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  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    N. VA
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    393

    JL Audio "V1" Subs - A Word Of Advice

    I wanted to advise anyone considering buying a "V1" series of of JL Audio Subs. I had a pair of F110 V1's, and had them turned off for a few months because I felt they couldn't adequately "keep up" with my Alexias and my Boulder amp's massive power and bass control. So, one weekend about a month ago I plugged them in. One unit wouldn't power on, the other made a humming sound and didn't perform that well. I contacted JL Tech Support -- and I highly recommend their tech support -- very professional, helpful, and courteous. Shane Dalley and Randy Wagner were amazing to deal with. Luckily, I had a little over a month of warranty left on the subs. I learned through the process that JL made a bad choice in capacitors for the V1's and they go bad if not constantly powered on -- even then, they tend to go bad eventually. Perhaps they were saving a buck, perhaps it was just a bad batch, I don't know personally. But I do know this sort of thing happens a lot in subwoofers. In my case, my capacitors had dried up. These issues were "fixed" in all JL "V2" amps in addition to adding features such as better room correction software and improved amps.

    So, if you buy a "V1" make sure its amp has been recapped or it has additional warranty. At least find out how much recapping the amp will cost you out of warranty because odds are against you now that the "V1's" are getting to be anywhere from 2-5 years old. Be smart about the actual cost of what you buy knowing full-well that you may end up paying to fix it (maybe even because it was unplugged during the time it was shipped to you)!

    Nothing against JL. They make great subs. But this is an issue on all "V1" subs, and people should know about it. Especially those looking to buy used.

    JL's service is so good, they go completely through the amp and entire sub and resolve whatever issues they come across when you send it in. They are true professionals, so at least feel comfortable with the idea that their service is top-notch.
    Ref System: Wilson Alexx on Stillpoint Ultras w/Base, dCS Rossini & Upsampler & Clock, Audio Research REF 160S, REF 6SE, WW Platinum Everywhere, Roon
    Office System: B&W N802D2, NAD M10
    Living Room System: B&W N804D, NAD M10, Velodyne DD+10
    Bedroom: Dynaudio Focus 160, NAD M10, Velodyne DD+10

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Naples, FL
    Posts
    615

    Re: JL Audio "V1" Subs - A Word Of Advice

    This is very good advice!
    I have a F113 v.1 in my living room system that suffered this issue and had to have the amp replaced a couple of years ago. Mine was out of warranty and the repair was expensive.
    Buddy

    Boulder 1160 Amp, 1110 Pre-Amp
    Audio Research Ref. 3 Phono-Pre
    Vivid Audio Giya G2S2 Speakers
    MSB Reference DAC
    Innuos Statement w/Next. Gen. PS
    B & W DB1D Subwoofer X2
    Audioquest Niagara 5000 Power Conditioner
    Kronos Pro Turntable w/Kronoscope RS tonearm + SCPS-1 PS + MSL Platinum Cart.
    VPI HW-40 Turntable w/ Lyra Etna cartridge
    Jay's Audio CDT3-MK3 CD Transport
    Schiit Mjolnir 2 HPA + Audeze LCD X headphones
    Adona Equipment Rack and Amp Stands
    Furutech Outlets and Plates + NCF Booster
    Shunyata Cables
    Synergistic Research Galileo SX Ground Block, FEQ 4, Ethernet Switch UEF, Black Box + Room Acoustic treatments

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    North Central Florida
    Posts
    3,483

    Re: JL Audio "V1" Subs - A Word Of Advice

    My JL Audio Fathom f113 v:1 is still rocking without any issues after eight years. No complaints. There are times I don't turn the living room system on for days, sometime even a week or more. Guess I'll just keep my fingers crossed and hope my f113 is the exception. Then again, it could drop dead tomorrow. One never knows.
    Dan

    STUDIO - McIntosh C1000C/P, MC2301 (2), MR88, Aurender N10, Esoteric K-01X, Shunyata Sigma spdif digital coax,
    Sonos Connect, Stillpoints Ultra SS & Ultra Mini, PurePower 2000, Furutech Flux 50, Michell Gyro SE, Michell HR Power Supply, SME 309, Ortofon Cadenza Black, Sonus faber Amati Anniversario

    LIVING ROOM - McIntosh C2300, MC75 (2), MR85, Magnum Dynalab 205 Signal Sleuth, Sonos Connect, Simaudio MOON Neo 260D-T, Schiit Audio Yggdrasil, Aurender N100H, Shunyata Sigma USB cable,
    Sony DAT 60ES, Nakamichi BX-300, Micro Seiki DD40 w/m505A tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Blue, PS Audio P10, Furutech Flux 50, Stillpoints Ultra Mini, PMC EB1i, JL Audio f113

    VINTAGE - McIntosh 4300V, McIntosh MA230, Tandberg 3011A tuner, Olive 04HD, JBL 4312A

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    N. VA
    Posts
    393

    Re: JL Audio "V1" Subs - A Word Of Advice

    For those curious about capacitors, how to identify a bad one, etc. There's a nice quick intro site at http://www.instructables.com/id/What...Bad-Capacitor/ -- it doesn't get too technnical and has links to other places to learn more or even get a tester of your own

    And Dan, you're one of those guys who's gear never goes bad aren't you ? I'm the guy that buys electronics and they fail the day after the warranty goes bad. Or I get a lemon after another lemon (I went through 5 McIntosh MX150's several years ago -- I heard lots of folks say, "I never had a problem with mine."). I need some of your good fortune haha.
    Ref System: Wilson Alexx on Stillpoint Ultras w/Base, dCS Rossini & Upsampler & Clock, Audio Research REF 160S, REF 6SE, WW Platinum Everywhere, Roon
    Office System: B&W N802D2, NAD M10
    Living Room System: B&W N804D, NAD M10, Velodyne DD+10
    Bedroom: Dynaudio Focus 160, NAD M10, Velodyne DD+10

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JL Audio "V1" Subs -  A Word Of Advice

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