from the total volume.
There is no simpler and more accurate method for finding the volume of a complex body,the method of Archimedes is flawless!
Any other material we use to fill, we need to know the "ro" of this material.
On the second picture, the red line is the waterline, the vas of cabinet must be fill with water next to it / everything must be perfectly horizontally!/.

In this photo the red line is the waterline, the vas of cabinet must be fill with water next to it / everything must be perfectly leveled/.

Let's assume that the density of MDF is 0.75 kg. of cubic decimeter/ average value by tables /. This is 75% of the actual reduced volume. The reduced volume error is: 3.5 / 0.75 = 4.6 liters actual reduced volume, and the whole volume is 43-4.6 = 38.4 liters. The total error of 39.6 liters is 1.2 liters or -3.1%.The ways to reduce the insaid of volume, are incomparably easier than the increase, the point is that this is the desired vision and the compensation must be done inside the volume. At this volume, I can safely mount another W18EX001, i. we are talking about a 2, 1/2 tape loudspeaker and that sends the project into an initial phase.
The old project stayed in the past ...
The new one project;

interesting, thanks for sharing

The pleasure is incomparable, when everything is created by your hands!
Christmas mood;

After preprocessing of the internal ribbing I can now start collecting the cabinets;
Now I can make the exact measurement of the volume.
And that's 31.5l, just as much as I need! Further processing of the internal ribs follows;

Housing assembly;

Oh, i forgot to show you what I make for the filter compartment!

After the measurements, this is are Technical data:
2½- way surround loudspeakers,
Frequence Range; 33-25000 Hz
Long term Max Power; 200 W
Crossover Frequency; 2800 Hz
Impedance; 4 Ohms
Sensitivity; 90 db SPL
Cabinet Volume; 31l
Gross weight / without stand /; 27kg.
This is the project of the rear speakers, will finish it with "Bird's eye view".

Originally Posted by Porsche

how do you like the seas, i am considering a design using there drivers

I know in detail the production of SEAS, these are very good drivers that allow the construction of projects with loudspeakers above the HI-FI mid-range. I have measured over 40 from the same products, there is no difference in their technical characteristics - fact!
P.S.
My last purchase of SEAS speakers was about six years ago, in a Bulgarian "DIY-Audio" forum, at this point in time, a very competent member of the forum shared that the Norwegians have started to compromise on quality, keep it in mind please!

Originally Posted by Porsche

oh, really, thats interesting. thanks

You are welcome, during this time there is a change in the design of the labels that stick on the magnet on of drivers, always such changes made for me suspicious!

Originally Posted by a.wayne

Sad to hear as SEA’s used to be really good stuff ..!

It was hard for me to take it in too, but my source is very, very into things, I can send you his personal blog if you want.