Thread: Cybershaft Owners

I thought I’d start a thread for other cybershaft owners. I ordered mine about a week ago and it’s in customs in Chicago. I’m hoping to have it by thanksgiving.

What have your experiences been as an owner?


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What is that? Sounds like someone getting shafted on a cyber purchase.

Originally Posted by Audioseduction

What is that? Sounds like someone getting shafted on a cyber purchase.

Far from getting the shaft. They’re the most reasonably priced clocks on the market.

http://www.cybershaft.jp


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My experiences have been outstanding musically with several of their products;

- Cybershaft RBOCXO-01 "Dual" Master clock; owned it for 1.5 years,....started off using the Rb side as I've previously owned an Esoteric G-0s,
went to the OCXO side and never came back after about 3 months as like my transition from the Esoteric G-0s to using the G-03x later, the results
of a low phase noise OCXO-based clock are VASTLY superior to any Rb implementation. Rb oscillators, even the best of them such as the ones
from Datum that Esoteric and others utilize have much higher phase noise and therefore injected/derived jitter than their OCXO and
curated OCXO counterparts....

- tested Cybershaft Ultra Premium OP14-level OCXO clock for several months in parallel with owning the above....outstanding results
with this clock

- tested a limited prototype of an OP17-level OCXO clock; even though OP17 was technically a 'better' OCXO module, the overall music
result was not as good as the other 2 clocks...

- tested a limited prototype of a curated OCXO clock for which I cannot yet disclose the spec.: had a new Schottky Barrier Diode-enabled power supply; like the OP14 clock I tested, the results were amazing....P.S.: that power supply is now in the new "Platinum" clock available from Cybershaft. The overall music result is outstanding....

- currently own a custom-built curated OCXO Cybershaft model with several jointly designed features (Cybershaft/myself) that are
being evaluated for future product release and the curated OCXO module that was sourced from a used-parts supplier and
used in the prototype from the last bullet point;
- grounding lug so clock can joint any star-grounded audio solution already in place
- custom base plate with 3-point, 4-point and 5-point mounting point flexibility on the base plate allowing for use of isolation
footers like the Stillpoint UltraSS with UltraBases that I currently utilize,...
- Schottky Barrier Diode-enabled power supply
- experimental new transformer compartment/shielding case internally
- experimental use of solid copper base plate internally
- all this at substantial additional out-of-pocket costs to develop a non-market prototype

I happened to be the first US user of their clocks having stumbled on their products via the HiFiShark sale-ad aggregating site
about 2 years ago; I've been exceptionally happy with the products ever since. What their ultra-low phase noise OCXO clocks
at 10Mhz have done for my system cannot easily be summed up except to say that music has never been so accurately
(i.e. precision) but also musically rendered in my system.

All at a fraction of the cost of other 10Mhz Master Clocks and various high-end word clocks and with world class
customer support from Cybershaft.

Extremely satisfied with their products as a consumer/music-lover.

I just hooked mine up. Too early to tell if there’s a real difference. The clock was still a little cold from sitting in my car.


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Originally Posted by Phishphan

I just honked mine up. Too early to tell if there’s a real difference. The clock was still a little cold from sitting in my car.


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Congratulations on your new clock! Master clocks like this (Oven-stabilized) required 15-30 minutes for their oven-stabilized modules to
reach steady state operation and be ready to provide a quality sync at 10 Mhz. 15 minutes is a good norm though you will notice:

- this is a brand new clock; its power supply, etc...requires break-in just like any audio device, leave it on everyday,...it will get better with time
- each time you power the system and/or the clock off, you should power up the clock first, let it stabilize for 15 minutes (my own metric) and
then power on the unit that is meant to be sync'ed to the clock....
- when powering down your system (vacation, maintenance, etc...), the clock is the last thing to get turned off....

When you powered on the clock cold recently, if you then turned on your gear before the clock had warmed up and reached steady-state,
I'd suggest that you should turn off the unit you have slaved to the clock and then power it back on to get a clean steady-state sync with
your clock after it has reached optimal operating parameters internally...

This is not meant to be a rule book so to speak; just what I have found to work best in the past with an Esoteric G-0s, Esoteric G-03x and
3 more recent clocks from Cybershaft....

So where does one hook an external clock to on a DAC, doesn't that require the DAC manufacturer equip the DAC with a word clock connection like a s/pdif coax, Toslink ?

There are 2 types of clocks;

- Word Clocks: generally 75-ohm in output and put out frequencies that are either 44.1Hz (for audio) or its multiples and 48 Hz (for video...) and its multiples; requires a one-box
player to have a 75-ohm input (generally BNC) to accept "Word Clock" external input. Same it true for separate DACs and transports the obvious benefit is that the DAC and transport
(or in the came of stacks there it's actually 3 boxes, transport, DAC, upsampler) are all synced to the same external high-quality word clock output

- Master Clocks: generally 50-ohm in output and put out 10 Mhz master clocking pulses. The one-box player, or separates (Transport & DAC or the aforementioned 3-box approach) must
have a 50-ohm input on each and be capable of accepting 10 Mhz master clock input. Same benefits as above,...many have found that with Esoteric gear, 10 Mhz is the best sounding
approach but opinions vary and you cannot lose either way...

There's more detail but these are the essential answers to your question...let me know what else you would like to know; very glad to help!

Originally Posted by brodricj

Soulution don't support external clock input on their DAC's, and this is what they have to say about it:

Utmost precision of the clock signal is a must have for a top class D/A-Conversion. Lowest phase-noise behaviour is by far more important than long term frequency stability. Together with experts for highend oscillators we did develop a TCXO which is optimized for this application. It does not run on its first harmonic but on its 3rd overtone. The clock modules work at frequencies around 100MHz, this re-quires extremely fast amplifier stages within the oscillator loop but allows achieving best results regarding phase-noise. Even the best OCXOs or rubidium based oscillators are not able to outperform these specifications. The 760 DAC does have a spate oscillator module for signals based on 44.1 kHz and signals based on 48 kHz. With the synchronisation to an external clock signal the performance of these oscillator modules would be deteriorated. Therefore the 760 does not provide a clock-input. However, external components can be synchronised to the 760 D/A-converters high quality clock signal through its clock-output.

Definitely agree with their stance regarding phase-noise behavior (lowest) being more important than stability measurements of various types. By any chance did they back up their claim with any hard specs regarding the actual performance of their TXCO module?

Originally Posted by brodricj

What is the current state of play with Cybershaft clock products? I have a G02X and was contemplating a Cyberhaft Platinum. I only have a single source with clock input. Would I connect the Cybershaft to the G02X input, or just connect it directly to the source and dispense with the G02X?

Good Day,...you did not mention what source you have backed up by the G-02X as a word clock and what type of cable and connection you are already using;

- what is your source?
- cable type you already have (75-ohm versus 50-ohm) and i.e. are you using the G-02X to output word clock frequencies (44.1 or 48 Hz multiples) or 10 Mhz?

That will help me answer with suggested things you should try...

Originally Posted by brodricj

N01/Mexcel 7NDa6100III/10Mhz.

The 7NDA6100III is a 75-ohm cable and it looks like you are using it on a 10 Mhz output from the G-02X; are you using it on one
of the pure 50-ohm output taps from that clock by any chance or are you configuring 10 Mhz over one of the 75-ohm output
taps (A x 2 or B x 2)?


Unlike the K1, the N-01 is specific in its support for only 50-ohm inputs on its word clock input. This means;


- if you are coming out of the G-02X on a 10 Mhz tap at 50-ohm, then routing over a 75-ohm cable then into
the N-01's clock input BNC (50-ohm), you are incurring potential errors and aberrations of the signal by
mixing 50, 75 and back into 50 ohm


- if you are coming out of the G-02X on a 75-ohm tap in bank Ax2 or Bx2, then you are routing 10 Mhz over
a 75-ohm connection which for the cable you are using (being a 75-ohm cable) is better from the source end
(the clock) forward BUT you are taking it into the N-01 which according to its specs on Esoteric's Japan
and US website, expects a 50-ohm connection...based upon this, you are incurring potential errors and
aberrations of sign by again mixing 75, 75 then into 50-ohm


Whether you can hear all this will depend upon the material in question, your system overall and your desire
for the truest playback to the source. Not all material depicts these differences but most (not all) does in
my experience and that of a couple other guys that have chased this question for a long time.


Cable length being short many say removes this concern (supposedly); while you are not using a very long cable,
and many will tell you that 'it should not make a difference', it actually does.


Therefore my recommendations start with you doing the following regardless whether you keep the G-02X,
sell the G-02X and go for a Cybershaft or use the Cybershaft to back up the G-02X with a proven 10 Mhz
master reference OR you try any of the other recognized 10 Mhz master clocks out there (SRS PERF10,
Esoteric Grandiso G1, the master output of the G-01X or other manufacturers products...;


- get in touch with Esoteric and make sure that what appears on their website, i.e. that the clock input on the N-01
is only and pure 50-ohm in nature


- if Esoteric tells you that connection is pure 50-ohm regardless whether it is receiving a Word Clock signal type
or a pure 10 Mhz, 50-ohm Master Clock input, I'd suggest you start testing Shunyata Alpha or Sigmas CLOCK50
cables OR any other proven 50-ohm pure play cable (there are several very good choices out there at higher
or similar price-points...)


- make sure the cables you test are broken in either by someone else or by you


- try 10 Mhz out of the 50-ohm taps on the G-02X only first, run a lot of material you know well on RBCD, SACD (via external
means) and high-rez material in multiple formats streaming into the N-01 and decide for yourself if all you needed
was a great 50-ohm cable on the G-02X (it's a very good low-phase noise OCXO-based clock) to achieve a noticeable
improvement BEFORE you think about buying any other clock....


- proceed from there trying a Cybershaft, Esoteric or other 10 Mhz master clock on its own


- you could also try one of the above 10 Mhz reference-level master clocks backing your G-02X with a reference 10 Mhz
signal,...the results might surprise you...


If Esoteric tells you the website/specs are not fully detailed and that the clock input on the N -01 can truly auto-sense
50-ohm versus 75-ohm inputs, then I would still advocate the tests above BUT I would also move the 7NDA6100 III
cable to one of the G-02X's 'word clock' outputs and try 10 Mhz there as well as other frequencies (22.xxx Mhz 'MCLK')
comes to mind. See what gives you the best results and then and only then, try to determine how to move into pure 10 Mhz
master clock territory with some of the options above.


I hope this has all made sense and that I've made no errors or inconsitencies along the way; it's a very complicated topic
hidden in a simple question as you can see from the material above and this historical testing background I've late out
below. I'm happy to speak via phone.....I'll say for the record I don't work for or get any kind of special arrangement
with any vendor in this game (Esoteric, Cybershaft, Shunyata, etc....), may day job is something else entirely. I can
answer any questions even more completely via phone. Please let me know how else I can help...




***Please see the 'testing story' below which is probably more detail than you ever bargained for...


TESTING STORY (50 versus 75-ohm, proper cables,"does it matter...?");


I was lucky enough to participate in 4+ month dedicated test with 4 our audiophiles around the world, all with different
equipment stacks (DCS, Esoteric, Aurender, and several other vendors' products) and different clocks (DCS, SRS, Sforzato,
Esoteric, Cybershaft) during which time we had no idea of each others' identity, location or equipment and clock
equipment lists. We were all sent the same, uniform-looking cables with only colored tags on them to tell them
apart. All cables were 1.5 meters in length. The only thing that was different on some of the cables were the use
of 50-ohm versus 75-ohm BNC connectors which are easily discernible as to which is which due to a key visual
difference regarding the dielectric around the center tap. As it turned out though, the vendor lead for the testing
had mixed different cable specs (50 and 75) with different connectors so at the end of the test among other things
we found that there were pure 50-ohm cables, pure 75-ohm cables, 50-ohm cables with 75-ohm connectors and
75-ohm cables with 50-ohm connectors. Clocking also spanned 'word clocks' as well as 'master clocks' and clocks
like the G-02X that has taps for both word clock outputs as well as master clock output frequencies...


As an aside, all testers came from some of the same but also different forums. 1 tester did not participate in any
forum at all. We were given strict instructions not to mention we were testing anything related to cables for
50 or 75-ohm clocking or any other aspect of the test. To remove any potential bias from the equation, the
cables tested were NOT production cables or prototypes contrary to what we thought. They literally were
telecommunications high-speed quality cables from a major OEM rated for 50-ohm or 75-ohm with
BNCs applied as mentioned about also from high-bandwidth telecom cables/parts suppliers. All test cables
were enclosed in simple black tech-flex with no markings at all beyond the color tags.


In each and every case, all testers would summarize their multi-week testing with each cable (long enough to ensure
day 1 through day n and "n+" impressions (i.e. from initial connection through full 2-week burn-in and beyond privately
to the test lead and what material was used to test (RBCD, SACD, streaming, etc...) and the cable color-tagged under test.
We were all asked to test across different source types (and all did...). The surprising thing when all was said and done
5 months later was that the notes of each tester were copy-pasted verbatim into a single doc and sent with only first names
mentioned. Some started the test of the opinion that 50 versus 75 should matter and be adhered to (why else would
high-end vendors like Esoteric go to such lengths to cover this in their markings, manuals, etc... after all?!?) and some
started predisposed to the common forum/vendor-speak of the last year or so,...("as long as you are not using long
cables it does not matter,...they won't operate like a transmission line at short lengths,...").


Summary: without exception all testers' experience was more or less of the form that 50-ohm cables on 50-ohm circuits result
in the best overall sound quality, precision, musicality, etc.....AND using 75-ohm on a 50-ohm circuit resulted in degraded
sound quality, less precise and accurate imaging, bass articulation in particular, etc...Furthermore, using a proper 50-ohm
cable on a 75-ohm circuit actually sounded better in several ways that a proper 75-ohm cable BUT not the reverse config.
There were interesting results with 50-ohm cables with 75-ohm BNCs on a 75-ohm circuit BUT the reverse (75-ohm
cable with 50-ohm connectors on a 50-ohm circuit) was to be avoided due to detrimental effects on the sound, imaging,
etc....In short, through this exhaustive test seemed to prove that despite what even Esoteric is saying today, 2 years after
the discontinuation of an Esoteric 8N-A2000 pure 50-ohm cable which is still one of the finest in the world (during whose
manufacturing & sales years Esoteric was singing a very different tune and advised clients that it DOES matter), it seems
that using the properly rated cable on a given circuit DOES make a difference regardless of length due to the frequency
at which these signals occur.


Footnote: After the testing as well as before had me using various high-end 50 and 75-ohm cables from 3 different manufacturers
including 2 coveted and rare Esoteric-Mexcel 8N-A2000s but also a couple of high-end custom builts and 2 stock builts from
2 different/other manufacturers. In all cases before and also after the above 5 months of testing I admit that I always heard
a difference and preferred the 'match the specs and RTFM approach with cables and gear but in the last 5 months I've had the
good fortune of being able to move to the best 50-ohm cable I've used ever, and it's 75-ohm brother from new entries in
Shunyata's Alpha and Sigma "Clock" line and have decided that 50-ohm very much matters where it's called for and for
me, the best out there currently is the Shunyata "Clock50" cables, particularly the SIGMA level. I've heard other vendors
now are making pure-50 and pure-75 cables that are much tighter to the specs but have no recent experience with them.


I will also say that my last day in testing labs or other 'very specific places' where I had any hands on or desire for that
level of details for engineer-level tests, specs, etc....was in the early 1980s. For audio, and the testing above, the results
I'm talking about come from the ear/hearing level of focusing only the music. For my money, I'll stick with what I heard,
i.e. that where 50-ohm is called for and the same for 75-ohm in clocking or other applications, the best thing to do for
the best and most musical and accurate result is to match cables to connection types and make sure you have components
from manufacturers that also properly implement the spec in each case as this is all for naught if they don't stick to a
tight implementation of 75-ohm versus 50-ohm for each application where it's called for.


All FWIW and IMO...


Mark

Originally Posted by brodricj

I'm using the 50 ohm 10 Mhz tap on the G02X to the N01 with 75 ohm Mexcel BNC. I haven't tried any flavour of G02X word clock outputs, primarily because of my reading on the topic, and secondly because I tend to be lazy with trial and error for myself. I'd be happy to spring $1k on a Cybershaft Platinum to clock my G02X, but $2k on a Clock50 after I've just bought a Mexcel is probably a no at this stage. I don't intend selling the G02X because there is no demand for it in my market, and it's worth more to me than what I might get for it if only as eye candy.
Regarding clocking the G02X to the Cybershaft. My understanding of the G02X is when it detects a clock signal at its input it behaves as a simple distribution amplifier for its multiple outputs and bypasses G02X internal clock. Meaning if you only have one source with clock input there is no point using the G02X because the device is only seeing the clock signal from the Cybershaft.
I've also seen the 75>50 ohm ballasts on the Cybershaft website, but I've no idea whether they are needed in my application or what they cost.
My system has the resolution to easily discern the veracity of any system hardware changes. I have Halcro dm8 pre and dm88 mono, Magico Q3, and a full set of Crystal Cable UD throughout.

An easy way to test if using a pure 50-ohm cable that is of reasonable quality will make a difference on material you listen to that you can hear
is to go to the Pasternack (sp?) website and order a 2-meter pure 50-ohm cable. You can rely on them to sell you one that does not cost much
at all and is guaranteed to be spec-compliant. Also, from what I understand from Cybershaft, that 50->75ohm adapter with terminator is
2000 yen which today looks to be about 17.75 USD so not a lot of money. That might be the best way forward as I know he actually designed
that and tested it in his labs and verified at the National Standards Institute where he also leases test time.

For the G-02X, override all clock circuitry and simply pass through is not something I think is likely as that would diverge from prior Esoteric
designs where the introduction of an external 10 Mhz GPS or otherwise disciplined oscillator of high quality actually causes a bit of PLL-based
circuitry to be replaced by the external reference clock. They may have done something different with the G-02X but I can neither find any
reference to that in the G-03X, G-02, G-02X or any other Esoteric product manuals or online literature including those I have owned in
the past or those I own today (G-0s, G-03X, D-02 and D-03) all of which accept a 10 Mhz input and use it in the way I have mentioned,
i.e. overriding some PLL or other base-lined function with the more accurate 10 Mhz reference clock externally....

Originally Posted by brodricj

http://au.pasternack.com/rf-cable-assembles.html

So the order would be "1m 50 ohm BNC" right?

It's bending my mind considerably that a stock $10 50 ohm BNC might be better than a $2k Mexcel 75 ohm BNC for clocking a N01.

Good Morning,...that was not my assertion at all; it was a reaction to your saying you that you would not spend $2K on a 50-ohm cable at
this point after buying the Mexcel which is completely understandable (and I've been there myself). It was only in the spirit of coming up
with an idea for you to test whether 50-ohm compliance is something that you hear benefit with. Before buying any cable or adapter,
my advice was to contact Esoteric and ensure that what appears in their online materials and product manual regarding the spec on
the BNC clock input being 50-ohm is in fact correct.

I don't know where you live but you may have access to http://www.thecableco.com and their lending library. There is a lower cost quality
alternative to going the Pasternack or other low-cost 50-ohm cable route; that being to borrow a Shunyata Alpha Clock50 cable ($1K) and give it
a try..

Have a great New Year's celebration, we can talk on the 2nd or 3rd if you would like; PM me if interested and let me know your timezone.

Originally Posted by brodricj

I was just checking what I needed to order for the 50 ohm BNC experimentation. I don't mind spending money on a stock BNC cable to experiment with. Before I place an order I need to know exactly what to order because they have so many different types of cables and connectors.

I have no contact at Esoteric so I have no source for answers to technical questions. All I know is what is mentioned in the respective manuals, summarised:

G02X 10 Mhz tap are sine wave 50 ohm
G02X A/B are rectangular wave 75 ohm
N01 clock input is 50 ohm

That leaves the possibility of trying the G02X A output which will match the Mexcel cable, but the N01 end is still 50 ohm.

The N01 manual says "use a BNC coaxial with a 50 ohm or 75 ohm impedance". Why the manual says that, whilst the specifications for the N01 say the clock input is 50 ohm, I have no idea.

I am in Australia. UTC +8 hours.

I am about to leave home for the next 2 days; will research and respond in more detail via PM when I return or if I get time away from family, while I am out of town.

Welcome to the forum Kin, thank you for joining.

Just added this tonight to the Grandioso K1X I’m playing with at home. Oh my. Using a Shunyata Sigma Clock Cable. The difference is not subtle. SMOOOOOOOTH.....OMG, FLESHY FLESHY vocals. So much more 3D. Such ease. The top end of this new Esoteric Master Discrete DAC series is already smooth on top, but this is even smoother! This addition was TOTALLY worth it.

Next up, the Esoteric PS1.

Mike,

That's great news, congratulations! warm up is mandatory and my advice is don't turn it off, period!

Why did you get a Cybershaft and not stay in the Esoteric family with a G-02X or G1?
I was using the top Esoteric clock cable MEXCEL 7N-DA6100mk3 but then I bought a Sigma CLOCK-50 and to my surprise the improvement was immediate and clearly apparent. So I sold the MEXCEL and bought another two Sigma Clock-50.
Cybershaft also sell clock cables, which are quite cheap. You weren't tempted to try a Cybershaft clock cable?

Originally Posted by brodricj

Why did you get a Cybershaft and not stay in the Esoteric family with a G-02X or G1?
I was using the top Esoteric clock cable MEXCEL 7N-DA6100mk3 but then I bought a Sigma CLOCK-50 and to my surprise the improvement was immediate and clearly apparent. So I sold the MEXCEL and bought another two Sigma Clock-50.
Cybershaft also sell clock cables, which are quite cheap. You weren't tempted to try a Cybershaft clock cable?

I’ve researched the clocks and felt this was a top dog to test an external clock. I’ll likely get the Grandioso clock one day and put this one on the N-01XD.

I have the Shunyata Sigma 50 clock cable. If I get a new one, it will be a v2.


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What did they do differently with the v2? It's the exact same cable and connectors but with two polarizer gizmos and not one, right? And v2 is same price as v1? I haven't seen any reports of A/B comparison between CLOCK-50 v1 and v2.

Originally Posted by Mike

I’ve researched the clocks and felt this was a top dog to test an external clock. I’ll likely get the Grandioso clock one day and put this one on the N-01XD.

I have the Shunyata Sigma 50 clock cable. If I get a new one, it will be a v2.


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We had an OP14 which was excellent and really improved the Esoteric that we used with it. We now have the OP21 which is a top performer and quite the bargain compared to some very expensive master clocks. Just FYI, the Venom V14 Digital power cable is a great match for the Cybershaft.

I'm left wondering how close in performance between an Esoteric G1 and Cybershaft OP21. Certainly the price difference is part-way explained by the Esoteric Grandioso chassis. The Grandioso chassis is the best looking in all high-end audio as far as I'm concerned. If I were to buy a OP21 it would be installed out-of sight.

Originally Posted by brodricj

I'm left wondering how close in performance between an Esoteric G1 and Cybershaft OP21. Certainly the price difference is part-way explained by the Esoteric Grandioso chassis. The Grandioso chassis is the best looking in all high-end audio as far as I'm concerned. If I were to buy a OP21 it would be installed out-of sight.

Test results I've seen indicate the OP21 Cybershafts have as good or better phase noise and lower effective jitter measurements.

Esoteric clocks have great chassis and power supplies; there are many positive things to say about them.

The price differential, which I've paid in the past does not for me at least add up when the OP21 I own contributes equivalent and probably superior results.

To me buying the more expensive clock is a vanity or form-fit decision at this point.

Originally Posted by brodricj

What did they do differently with the v2? It's the exact same cable and connectors but with two polarizer gizmos and not one, right? And v2 is same price as v1? I haven't seen any reports of A/B comparison between CLOCK-50 v1 and v2.

The new digital V2s have just come out and I'm in my first 2 weeks of using both a Sigma V2 CLOCK50 and also Sigma V2 AES/EBU as a side note; there will be A/B.

I've owned 2 Sigma CLOCK 50 V1 and 2 Sigma AES V1 cables for about 2 years; they are fantastic.

The V2s do improve on them quite a bit which surprised me as I never have found anything lacking in the V1s.

The V2s are a clear step up though, more details to follow.

Originally Posted by brodricj

Why did you get a Cybershaft and not stay in the Esoteric family with a G-02X or G1?
I was using the top Esoteric clock cable MEXCEL 7N-DA6100mk3 but then I bought a Sigma CLOCK-50 and to my surprise the improvement was immediate and clearly apparent. So I sold the MEXCEL and bought another two Sigma Clock-50.
Cybershaft also sell clock cables, which are quite cheap. You weren't tempted to try a Cybershaft clock cable?

The Cybershaft 50-ohm cables are low-cost, spec-compliant decent cables; nothing to do with Shunyata audiophile grade offerings where you will get vastly
superior results.

Originally Posted by CGabriel

We had an OP14 which was excellent and really improved the Esoteric that we used with it. We now have the OP21 which is a top performer and quite the bargain compared to some very expensive master clocks. Just FYI, the Venom V14 Digital power cable is a great match for the Cybershaft.

Ordering now. Thanks


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This clock is just getting better and better and better. Was really surprised to the improvement it made. Hey, even as a dealer, we paid full retail! Worth every penny.

How does that work, dealer paying full retail? Or do they see you as an end user and not as a reseller?

Originally Posted by brodricj

How does that work, dealer paying full retail? Or do they see you as an end user and not as a reseller?

They don’t have dealers. So, we all pay the full nut. With the PSU it was about $6K. FAR cheaper than I can buy an Esoteric clock for. But, SCAudiophile says the Esoteric clock is super, so I must try it. I was just a little skeptical since I read all the articles on the pro’s and con’s of external clocks. So far, I’m completely smitten with the results. Since it’s buried under my turntable rack (oh the irony), I won’t see it. And I still have the PS1 to add. But for the store, I want to add the Esoteric clock for the K-03XD, N-01XD.

I'd like to know which brings about the bigger improvement of its own, the clock or the PS1. I own an Esoteric clock, but I'm tempted by the Cybershaft.

Originally Posted by brodricj

I'd like to know which brings about the bigger improvement of its own, the clock or the PS1. I own an Esoteric clock, but I'm tempted by the Cybershaft.

My customer who bought Grandioso K1X, Clock, PS1 from me, says clock.

Originally Posted by Mike

They don’t have dealers. So, we all pay the full nut. With the PSU it was about $6K. FAR cheaper than I can buy an Esoteric clock for. But, SCAudiophile says the Esoteric clock is super, so I must try it. I was just a little skeptical since I read all the articles on the pro’s and con’s of external clocks. So far, I’m completely smitten with the results. Since it’s buried under my turntable rack (oh the irony), I won’t see it. And I still have the PS1 to add. But for the store, I want to add the Esoteric clock for the K-03XD, N-01XD.

The Esoteric clock is a fine clock,..know of at least 1 person who had the G1 and found that using the Cybershaft improved it further. He eventually sold the G1 and now just has the 2box Cybershaft OP21.

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Here's a fun test with any SOTA word or masterclock....leave it on 24x7 first and foremost.....break it in of course and really get used to your system for about a month.

Then without shutting anything down or changing anything, reconfigure your DAC, transport, etc..to use their default internal PLL or VXCO clock circuit. Pull the 50 ohm BNC or 75 ohm BNCs if you feel better.

Try to live with it for a single day.

Not only will you learn all the clocking has really been doing for you including the little nuances you did not pick up on while the big strides had your attention,....

You will hate yourself in the morning.

Trust me,...I did it once or twice,...thought someone sucked the life out of the system.

Never again.

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