"Pressurizing" the room -- or not

Bart001

Bart001

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Our living room is part of a somewhat open floorplan townhouse and there are openings into adjacent areas on either side of the wall against which my listening couch backs up to. These openings are about 8 feet wide, on each side of that rear wall, and mean that the room cannot really be "pressurized" by loudspeakers.

What this precisely means for speaker setup, etc., is what I'm asking. I sent photos to Jim Smith (Get Better Sound) and his immediate comment was that this room topology limits what I can do and in turn what he can do. He thought that having him spend significant time would not be fruitful for this reason alone.

I'm sure that this isn't rare, especially as more open floorplan designs started becoming popular at least here in the States quite a while ago.

Any comments or suggestions? My A3's sound pretty darn good, and I'm happy sitting in the room and listening. But I know that all things being equal, a room that can be 'sealed' has advantages - apparently!
 
A picture is worth a thousand words. You might want to upload a picture and folks may be able to provide ideas.
A couple of thoughts:
-you might be able to build sliding panels that may be concealed into the existing back wall. You would 'close'/slide the panels when doing critical listening.
-digital room correction. In my experience, digital room correction can make a huge difference particularly in rooms that are compromised. Much more cost efficient than many tweaks (e.g., cables)
 
Modifying the room (adding doors or their equivalent) isn't an option for us, but I can see how that idea could occur! I'm definitely not going down the dsp-based room correction rabbit hole either, for various reasons . . . including the somewhat 'flat earth' approach of Naim. Not that that's good, bad, indifferent; just an excuse not to get started with it on my end!!

I was just wondering how much of a "thing" this is -- pressurizing the room, or not.
 
I listened to music in a open space area for quite some time before my wife finally "encouraged" a 2015 addition that included a space for a closed media room. I tried a number of "acoustic" improvements in the open area which helped. But ultimately acoustic treatment was not cost effective.

My media room was acoustically designed and treated as part of the building plan. The improvement was all I had hoped for, especially imaging and clarity. But the bass didn't substantially improve until I decided recently to add a subwoofer and crossover. I'm currently listening in a room that bares little resemblance to where I was listening before. But this was a huge undertaking I could only justify because of the amount of time I spend listening to music.

If you can manage a dedicated listening room and spend lots of time really listening to music, I urge you to do it. It's definitely worth the hassle and expense. But I had years of music enjoyment in a open space area.
 
"Pressurizing" the room -- or not

Just in case that you are not aware, it is possible to apply digital room correction even if your DAC or preamp does not have that feature. For example, I use Roon to apply room correction filters and then send the adjusted signal to my digital preamp for digital to analog decoding. Done properly and judiciously, room correction can do wonders. And given your irregular room situation, even more reason to seriously consider it.
 
Bart001 said:
Our living room is part of a somewhat open floorplan townhouse and there are openings into adjacent areas on either side of the wall against which my listening couch backs up to. These openings are about 8 feet wide, on each side of that rear wall, and mean that the room cannot really be "pressurized" by loudspeakers.

What this precisely means for speaker setup, etc., is what I'm asking. I sent photos to Jim Smith (Get Better Sound) and his immediate comment was that this room topology limits what I can do and in turn what he can do. He thought that having him spend significant time would not be fruitful for this reason alone.

I'm sure that this isn't rare, especially as more open floorplan designs started becoming popular at least here in the States quite a while ago.

Any comments or suggestions? My A3's sound pretty darn good, and I'm happy sitting in the room and listening. But I know that all things being equal, a room that can be 'sealed' has advantages - apparently!
Click to expand...

It’s important IMO and IME. Adding subs would mitigate your issue significantly, if not all.

Dual Magico Asub’s would be ideal for your A3s. [emoji51]
 
kzhtoo said:
It’s important IMO and IME. Adding subs would mitigate your issue significantly, if not all.

Dual Magico Asub’s would be ideal for your A3s. [emoji51]
Click to expand...

Agreed 100%


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
kzhtoo said:
It’s important IMO and IME. Adding subs would mitigate your issue significantly, if not all.

Dual Magico Asub’s would be ideal for your A3s. [emoji51]
Click to expand...

Interesting. If/when my dealer get's one/two in, I'll borrow them. Honestly, at least coming from my Devore Nines (and having used a JL sub with them for much of the time), I'm pretty happy with the bass from the A3's. But I know that subs do more than just "thump bass."
 
Re: "Pressurizing" the room -- or not

nicoff said:
Just in case that you are not aware, it is possible to apply digital room correction even if your DAC or preamp does not have that feature. For example, I use Roon to apply room correction filters and then send the adjusted signal to my digital preamp for digital to analog decoding. Done properly and judiciously, room correction can do wonders. And given your irregular room situation, even more reason to seriously consider it.
Click to expand...

I use Roon, and it runs on a Roon Nucleus, and so I COULD at least try room correction with it. No reason not to just try and see (hear) what it does. Thanks for that reminder/suggestion.
 
Using twin Magico A-subs would look great with your A3s and system. And pressurizing your room and using some room correction sounds like good advice.

I think I'd look at this option/comparison

A sub

10" driver-18"x17".6"x14.5" box-108lbs-500watts-20-120Hz-$6500x2=$13,000 and of course the dreaded Magico wait period.

SVS SB-3000

13" driver-15.6"x15.2"x17.8" box-54.5lbs-800watts-18-270Hz-$999x2=$1999 (actually less if bought in pairs) free shipping and …..no waiting. SVS also has a wireless adapter for 119.99 and a phone app
 
One motivation for getting the A3's was getting rid of the JL sub! People have done stranger things . . . so maybe when the A subs are shipped I'll at least do a demo.
 
I used a SVS Ultra 13 ported sub with my HT setup. Sold it off when I decided to go back to just a two channel system. Sealed subs just don't have the thump and SLP problems that ported subs are known and used for. My only point to post about the sealed SVS 3000 was to point out the cost and time benefits. SVS has a 45 day trial period and next day shipping. Also selling the SVS on Craigslist if you choose not to send them back or keep them. Would have a quick turnaround time.
 
I used an SVS SB13Ultra in my music system for many years. Plenty enough thump. Now I have an SSUB. Plenty more thump.
 
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