Lampizator Golden Gate

[LampizatOr]

Hello Lukasz,

it is very cool to have you here. You have demonstrated some incredible ingenuity in your gear. If you have the time I would love to clarify something as well.

So if I read the above post correctly, the only difference is the regular 6db gain and from balanced and some internal common mode noise cancellation. Would it be a reasonable supposition that the stiffer powers supply you reference could be attained through a different isolation scheme in the single-ended dac since the only difference is coming from noise cancellations? Alternatively, I normally think of stiffening my PS by using different rectifiers; do you think it is possible to get to the same spot with the single-ended as the fully balanced by taking that route or is the difference to great?

Hello,
the cancellation is not about "noises" but about consumption fluctuations. There is one common point where two opposite phases suck energy from. The suck varies according to the music but in opposite phase. So if one phase demands 20% MORE, at the same moment the other phase demands 20% less, hence the supply point remains fixed. Does not need to supply any more during that passage. That's the cool element in it.

[FlexibleAudio]

Hello,
the cancellation is not about "noises" but about consumption fluctuations. There is one common point where two opposite phases suck energy from. The suck varies according to the music but in opposite phase. So if one phase demands 20% MORE, at the same moment the other phase demands 20% less, hence the supply point remains fixed. Does not need to supply any more during that passage. That's the cool element in it.

Ahh so the reduced fluctuation helps offset the lack of stiffness that might be present in a tube rectified power supply as opposed to say a solid state??? That would make a great deal of sense to me.

[FlexibleAudio]

Another quick explanation:

In any of our designs we never invert phase or flip phase or duplicate phase in any way, neither by opamps, not transformers or tube inverters. We always just use readily available digital mirror phase and its natural output from DAC conversion. It will run 4 signals as SET amplification through the DAC and through the amp and the two phases meet and mix inside speaker driver coils. That's the true beauty of balanced.
Lukasz

Another quick one if you don't mind......

I totally get not needing to split from inception because you use the natural balanced digital mirror at the front and then go through the chain to the output of the amp, but I must admit, not having some kind of a combining circuitry (balun) at the end of the chain (amp out) makes my head hurt just thinking about it........

If I get this right, you are not using an earth ground in one of the wires to the speaker? Rather you are running equal but opposite electrical potential to earth ground on the two speaker wires and using them like a regular balanced cable?

[wisnon]

I will let Lukasz respond as the creator (I am no amp guru) but I think the answer to your question is YES, however there is no need to reference to ground on the speakers terminals (floating).

[LampizatOr]

Hi,
yes, the speaker line is isolated by the transformer, therefore it is floating, with symertical balanced signals on pos and neg wires respectively. The speakers don't have and don't need ground. The voltage there is circa 2-3 VDC only 1,5 - 2 or max 3 V against ground reference and the speakers are passive anyway.

[FlexibleAudio]

Hi,
yes, the speaker line is isolated by the transformer, therefore it is floating, with symertical balanced signals on pos and neg wires respectively. The speakers don't have and don't need ground. The voltage there is circa 2-3 VDC only 1,5 - 2 or max 3 V against ground reference and the speakers are passive anyway.

Thanks Lukasz...very interesting....no ground. What initially comes to mind is electrical codes, but I take your point about modest voltage. Still wouldn't 85 watts shorted be enough amps to get some ones attention? I think it is an exceptionally eloquent approach to avoiding the balun in the signal path; I am just trying to understand why I don't think I recall ever seeing it done. (Probably because my experience is not that great.) You are one creative dude. Any one ever raise speaker warranty issues?

[LampizatOr]

Hi,
grounding the secondary or not grounding does not change anything the slightest bit. If at maximum power there is higher voltage at the speaker line, even if the black wire is grounded the red will still "kill you". As the secondary winding is completely insulated and galvanically separated and 2,5 kVolt rated - it does not martter.
Anyhow, that's not the point. Electrically speaking the two paths of balanced in reality meet and blend in the primary of the speaker transformer. Not in the speaker .

[FlexibleAudio]

Hi,
grounding the secondary or not grounding does not change anything the slightest bit. If at maximum power there is higher voltage at the speaker line, even if the black wire is grounded the red will still "kill you". As the secondary winding is completely insulated and galvanically separated and 2,5 kVolt rated - it does not martter.
Anyhow, that's not the point. Electrically speaking the two paths of balanced in reality meet and blend in the primary of the speaker transformer. Not in the speaker .

Thank you Lukasz. I want to be extremely respectful and I believe I understand the points you are making, but I do not follow the logic you are using and how it relates to the fact that I have never seen such an approach (save very low power headphone amps where it truly doesn't matter). I am sure you must be right and I am missing something so please accept my apology for being confused, but your help on this would be much appreciated.

When a speaker is wired to a power amp it is not "passive" as you say, it has all the power of the amplifier and as you point out the red wire will absolutely kill you. I agree that there is insulation around the wire and the windings to protect the user, but similar precautions take place in all of the electrical components in audio. The purpose of the ground is to protect the user from a scenario where through some improbable act of God the hot is shorted to the device. In this case the ground takes that short to earth. That is why AES takes such care in its Standards for connections to ensure the devices are properly grounded (let alone UL, Local Electrical Codes, etc.).

So if I understand things correctly, lets take an all metal speaker like Magico. Now assume an act of God shorts the red (or black for that matter in your case) to the cabinet. Since that entire cabinet is now live (i.e., no ground is available to take the current to earth) anyone touching the cabinet is in big trouble.... What am I missing?

Or more specifically: Is this approach AES compliant? Why have I never seen it used?

[Steve]

I am also interested in purchasing this product and Paul above raises a pertinent point with regards to electrical safety compliance in various import jurisdictions.

I am aware that there is an Australian distributor for Lampizator. As Australia has very stringent and mandatory electrical regulatory compliance standards, I am presuming the product has already undergone Australian Product Safety Standard Certification for importation and use in Australia, and that the product is appropriately compliance marked also.

Given that this is a relatively new product being made available in Australia, notwithstanding manufacturer/distributor importation pre-requisites apply and I would feel comfortable actually seeing product compliance markings on the box chassis with a copy of the approval certificate in the documentation before considering product suitability further.

Thank you in advance.

[LampizatOr]

I checked with out factory, and all our amps always have black terminal grounded. I wasnt sure in the beginning.
I thought that you understood an obvious joke about killing. 25V AC hasnt killed anybody ever, even in a bathtub. Especially that as you described, if a floating circuit is present somewhere, the current will NOT FLOW because it is not closed. But I am not to educate here. If Got wanted to kill you by his "act" He would have used a more efective way.

[FlexibleAudio]

I checked with out factory, and all our amps always have black terminal grounded. I wasnt sure in the beginning.
I thought that you understood an obvious joke about killing. 25V AC hasnt killed anybody ever, even in a bathtub. Especially that as you described, if a floating circuit is present somewhere, the current will NOT FLOW because it is not closed. But I am not to educate here. If Got wanted to kill you by his "act" He would have used a more efective way.

Lukasz I am not looking for you to educate per se I was just trying to understand. I have kids and this is kinda important to me. I don't want to be a jerk here so maybe someone else can tell me where I am wrong with the following; I am only trying to understand and this is very serious stuff.

First you said the black is supposed to be isolated by the transformer and float with no ground and carries a charge. Either it carries a signal opposite to the positive circuit or it doesn't. It can't carry a an electrical potential in relation to earth ground and be earth grounded at the same time.

Volts don't kill, amps do and it only takes .1 amp to do so; .05 amps is a very severe shock which can results in breathing difficulty and paralysis; .01 amps is classified as a severe shock. The 211 has 85 watts which delivers about 2.6 amps at 26 volts depending on your power correction factor. Skin resistance is about 500 ohms when moist meaning 26 volts will move at least .05 amps into the body. If voltage is not fully regulated it could be more. Any more can cause death.

There is a reason AES Standards exist and I would guess there might be a reason folks don't use this technique to run a balanced configuration into a two wire system. I wonder if they are related? I understand for many such a risk maybe ok and that is perfectly fine; I just want it to be understood.

[dminches]

I think this discussion should be moved to private messaging since it seems to be more about electrical engineering than the Golden Gate.

[FlexibleAudio]

I think this discussion should be moved to private messaging since it seems to be more about electrical engineering than the Golden Gate.

Peachy keen, but at a minimum I hope everybody realizes, for this unit, the universal use of the color Black or Negative for neutral on the terminal ain't neutral it's HOT just like the other terminal; and it will bite your butt just like the Red or Positive. And as I said, 85 watts at 26 volts may not kill you but under some conditions it won't be pretty. If people have no interest in such things that, as I said, is..peachy keen.

[Mike]

Well, after several days, there is no doubt in my mind that the Balanced Lampi GG represents the pinnacle of Lampizator DAC's. It's quieter, sweeter on top and a slightly fuller sound than the SE version IN A BALANCED ENVIRONMENT (Pass Pre or Lampi Balanced 211's in my case). In a single ended environment (my air tight), I liked the full SE setup. Here, the Lampi GG SE was a touch sweeter.

The bottom line? If you're running a balanced setup, get the balanced. If you're running SE, stay with the SE version.

Surprises? I wasn't prepared for just how much better the Balanced Lampi GG would be over the SE Lampi GG running into my Pass XS Pre and Pass XS150's.

I can summarize it this way: the lower noise floor and additional gain of the Balanced Lampi GG allowed the DAC and the entire system to really deliver sonic excellence.

I found the best fit, for me, was the Balanced GG Lampi with the exceptional Pass XS electronics. That's not to take anything away from the Lampi 211's or AT gear, they are excellent and depending on your listening preferences, may represent nirvana. But one has to wonder, on certain albums (hard driving, punchy, dynamic albums like Hugh Masakela - HOPE), if Lampi DAC + tube preamp/amp is not just too much of a good thing.

Sometimes I like a little Ying with my Yang.

[socfan12]

Nice comparo, Mike!

[Steve]

I think this discussion should be moved to private messaging since it seems to be more about electrical engineering than the Golden Gate.

I don't agree! When it comes to product safety, the manufacturer has a statutory requirement to meet. It is simple. All Lukasz needs to do is answer my earlier post. If the products have electrical safety compliance certification in the USA, Australia and the like and are labelled with an approval mark on the chassis, then there is no need to question the engineering with academics. How he makes his product is his business. Our business is to know that it is merchantable and fit for purpose.

SIMPLE QUESTION: Is the Lampizator Golden Gate and any other Lapizator product electrically certified safe to use? Yes or No?

If yes, demonstrate compliance evidence. If no, it is not merchantable because it is unsafe, so don't buy it. In Australia it would be illegal and the manufacturer/importer would be subject to recall, refund, fines and penalties.

[Mike Lavigne]

Mike,

many thanks for your very helpful comparison and comments.

I assume you only used your mega buck NOS WE300b's for this comparison. or did you try different tubes in the various configurations? not to say that that would have changed your preferences, although a more neutral tube may have changed the synergy with the Lampi 211 amp possibly. maybe 'less' of a good thing and more balanced overall?

[Mike]

Mike - I tried my Replica 300b's in both. It was for only a short period because once you've tasted a perfect filet, it's hard to eat hamburger. I didn't have enough 101d's to try. The WE300b's are off the charts.

[Mike Lavigne]

Mike - I tried my Replica 300b's in both. It was for only a short period because once you've tasted a perfect filet, it's hard to eat hamburger. I didn't have enough 101d's to try. The WE300b's are off the charts.

thanks.

[Mike Lavigne]

Mike,

another question. if given the choice and given you own the Pass Labs balanced gear; would you go a Bal GG with 300b replicas, or SE GG with NOS WE300b's?

this is for you personally.

[Mike]

Mike,

another question. if given the choice and given you own the Pass Labs balanced gear; would you go a Bal GG with 300b replicas, or SE GG with NOS WE300b's?

this is for you personally.

Balanced GG for sure. I'd then save for WE300b's or Takasuki's. The Elrog's sound wonderful too. But at the end of the day, the black backgrounds gained from the Balanced Lampi, along with the increase in gain and also, much quieter volume and input switching operation was what put it over the top for me.

The SE version could make some strange noises when switching inputs, increasing the volume. I haven't found any of that with the balanced.

Also, the balanced Lampi has a BNC input. Need to explore that a little further. Wonder how/if it handles DSD?

Sometimes they're like the prize in the bottom of the Cracker Jack box.

Mike, if you're thinking Lampi - go Balanced GG - you won't be disappointed.

[Mike Lavigne]

Balanced GG for sure. I'd then save for WE300b's or Takasuki's. The Elrog's sound wonderful too. But at the end of the day, the black backgrounds gained from the Balanced Lampi, along with the increase in gain and also, much quieter volume and input switching operation was what put it over the top for me.

The SE version could make some strange noises when switching inputs, increasing the volume. I haven't found any of that with the balanced.

Also, the balanced Lampi has a BNC input. Need to explore that a little further. Wonder how/if it handles DSD?

Sometimes they're like the prize in the bottom of the Cracker Jack box.

Mike, if you're thinking Lampi - go Balanced GG - you won't be disappointed.

I see the Lampi GG like i see a cartridge. there are systems that need high gain and other things like switching from a dac, and other systems that are so quiet and explosive that refinement and delicacy is where it's at. double the circuits (with differentially balanced) is double the stuff in the signal path. the additional horsepower helps when it helps. but things are rarely quite that simple.

yet no doubt I respect and enjoy it when a source has more authority and pace, as long as it's not at the expense of nuance. and I am not inferring that the BAL GG may not be more nuanced than the SE GG. but that is a question yet to be answered as far as how that might work in all systems.

your feedback is much appreciated.

[bonzo]

Well, after several days, there is no doubt in my mind that the Balanced Lampi GG represents the pinnacle of Lampizator DAC's. It's quieter, sweeter on top and a slightly fuller sound than the SE version IN A BALANCED ENVIRONMENT (Pass Pre or Lampi Balanced 211's in my case). In a single ended environment (my air tight), I liked the full SE setup. Here, the Lampi GG SE was a touch sweeter.

The bottom line? If you're running a balanced setup, get the balanced. If you're running SE, stay with the SE version.

Surprises? I wasn't prepared for just how much better the Balanced Lampi GG would be over the SE Lampi GG running into my Pass XS Pre and Pass XS150's.

I can summarize it this way: the lower noise floor and additional gain of the Balanced Lampi GG allowed the DAC and the entire system to really deliver sonic excellence.

I found the best fit, for me, was the Balanced GG Lampi with the exceptional Pass XS electronics. That's not to take anything away from the Lampi 211's or AT gear, they are excellent and depending on your listening preferences, may represent nirvana. But one has to wonder, on certain albums (hard driving, punchy, dynamic albums like Hugh Masakela - HOPE), if Lampi DAC + tube preamp/amp is not just too much of a good thing.

Sometimes I like a little Ying with my Yang.

Nice comparison, but like ML says, very tube dependent. 300b will give that bit sweeter sound, with 101ds it will be different.

[Alpinist]

Well, after several days, there is no doubt in my mind that the Balanced Lampi GG represents the pinnacle of Lampizator DAC's. It's quieter, sweeter on top and a slightly fuller sound than the SE version IN A BALANCED ENVIRONMENT (Pass Pre or Lampi Balanced 211's in my case). In a single ended environment (my air tight), I liked the full SE setup. Here, the Lampi GG SE was a touch sweeter.

The bottom line? If you're running a balanced setup, get the balanced. If you're running SE, stay with the SE version.

Surprises? I wasn't prepared for just how much better the Balanced Lampi GG would be over the SE Lampi GG running into my Pass XS Pre and Pass XS150's.

I can summarize it this way: the lower noise floor and additional gain of the Balanced Lampi GG allowed the DAC and the entire system to really deliver sonic excellence.

I found the best fit, for me, was the Balanced GG Lampi with the exceptional Pass XS electronics. That's not to take anything away from the Lampi 211's or AT gear, they are excellent and depending on your listening preferences, may represent nirvana. But one has to wonder, on certain albums (hard driving, punchy, dynamic albums like Hugh Masakela - HOPE), if Lampi DAC + tube preamp/amp is not just too much of a good thing.

Sometimes I like a little Ying with my Yang.

Hi Mike,

Thanks so much for your terrific review! It is greatly appreciated. My Soulution 520 preamp's inputs are unbalanced whether they're RCA or XLR. Cyril Hammer said they could hear no difference, so they went unbalanced. However, from preamp to amps is fully balanced (XLR) with no unbalanced (RCA) connections. So with this sort of hybrid system, do you think I would reap the benefits of the balanced GG over the SE GG? I know for instance that my K-01 from its balanced outputs into my 520/501 system sounds better to my ears than into the fully balanced XP-30/XA-100.8 I used to own.

Additionally, how much heat are the 5 tubes producing compared to the 3 tubes of the SE GG?

Great job!! Thanks again!!

Ken

[wisnon]

Mike - I tried my Replica 300b's in both. It was for only a short period because once you've tasted a perfect filet, it's hard to eat hamburger. I didn't have enough 101d's to try. The WE300b's are off the charts.

OMG, I used the same analogy with somebody (a diplomat stationed in Gva) yesterday about a totally different topic. It was about Athletics. After the terrific World Champs in Beijing when our guys did exceptionally well, I was asked if I was going to the Weltklasse in Zurich tomorrow (the so-called 1 day Olympics) and my reply was that you dont go back to hamburger after having your fill of Kobe steak. LoL

Amazing that we thought of the same analogy!

BTW, I saw a quad of WE 300bs on Ebay and almost had a myocardial infarction! $10K for the Quad. Whoa!

[wisnon]

Hi Mike,

Thanks so much for your terrific review! It is greatly appreciated. My Soulution 520 preamp's inputs are unbalanced whether they're RCA or XLR. Cyril Hammer said they could hear no difference, so they went unbalanced. However, from preamp to amps is fully balanced (XLR) with no unbalanced (RCA) connections. So with this sort of hybrid system, do you think I would reap the benefits of the balanced GG over the SE GG? I know for instance that my K-01 from its balanced outputs into my 520/501 system sounds better to my ears than into the fully balanced XP-30/XA-100.8 I used to own.

Additionally, how much heat are the 5 tubes producing compared to the 3 tubes of the SE GG?

Great job!! Thanks again!!

Ken

I find the recti always the hottest in the B7.

Tube heat can easily be estimated looking at the specs...it uses a 6.8v heater, so the V differential from the tube to that times the amp gives the heat dissipation in watts. Thus 2A3 is a lot hotter than 300b and 101d. Double that for balanced.

[wisnon]

Nice comparison, but like ML says, very tube dependent. 300b will give that bit sweeter sound, with 101ds it will be different.

I imagine the Replica 101ds will sound more SS than the 300B's no? I dont have 300Bs myself and I have the cheapo 101ds (ceramic) but I do have WE vintage 101ds (ST shape).

Horses for courses, as I really like the EML mesh 45.

[bonzo]

I imagine the Replica 101ds will sound more SS than the 300B's no? I dont have 300Bs myself and I have the cheapo 101ds (ceramic) but I do have WE vintage 101ds (ST shape).

Horses for courses, as I really like the EML mesh 45.

Well I guess the point I want to make is they will sound different enough to have a high probability that the comparison between Pass, AT, and Lampi 211 ends with a different conclusion - I have zero experience with AT and Lampi 211, btw

[wisnon]

I do agree, Bonzo. I took your point.

[dminches]

I don't agree! When it comes to product safety, the manufacturer has a statutory requirement to meet. It is simple. All Lukasz needs to do is answer my earlier post. If the products have electrical safety compliance certification in the USA, Australia and the like and are labelled with an approval mark on the chassis, then there is no need to question the engineering with academics. How he makes his product is his business. Our business is to know that it is merchantable and fit for purpose.

SIMPLE QUESTION: Is the Lampizator Golden Gate and any other Lapizator product electrically certified safe to use? Yes or No?

If yes, demonstrate compliance evidence. If no, it is not merchantable because it is unsafe, so don't buy it. In Australia it would be illegal and the manufacturer/importer would be subject to recall, refund, fines and penalties.

I never said the topic wasn't important. But, maybe you could show some courtesy to have this discussion in private since this is the manufacturer's forum. To suggest in his forum there is a safety issue without really knowing is unnecessary.

[Mike]

I never said the topic wasn't important. But, maybe you could show some courtesy to have this discussion in private since this is the manufacturer's forum. To suggest in his forum there is a safety issue without really knowing is unnecessary.

Agreed and I've had more than a few people PM me about this thread as well. I think we want to welcome all manufacturers with open arms and although this is an important topic to one or two people, I'm not sure a public forum is the place to grill them on things like this. Put yourself in their shoes. A PM is your best bet.

YMMV.

[MDP]

I agree Mike.

[FlexibleAudio]

Hello Lukasz,

it is very cool to have you here. You have demonstrated some incredible ingenuity in your gear. If you have the time I would love to clarify something as well.

So if I read the above post correctly, the only difference is the regular 6db gain and from balanced and some internal common mode noise cancellation. Would it be a reasonable supposition that the stiffer powers supply you reference could be attained through a different isolation scheme in the single-ended dac since the only difference is coming from noise cancellations? Alternatively, I normally think of stiffening my PS by using different rectifiers; do you think it is possible to get to the same spot with the single-ended as the fully balanced by taking that route or is the difference to great?

Hello,
the cancellation is not about "noises" but about consumption fluctuations. There is one common point where two opposite phases suck energy from. The suck varies according to the music but in opposite phase. So if one phase demands 20% MORE, at the same moment the other phase demands 20% less, hence the supply point remains fixed. Does not need to supply any more during that passage. That's the cool element in it.

Ahh so the reduced fluctuation helps offset the lack of stiffness that might be present in a tube rectified power supply as opposed to say a solid state??? That would make a great deal of sense to me.

Hi Mike,

Thanks so much for your terrific review! It is greatly appreciated. My Soulution 520 preamp's inputs are unbalanced whether they're RCA or XLR. Cyril Hammer said they could hear no difference, so they went unbalanced. However, from preamp to amps is fully balanced (XLR) with no unbalanced (RCA) connections. So with this sort of hybrid system, do you think I would reap the benefits of the balanced GG over the SE GG? I know for instance that my K-01 from its balanced outputs into my 520/501 system sounds better to my ears than into the fully balanced XP-30/XA-100.8 I used to own.

Additionally, how much heat are the 5 tubes producing compared to the 3 tubes of the SE GG?

Great job!! Thanks again!!

Ken

Ken, That is a great question. I don't want to jump in front of Mikes great first-hand experiences but the above exchange with Lucasz says a lot to me about why you may want to audition the balanced version even with your unbalanced 520. Per Lucasz reduced power fluctuation is responsible for a stiffened power supply. I know this can dramatically improve the performance of a dht design. People often role recti's to make up for perceived PS softness (i.e., matching the PS to the plate impedance of the output tubes) but this approach may be yielding greater returns. The blacker backgrounds Mike refers to may also may reflect some internal cmnr in the unbalanced that balanced is cleaning up.

[Mike]

Hi Mike,

Thanks so much for your terrific review! It is greatly appreciated. My Soulution 520 preamp's inputs are unbalanced whether they're RCA or XLR. Cyril Hammer said they could hear no difference, so they went unbalanced. However, from preamp to amps is fully balanced (XLR) with no unbalanced (RCA) connections. So with this sort of hybrid system, do you think I would reap the benefits of the balanced GG over the SE GG? I know for instance that my K-01 from its balanced outputs into my 520/501 system sounds better to my ears than into the fully balanced XP-30/XA-100.8 I used to own.

Additionally, how much heat are the 5 tubes producing compared to the 3 tubes of the SE GG?

Great job!! Thanks again!!

Ken

Thanks Ken. Unless you're running a full single ended system (amp, preamp, cables), go for the balanced. There is no doubt in my mind. To me, single ended systems produce more problems than solutions. Take single ended cables for example. You can have a very thin cable with lots of shielding to lower noise floor, but that has sonic trade offs, namely, no 3D, depth. You can have a thicker cable with less shielding, but then you introduce noise and I mean, typically, hum.

The fully balanced system (Lampi GG balanced and Pass XS) is DEAD quiet and don't discount the benefit of not having to drive the shit out of your preamp either. Example: with the balanced GG Lampi, the Pass preamp at -20 produces the same SPL as it does at -2 on the SE. I'm fussy when it comes to driving the hell out of a preamp. At some point (typically past 0), the preamp introduces much more distortion and noise. -20 is quite comfy for me! - and identical to my other balanced digital sources.

In truly building a great system, achieving the lowest noise floor possible is a goal for all audiophiles. Black backgrounds are addicting.

[FlexibleAudio]

Agreed and I've had more than a few people PM me about this thread as well. I think we want to welcome all manufacturers with open arms and although this is an important topic to one or two people, I'm not sure a public forum is the place to grill them on things like this. Put yourself in their shoes. A PM is your best bet.

YMMV.

Well let me apologize to Lucasz and the forum. I did not realize I was grilling him. In, fact I thought I was complementary regarding his designs and trying to be polite. I also thought I was asking some very, very straightforward questions that relate directly to his product's unique design and its implication to users.

I guess I am confused about what the purpose of having a manufacturer join us here might be if we can't have basic interaction. Is it just for adoration? Before this interaction, a Shark member PM-ed me specifically to tell me he had Lucasz join the forum to "answer my questions."

I would expect a manufacturer to openly embrace this type of dialogue. (At least that has always been my experience.) If this isn't a topic of concern why not just put clear answers on the table? Problem solved.

To answer your question Mike, if I were in his shoes I would answer the questions directly and if the discussion yields an area where my product might be changed to address the point I would acknowledge why that makes sense, or not. If the question is not a legitimate one I would explain in a clear way why it is so and move on. Your product is then legitimized and the party asking the question walks away enlightened.

IMO the only reasonable complaint made was that I should have opened a thread called: "Lampizator 211 Amp" rather than doing this on the GG thread, but Lucasz was present here. Sorry to all about that too.

[Mike]

Take your discussion to the newly created tech section. If Lukasz wants to respond there, he will.

[FlexibleAudio]

Thanks Mike, I greatly appreciate you providing that venue for discussion. I truly do not want to make Lukasz feel unwanted here so I will leave this topic alone. He can always pm Steve or me if he desires.

[sfox7076]

I have had more problems with balanced than with single ended over time. Some of it was pseudo balanced. Some was running tubes in a balanced format so that you needed precisely matched tubes. Some was poor design no doubt. Over time, so long as I keep things in short distances, I have found SE is better for me. And yes, I have owned fully balanced gear that was not fake balanced. Just my opinion in my system and my situation.

[bonzo]

I assume you are referring to noon Lampi gear when you say fake balanced?

[sfox7076]

Non LampizatOr made gear, yes. I have not owned balanced lampi gear. Buying all new equipment would be too much.

[Steve]

I had high hopes for this brand but it is still evidently early days and this company has still got some growing up to do from its garage roots. I don't need to be PM'd on the topic of electrical safety compliance certification. I've been PM'd by a few of you in the earlier days before you all jumped on board and we spoke of the product quality track record of the company before generation 5, PCBs didn't we...

If the manufacturer cannot publicly confirm that it has met country specific statutory electrical safety compliance certification on this forum, it's website or elsewhere, then that speaks volumes.

I know many of you have vested interest as customers of Lampizator and everyone wants Lukasz to succeed and contribute here, but your safety, your insurance policy and your product resale value is at stake if the manufacturer/importer does not come good with his legal obligations.

[Steve]

I never said the topic wasn't important. But, maybe you could show some courtesy to have this discussion in private since this is the manufacturer's forum. To suggest in his forum there is a safety issue without really knowing is unnecessary.

The product either meets statutory regulations and is approved for use in the USA, Australia, EU or it doesn't....It's a relevant question for a manufacturer's forum. This has nothing to do with courtesy. What a ridiculous thing to say. Why beat around the bush about it?

I'm asking the most important question here, and I'm getting a diversion.

[FlexibleAudio]

The product either meets statutory regulations and is approved for use in the USA and Australia or it doesn't....It's a relevant question for a manufacturer's forum. This has nothing to do with courtesy. What a ridiculous thing to say. Why beat around the bush about it.

Your gunna git a woopin.

[Steve]

So be it. It's a very important public question.

Audioshark, unlike the other forums is not manufacturer sponsored, so what's the issue?

Perhaps the product is safe. Perhaps the product has undergone a compliance tick. We need to know.

Does your chassis have a compliance marking on it?

[Mike]

So be it. It's a very important public question.

Audioshark, unlike the other forums is not manufacturer sponsored, so what's the issue?

Needs to be in the right area. Tech talk.

[FlexibleAudio]

Good night Steve.

[Alpinist]

Hi Mike and Paul,

Lukasz has confirmed that I should go for the balanced GG with my system. While the preamp will only use 1 set of tubes, the heavier load will cause the PS to be "stiffer" and likely result in SQ gain (lower noise). If I get it with the volume control, I can also experiment with running it direct to the power amps and see what I like better. Consequently, the balanced version will have more flexibility for me and be useful for both balanced and SE purposes.

You guys called it!

All the best,
Ken

[sfox7076]

I have had a SE GG for about a week now. The sound is awesome. my only real gripe is why the heaters for the tubes remain on when the DAC is put into standby. I don't understand why that happens. Seems like they should be off.

[wisnon]

That is because the constant on off of the heaters are what slowly kills tubes (say it lets in one air molecule for each switch on/off...reducing the vacuum). The tubes staying on preserve their useful life and also keeps the Dac ready for optimal playback. You need to shut it down wityhthe rocker switch at the back when you wont use for a while. the tubes take about 90m to stabilize and sound their best.

I guess that is the thinking involved.

[joeinid]

From the Lampizator manual ...


Power on-off cycle

The tube lifetime, almost like the life of a car engine in polar climate – is determined largely by the on-off cycle. The heat expansion coefficient of the glass is so much different than that of the metal, that the air-tight seal of the metal pins can leak oxygen inside the tube and eventually kill it. Even if it is just one molecule per day. So in other words it is better to keep the DAC always on, than to switch it on and off more than necessary.

The lampizator DAC (level 3 and up) has a slow start feature which brings the high voltage supply gradually up, at the rate of two- to five volts per second. The PSU reaches 300 V DC after 90 seconds. This helps to extend tube life. The DAC is also equipped with voltage down feature (bleeders) which reduce the power voltage upon switch-off at roughly the same rate. On top of that – the tubes are operated always around 25% of full nominal power, which greatly increases their life expectancy. Combining all the factors together, the tube lifetime should be anywhere between 10 and 20 years, assuming the player is switched off only once per day, for the night.