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  1. #1
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    “Perfecting” power conditioning

    Given that AudioSharks provides the opportunity to exchange ideasand opinions on the more esoteric fringes of our audio hobby, I thought I’d initiatea discussion about at what point does power conditioning become too much –using my own configuration as an example of a more elaborate example of what,perhaps, is at the edge.

    For just my front end equipment, I have a dedicated 15 ampcircuit. Extracted from the wall with aShunyata Sidewinder Venom power cord, the power first goes to an ExactPowerEP-15A voltage regulator(https://hometheaterhifi.com/volume_11_4/exact-power-ep15a-ac-conditioner-11-2004.html). For those not familiar with this unit (whichis somewhat like a “cousin” of the PS Audio PowerPlant), it removes highfrequency irregularities from the 60 Hz waveform and then delivers theresultant current at precisely 120 Vrms. It also provides EMI and RFI filtering to the power. From the EP-15A, the power flows – via anotherShunyata Sidewinder Venom – to a Richard Gray’s Power Company Substation (https://www.avrev.com/home-theater-ac-power/ac-power/richard-grays-power-company-substation-hightensionwire.html),which both balances the power as a single phase line and provides a very substantialAC surge protection as well as a reserve of energy should it be needed. Out of this Substation – again via aSidewinder Venom – the power finally reaches my Shunyata Hydra. From there, current is delivered to variousfront-end components by a variety of other Shunyata power cords.

    I am very pleased with the cumulative effect of this powerconditioning hierarchy. Each unit provides– for the most part – different and complementary functions, the cumulativeresult of which is that I can turn the volume of my system essentially to fullgain (without any input) and the output at the speakers is still utterlysilent. Of course, as one can deducefrom the age of these components, I also have become very comfortable with –sort of like slipping into an old shoe – their possible impact on the sound ofmy system. Regardless, the “bottom line”is that this setup does work for me. Yes,all this power conditioning is far beyond typical, but I still don’t think itis too much.

    What have others done to ensure “best available” power to theirsystems?
    Jonathan
    _______________________

    Age is a mental construct.

    System: Theta Casablanca V preamp/processor/DAC; Wadia 8 transport; Wadia 2000 DAC; Theta Compli SACD transport; Lumin T2 streamer/DAC; Roon Nucleus+; Luxul AGS-1024 switch; SOTA Sapphire turntable w/Premier FT3 arm & Hana SL cartridge; PS Audio Stellar phono preamp; SweetVinyl SC-2 noise/click remover; Oppo 203 4K player; Magnum Dynalab FT-101A tuner; McIntosh MC611 mono amplifiers (3); Revel Ultima Studio/ Voice/Embrace speakers (L/C/R and sides); Arendal 1723 speakers (surrounds); SVS SB-16 (2) and 3000 Micro (2) subwoofers; Stax SR-L300 headphones; TeddyPardo 19/3 linear power supply; Richard Gray's Substation; Shunyata 6000/S, 2000/T (2), Venom PS10, Hydra (2), and Defender (2) power conditioners; Wireworld Silver Eclipse 8 speaker cables; Audioquest, Cardas, Kimber Kable, MIT, and Wireworld interconnects; Cullen, and Shunyata power cords.

    JVC RS 3100 projector; MadVR Envy Extreme II video processor.


  2. #2

    Re: “Perfecting” power conditioning

    I think it depends on what you are looking for, silent power or dynamics. Also, it depends on which components are you plugging into the Triton.

    There are people who prefer power conditioning. and others who argue that it will cost them dynamics. Hence they plug their amps directly into the wall.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    “Life’s too short to listen to bad audio.”

    Big rig: Brinkmann Taurus DD TT + 12.1 arm + Lyra Etna Lambda SL MC + HRS M3X2/ Cardas Clear Beyond phono/ Stillpoints LPI/ Brinkmann Edison mk2 phono + RöNT II Tube PS/ Synology NAS with Roon + HD Plex linear PSU + Shunyata HD/ AQ Vodka RJ45 + Aqvox Network Switch SE + AQ Diamond RJ45 into DAC/ Brinkmann Nyquist mk2/ Audionet Humboldt/ Cardas Clear Beyond ICs/ Kharma DB9-S 1.1 LS/ Inakustik Reference LS 4004 AIR/ Audioquest Niagara 5000/ Shunyata Alpha power (HC, Analogue, Digital)/ Finite Elemente Pagode Rack/ Stillpoints Ultra SS/ Vicoustic panels + Stillpoints Aperture II.

    Small rig: Naim UnitiServe/ Curious USB/ Tidal/ Linn Klimax DS3/ Shunyata Power cable/ Pass Labs INT-60/ Acoustic Zen Silver Reference II/ HiD Diamond 8/ Harbeth 30.2 40th Anniversary/ Shunyata Venom EU7 & Venom 3 HD.

    HP rig: MacBookAir/ Tidal/ Auralic Gemini 2000/ Sbooster LPSU/ Audeze LCD-2 Classic + WyWires Red/ Shunyata HD/ Shunyata Hydra 2/ Shunyata Venom.

  3. #3

    Re: “Perfecting” power conditioning

    Quote Originally Posted by Kuoppis View Post
    I think it depends on what you are looking for, silent power or dynamics. Also, it depends on which components are you plugging into the Triton.

    There are people who prefer power conditioning. and others who argue that it will cost them dynamics. Hence they plug their amps directly into the wall.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Yes, I put my preamp and amp directly into the wall. It is rare that a power conditioner does not affect dynamics negatively.

    For the digital front end I have an oversized 1000W Tripp Lite medical grade isolation transformer ($ 400). I don't believe in the expensive 'audiophile' stuff. I also don't believe in audiophile power chords which in my experience mostly either make no difference or even degrade the sound. I have 14 gauge Tripp Lite power chords for $ 6.49 a piece from Amazon.
    Simaudio Moon Neo 260 DT CD Transport / MIT SL-Matrix Plus AES/EBU digital cable / Schiit Yggdrasil Analog 2 DAC / Octave HP 700 preamp / Octave RE 320 stereo amp with Super Black Box / Reference 3A Reflector monitors on Sound Anchors Signature Stands / dual JL Audio Fathom 112 v2 subwoofers on ASC SubTraps / ZenWave Audio D4 and SMSG cables / Acoustic treatment: tube traps, Tri-panels, window plugs, ceiling diffusers (all ASC), large absorbing panels (Acoustics First), diverse carpets chosen for acoustic properties: wool, polypropylene basket-weave

  4. #4
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    Re: “Perfecting” power conditioning

    There are also those with strongly held beliefs that the fewer connections between the wall and powered components the better, and that for those that are required, good quality plugs matter. FWIW I am an advocate for good power cords. They have made a substantial difference in my system (which includes AQ Hurricane PCs and an AQ Niagara 5000 conditioner run off a dedicated 20 amp line).

  5. #5
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    Oregon
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    Re: “Perfecting” power conditioning

    Every connection acts like a resistor. IEC sockets, I. C. Connectors, Speaker terminals, etc. They are a convenience feature. I have read accounts of fanatics who have run the wall ac romex directly into a component. They did the same with Ic's and speaker cables. Very dangerous but supposedly a big sonic advantage.

  6. #6
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    Re: “Perfecting” power conditioning

    So, I thought I would provide an update. During the past week, I've been studying up on power conditioning, speaking with my favorite high-end audio equipment retailers, speaking with tech support at high-end power conditioning products (from whom I have purchased products) and playing with various daisy chains of my own power conditioning units. Of course, at the end, what is most important is what one's ears hear and brain interprets as "sounding best".

    For me, at least use of three different components in the following daisy chain sounds best -- outlet to voltage regulator, next to isolation transformer, and finally to power filter. Why each? Well, even though modern-day power supplies can handle typical swings in voltage, for them that is a secondary function. Having a dedicated voltage regulator relieves the power supply of having to address variations in voltage. The isolation transformer erases the noise that comes from residual DC power on the AC line and any possible powerline frequency hums. The power filter then eliminates whatever residual noise still remains.
    Jonathan
    _______________________

    Age is a mental construct.

    System: Theta Casablanca V preamp/processor/DAC; Wadia 8 transport; Wadia 2000 DAC; Theta Compli SACD transport; Lumin T2 streamer/DAC; Roon Nucleus+; Luxul AGS-1024 switch; SOTA Sapphire turntable w/Premier FT3 arm & Hana SL cartridge; PS Audio Stellar phono preamp; SweetVinyl SC-2 noise/click remover; Oppo 203 4K player; Magnum Dynalab FT-101A tuner; McIntosh MC611 mono amplifiers (3); Revel Ultima Studio/ Voice/Embrace speakers (L/C/R and sides); Arendal 1723 speakers (surrounds); SVS SB-16 (2) and 3000 Micro (2) subwoofers; Stax SR-L300 headphones; TeddyPardo 19/3 linear power supply; Richard Gray's Substation; Shunyata 6000/S, 2000/T (2), Venom PS10, Hydra (2), and Defender (2) power conditioners; Wireworld Silver Eclipse 8 speaker cables; Audioquest, Cardas, Kimber Kable, MIT, and Wireworld interconnects; Cullen, and Shunyata power cords.

    JVC RS 3100 projector; MadVR Envy Extreme II video processor.


  7. #7
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    Re: “Perfecting” power conditioning

    Power conditioning conversations can get terse. Everybody has a very biased opinion, many times based upon results from their own experimentation and experiences. AV, what you are advocating is a non-traditional usage of power conditioning equipment. Most people use one and maybe two if the 2nd is a plug into the other, not a plug through the other. Does that make sense?. Anyhow, if you are able to disassemble and reassemble the chain and find it performs to a higher level in your system then you are doing what's right for you and your setup.

    I would surmise what you are doing has also had a dramatic Improvement upon the picture from your video equipment.

  8. #8
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    Re: “Perfecting” power conditioning

    OP - Shunyata makes a great plug in Conditioner that I feel has netted me results and you can use them cumulatively.

    I use these on my the power strip for my modem along with a PS Audio noise harvester before it at the first socket.

    Much more reasonable than a full on conditioning unit.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Source Analog: Kuzma Stabi R w/4point 11 arm | Kuzma 50 Cartridge
    Source Digital: Aurender N10 | Brinkmann Nyquist MK II
    Amplification: Dan D’Agostino Momentum HD and M400’s | Boulder 508
    Speakers: Wilson Alexias
    Cabling: Nordost Leif, Norse, V2 and Odin
    Power and Isolation: Audio-Ultra Home & Room Power Foundation Performance Package with StromTank S1000 | HRS









  9. #9
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    Oct 2014
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    St. Paul, MN
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    Re: “Perfecting” power conditioning

    So far the best conditioners I have seen were made by Elgar, who did not make conditioners for high end audio. But they easily surpass those that were.

    The Elgar employs a massive isolation transformer that also powers the conditioner itself. A low distortion oscillator is synced to the AC line; the output of this oscillator is compared to the output of the conditioner and a correction voltage is thus generated and applied to a feedback winding on the isolation transformer via a power amp built into the conditioner. This power amp can also buck the AC line voltage, so in addition to a clean sine wave at full power with no spikes or hash, the conditioner also regulates line voltage.

    There are several embodiments I've encountered- one that does 1000VA, one that can do about 28 amps continuous and one that can do about 50 amps. Plus there are others that can also set the line frequency. They produce the cleanest sine wave output (0.1% or so THD) which kills most 'high end' conditioners which can't do nearly as well. Heck, most 'high end audio' conditioners are mostly a glorified power strip.

    Its too bad that no-one has stepped up to bat to create a conditioner at this level. So if you want really good conditioning, you have to find one on ebay and have someone refurbish it, since Elgar got out of the conditioner business a long time ago. We've refurbished a few. They are noisy on account of a built in fan which should not be disabled, so they are best set up near your breaker box and wired into the wiring that feeds your audio room.

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