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  1. #1
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    Biwiring jumpers

    I recently had a listen to two B&W based systems.

    The first one was a lovely system on paper, with full Accuphase electronics and a B&W 805D. I found the system quite harsh and bright, but the system took a dramatic change when we swapped the loudspeaker cable from the upper terminals (the tweeters) to the lower terminals. He was not biwiring the speakers, and was using some aftermarket jumper cables to bridge the terminals.

    Both myself and the owner were very surprised that such a simple change could result in so much difference.

    A few weeks later, another friend invited me over to have a listen to his B&W804D, and wanted some input on how to make the sound warmer and more liquid. I noticed that he had wired the cables the same way, and we got similar results when we moved the cables to the woofer terminals.

    It may not work for everyone, but perhaps B&W owners that are wiring their speakers this way may want to give this a shot and report back ?

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Re: Biwiring jumpers

    You should not have noticed a change like that.

    There must have been a bad connection the first time.
    Listening Room: McIntosh C46, MEN220, MCD500, MR78-Modafferi modified, MPI4, MC602 (2), Pass Labs XVR1 (three-way), tri-amplified Infinity IRS Series V, TailTwister T2X rotator, AtlasSound FMA Rack, dedicated electrical sub-panel, NO TV!

    Living Room: McIntosh C28, MC2300, Revox B226, Tascam CD355, Thorens TD125 MKII w/vacuum platter, Rabco SL-8E, Grace F9-E, McIntosh ML-2C (2) & ML-1C (4) stacked, MQ-107, SAE 2800, Nakamichi Dragon, Tandberg 64X, JL Audio f113 (2), NO TV!

  3. #3
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    Biwiring jumpers

    In theory, I fully agree. I did check the connections and they were fine before we swapped them.
    Eric's System

    Sources : Mac Mini with Pure Music 2.0, Cary CD 500, Calyx Femto DAC, Pro-ject 2-Xperience Acryl with Sumiko Blackbird HOMC. Amplification : Conrad Johnson GAT, Conrad Johnson ART Monoblocks, Graham Slee Reflex M Phono Stage. Speakers : Focal Diablo Utopia, JL Audio E112 sub. Cabling : Cardas, AET, Acoustic Revive, Acrolink, Wireworld.

  4. #4
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    Re: Biwiring jumpers

    Quote Originally Posted by watchdog View Post
    I recently had a listen to two B&W based systems.

    The first one was a lovely system on paper, with full Accuphase electronics and a B&W 805D. I found the system quite harsh and bright, but the system took a dramatic change when we swapped the loudspeaker cable from the upper terminals (the tweeters) to the lower terminals. He was not biwiring the speakers, and was using some aftermarket jumper cables to bridge the terminals.

    Both myself and the owner were very surprised that such a simple change could result in so much difference.

    A few weeks later, another friend invited me over to have a listen to his B&W804D, and wanted some input on how to make the sound warmer and more liquid. I noticed that he had wired the cables the same way, and we got similar results when we moved the cables to the woofer terminals.

    It may not work for everyone, but perhaps B&W owners that are wiring their speakers this way may want to give this a shot and report back ?
    I'm not surprised at all on the results. When you using a single wire on bi-wire post it always sounds fuller on woofer terminals. You will find the different sounds again once you put the - on the bottom and + to the top terminal.

    I have the PMC IB2i with tri -wiring terminals and I played with them a lot ....What a different sounds I get on each terminal connections...wow.

    It's all fun to play with

    P.S: Did you change the factory jumpers to Pure copper or Pure silver jumpers ? It will surprise you again with the sound change.
    Paul

  5. #5
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    Re: Biwiring jumpers

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueMcIntosh View Post
    I'm not surprised at all on the results. When you using a single wire on bi-wire post it always sounds fuller on woofer terminals. You will find the different sounds again once you put the - on the bottom and + to the top terminal.

    Yes, I've heard that method in the past and it seems to hit a nice balance between too top heavy and too bottom heavy. No idea (electrically) why moving these wires should make any difference at all, let alone bi-wiring. But I do it and it does improve the sound.
    Vine, Vide, Velcro - I came, I saw, I stuck around.

  6. #6
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    Re: Biwiring jumpers

    BlueMcIntosh,

    The factory supplied jumpers are not the usual brass links but copper wires with spades on one end, and bananas on the other. The 805D owner had 2 different sets of after market jumpers made to order - there was a difference on each, but not as dramatic as moving from the upper terminals to lower terminals.

  7. #7

    Re: Biwiring jumpers





    ARC4LIFE
    Caribbean Distributor of
    ARC / Sonus Faber / Wadia / Wilson / VAC / Soulution / Nordost / Shunyata / Stillpoints
    Kuzma / Focal / Resonessence Labs / ARIA / KRELL / Pro-Ject...

  8. #8

    Re: Biwiring jumpers

    Hi, Try the Red Speaker cable Hot + to the Bottom Woofer input--jumper to the +Tweeter input

    The Black Speaker cable - to the Top- Tweeter input--jumper to the Bottom - Woofer input

    B

  9. #9

    Re: Biwiring jumpers

    interesting, i will try this on my 800D and see what i think before my bi-wires arrive

  10. #10

    Re: Biwiring jumpers

    Interesting...a few weeks ago, i pulled out an old pair of TA Ref jumpers from when i owned SF Guarneris. I used them in place of the solid copper buss for my Wilson X1s...smoother, but lost detail and realism thru dynamic attack. i then used the jumpers IN ADDITION to the copper buss...wow! best of both worlds...and extremely dextrous bass with greater clarity and ability to delineate syncopated deep house bath rhythm. But the treble was a bit rolled off...

    By coincidence, my local Focal Dealer had just ordered TA Ref XL jumpers (5 sets) to replace all the stock jumpers that come with the Grande Utopia EM...they now demonstrate the speaker with them. I borrowed the XL jumper and found the treble more open.

    Ultimately, i ordered the TA Ref MM (there is no Opus since there is no network box on jumper and the cable part is the same)...and am extremely happy while it settles into the system.
    Speaker: Wilson Audio XLF + Velodyne DD18+
    Source: Zanden 4-Box Digital
    Amp: Robert Koda K15EX + Gryphon Mephisto Stereo
    __________________________________


    Cable: TA Opus (Gen5) + Sablon Audio Prince (Orange)
    Power: 7 Dedicated Lines Furutech + Torus AVR 16 + Burmester 948 + NordostQX4
    Isolation: Under: SRA+HRS+Stillpoints+Auralex Top: HRS+Artesania+Entreq+EAT+90kg Mass
    Ground/Shield: Tripoint Troy Sig & Thor + Entreq Atlantis / Receivus +Everest+Wrap
    Room/Tube: Stillpoints Apertures / Amperex + Mullard
    Headphone Setup: Sennheiser 650 + Arcam rHead + Apogee Groove

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Biwiring jumpers

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