Thread: Bradentan Motorsports Park Drag Racing

About a week ago I was participating in a private track rental at BMP in Bradenton, FL titled "Track Whores Drag Radial/Slick Tire Track Rental 12/18/16" They hired pro photographers for the event. Here are a few images of my Mustang GT. Not a good day for drag racing as it was hot & humid with a 10+ headwinds. It was 87 degrees. After only 3 runs I managed a 11.1. If it was cooler and no headwinds I would have been in the mid 10s.

Nice! I would have thought you'd be down in the mid-10's actually.

I haven't been to that track in years! Last time I was there was back in '97 to '98, running my little turbo'd '96 Nissan 200SX SE-R. The best I ran was a 11.7 @ 117 mph on 17" low profile street tires. Very easy numbers to remember too I might add.

Can you tell us more details about engine, suspension & mods?
Gorgeous !

Originally Posted by a.wayne

11.7 in 96 on street tires ..... fantastic imaging i bet ....

???

It was my 3rd and last run for the day. 11.1 @ 124MPH 60' 1.76. As you can see my 60' still stinks. This is only the 2nd time I took it to the tracks. This was on Nitto 555R 305/35R20 drag radials. If I was on slacks I would have better 60' times.

Current Mods List:

Procharger D1SC kit, Stage 2
Procharger Red Race Valve
Turbosmart Wastegate Comp-Gate 40
JMS Fuelmax System
Injector Dynamics ID 1000 Injectors
NGK 7 Iridium Sparkplugs
Mustang GT Dual Valve Catch Can for Procharger Kits by UPR
MMR Billet Oil Pump Gears
MMR Billet Timing Chain Gear
ATI Harmonic Balancer Super Damper
160 Degree Thermostat
BMR Lowering Springs (Performance)
BMR Cradle Lock Out
BMR Billet Aluminum Vertical Links - Spherical Bushings
BMR Drive Shaft Loop
Viking Performance Crusader Double Adjustable Rear Shock
Driveshaft Shop DSS 1 Piece Aluminum Driveshaft
Ford Racing Heavy Duty Half Shaft Axles
BMR Driveshaft Loop
Full American Racing Exhaust system 1 7/8 Long Tube Headers, 3" Off Road X Pipe and Pure Thunder mufflers (No Cats)
Wheels: Vossen CV3-R Gloss Graphite Front 20X9 - Rear 20X10.5
Tires: Front - Pirelli P Zero 265/35R20 & Rear Nitto 555R 305/35R20
Custom 6 Piston Brembo Front Brakes with 15" Slotted Rotors
GT350R Leather And Alcantara Steering Wheel
Paddle Shifter Extensions (Black)
RTR Upper & Lower Grille
Anderson Composites Carbon Fiber Radiator Cover
Trufiber Carbon Fiber Engine Cover
Trufiber Carbon Fiber Fuse Box Cover
Trufiber Carbon Fiber Rear Spoiler with Gurney Flap

My 2nd run for the day was a big block! He got me on the launch but I reeled him in and took the win. Sorry for the shaking. My wife was shooting.

George, nice pics car looks great ! As for your poor 60' times, I'll bet money as much as you want to put the blame on the tires your weight transfer (i.e. shocks / suspension) are as much to blame.

Originally Posted by Mikado463

George, nice pics car looks great ! As for your poor 60' times, I'll bet money as much as you want to put the blame on the tires your weight transfer (i.e. shocks / suspension) are as much to blame.

Thanks! Installed adjustable rear shocks just before the race. So far only 6 runs in the car. I'm just a casual drag racer so it won't be too many times I go during the year. I still need practice and get to know the car.

Originally Posted by Audioseduction

Thanks! Installed adjustable rear shocks just before the race. So far only 6 runs in the car. I'm just a casual drag racer so it won't be too many times I go during the year. I still need practice and get to know the car.

Also......stick or auto ?

assuming auto, how 'loose' is your converter ? what's your stall speed ? do you footbrake to the halfway point of your stall speed ?

Originally Posted by Mikado463

Also......stick or auto ?

assuming auto, how 'loose' is your converter ? what's your stall speed ? do you footbrake to the halfway point of your stall speed ?

It's an auto 6 speed. Stock converter. Best so far is at 1000rpms.

Originally Posted by Audioseduction

It's an auto 6 speed. Stock converter. Best so far is at 1000rpms.

George, did you try foot baking it closer to 1500 rpm ? My reason for asking is that buy doing so it gets you closer to the stall speed of your converter and thus you get less of a 'run' at your converter, not a good thing for solid / consistent launches and 60' times.

Originally Posted by Mikado463

George, did you try foot baking it closer to 1500 rpm ? My reason for asking is that buy doing so it gets you closer to the stall speed of your converter and thus you get less of a 'run' at your converter, not a good thing for solid / consistent launches and 60' times.

No, 1000 rpm is the highest I've done so far. I will try that the next time I race.

https://youtu.be/aIwUO2stSe4


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

the funny thing is Mike neither one of them could cut a decent lite to save their ass, where were these kind of misfits when I was seriously racing !

I would say BS on the Mustang having 800WHP. More like 700. Autos are also faster. They may need a driver mod for the Mustang.

Just about all vehicles allow this up to a point. Has nothing to due with faulty electronics or an unsafe vehicle. Also, not sure which Mustangs have it and which don't, but some of them come with a line lock (IOW, allows you to lock up the front brakes and keep the rear ones free to do a burnout). Which also means you're holding the brake pedal and throttle at the same time.

Originally Posted by a.wayne

The electronics should not allow you to brake and press the accelerator at the same time , if it does you may want to sell and walk away for safety reasons ..

Yes, I have electronic line lock. I disable Fords AdvanceTrac (Advance Traction Control System) with a switch and also switch the car to track mode.

AdvanceTrac® with RSC® is Ford's premium electronic stability system that improves vehicle control on all driving surfaces, including snow, ice, gravel, rain-covered roads, and dry pavement. ... Ford AdvanceTrac® with Roll Stability Control (RSC®)

Originally Posted by chops

but some of them come with a line lock (IOW, allows you to lock up the front brakes and keep the rear ones free to do a burnout). Which also means you're holding the brake pedal and throttle at the same time.

Charles, close but not quite .........line lock is activated by first depressing the brake pedal, then the line lock button at which time you release the brake pedal. By doing this and the line lock button still pressed only the front brakes remain applied. Do your burnout, release line lock button and glide out of the water box.

Double post...

Ever hear of someone "power braking" their car? That means they're holding the brake and throttle at the same time. That's how the majority of cars do burnouts. The ones that don't either don't have enough horsepower to do it, or like my 370Z, is programmed NOT to do it. Although, with the current tuner I have on my car, that feature is deactivated in one of the maps IF I want it. And thanks to said tuner, I now also have variable launch control and variable torque control.

Originally Posted by a.wayne

Then it overrides the safety protocol when in line lock mode then , as all ETC protocols allows an automatic safety shut down if ETC is wideopen and Brakes on , its even worse now after toyota issues a few years back, theirs was really due to overstacks by the inadequate ecu...

I will make an educated guess and say its part of the launch control schema and allows ETC operation on the brakes based on Wheel speed data ..


Regards

I'm not sure how it works in the Mustang. I just know that it has it. In the RX-7 drag car I used to work on and drive, it had both a line lock and trans brake, both controlled by buttons on the steering wheel.

Originally Posted by Mikado463

Charles, close but not quite .........line lock is activated by first depressing the brake pedal, then the line lock button at which time you release the brake pedal. By doing this and the line lock button still pressed only the front brakes remain applied. Do your burnout, release line lock button and glide out of the water box.

Originally Posted by chops

Ever hear of someone "power braking" their car? That means they're holding the brake and throttle at the same time. That's how the majority of cars do burnouts.

............ and that's why 'real' drag racers use a line lock

I'm not sure how it works in the Mustang. I just know that it has it. In the RX-7 drag car I used to work on and drive, it had both a line lock and trans brake, both controlled by buttons on the steering wheel.

no Charles, I was merely trying to point out 'how' line lock worked, regardless of the vehicle. Seeing that you had raced one equipped with it I assume you knew that. As for the trans brake that's a whole different class than footbrake cars, set the t-brake, mash the gas and let the button go on the third yellow !